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#1
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1975 230.4 rear main seal
Any way to seal the rear crank seal from outside? I mean without dropping the crank?
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#2
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nope
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#3
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X2. It's a "rope" type seal. I've never seen one go bad.
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#4
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I have seen them start to leak a small amount oil...
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#5
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And, there is a specific procedure to tighten the pinion nut, after the seal is installed.
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner 1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone 1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car) 1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old |
#6
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You can possibly change the bottom portion of the rope seal without dropping the crank. I have heard of this done on occasion. I do not know if you can get your oil pan off on your model with the engine in the car though. Only fifty fifty chance it will lessen your problem perhaps though.
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#7
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Quote:
The PINION nut ?????
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A Dalton |
#8
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Quit causing trouble Arthur! I was waiting to see where THAT went!
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#9
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I think he is referring to the pinion shaft on the differential when one has to remove the pinion flange when doing pumpkin seal....or at least that would fit his posting......
?????????????
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A Dalton |
#10
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This thread makes me miss my old 76 230.4 - may it rust, I mean rest in peace. What kind of shape is the body on your 230 in ?
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