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#1
06-20-2009, 02:34 AM
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Need Some Numbers for W108 Timing
Hi all, I'm new to the world of Mercs and attempting to get my 1970 280 SE 6 cylinder Auto back to perfect order. I'm yet to get myself a workshop manual for the car and I'm struggling to find data on some settings. I'm wondering if anyone can give me some numbers for spark plug gap, points gap and ignition timing. I'd like to know factory numbers as well as any proven changes that anyone has made. Thanks.
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#2
06-22-2009, 06:53 PM
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130 engine
the plugs at .80 mm points at .35 and timing at 11' BTDC should get you going. The valves are intake .10mm and exhaust .20mm.
A crow foot wrench will help adjust the valves. A pertronix ignitor kit will help get rid of the points and condencor . i used it for many years reliabily in my 280S . regards mak
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#3
06-23-2009, 08:50 PM
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You can post key words in the search topic area and get lot's of info around the questions you might have.
I like the Pertronix unit because it is easy to install. I bought mine from Summit racing-be sure to get the correct coil for the unit you might use. Also, do not leave the ignition switch on for any length of time if you end up with the Pertronix. I hope you enjoy your 280s. This forum has plenty to offer...  Turner
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#5
10-02-2012, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Miguel
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#6
10-02-2012, 02:53 PM
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You don't want to leave the car in the "run" position (#2) because the Pertronix unit is a "Hall Effect" switching magnet. It has an electrical charge running to the sensor. If the magnet happens to be in the "closed" position the potential for overheating the sensor is there. When the car is running then the magnetic switch opens AND closes which eliminates the overheat condition.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now
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#8
06-16-2018, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
If setting by dwell angle: w/ transistorized ignition = 34-40* w/o ti = 39-42* If setting point gap - .35mm(.014")
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#10
06-16-2018, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
If the wire from the distributor goes to a finned oval aluminum box, it is TI. If the wire goes directly to the coil, no TI.
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#12
06-16-2018, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
I've always gone by which distributor you have. Cast iron is 39 - 42 and aluminium is usually around 30 degrees. Each distributor type has completely different point sets and very different dwell angles. I set timing to 38 degrees full advance with all vacuum lines in place. You may be able to run more or need less if you hear pinging.
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#13
06-18-2018, 11:06 PM
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I have an alloy 003 distributor. Think I may have discovered my ignition issue. Pelican parts specs BPR6ES plugs for my car, but I have a transistorized ignition. It hasn’t run properly since I did a tune up last year with the BPR6ES PLUGS, and I think that might be part of the problem.
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#14
06-18-2018, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
BP R 6ES > The "R"(=resistor), is the problem. If your car is equipped with OEM type connectors at the spark plugs, those connectors contain the required resistance for RFI suppression. Additional resistance in the plugs is too much.
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#15
06-19-2018, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
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Linear Mode
