|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
w108 temp gauge help
I'm in the process of taking apart the dash on my 280 SEL, and I'm having some trouble getting the gauge cluster out. I've read all the posts about the engine temp gauge and the capillary tube connection thing and that I need to remove the sender from the engine connection and then thread it through the firewall. I'm having a hard time unscrewing the sender from its connection to the cylinder head and wanted to make sure I doing this right. There seems to be two bolts threaded into each other, one a 14mm bolt and the other a 19mm bolt. I can't for the life of me get the 14 mm to loosen, almost impossible to even get a combo or a flare nut wrench down in there. Are these two bolts welded together, do I need to loosen the larger 19mm bolt? Is there a way to remove the gauge from the cluster and leave it still attached to the engine? I only need the speedometer out, I'm having the odometer fixed. Any advice?
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Don't quote me on this, but I don't think the 4.5L V8 has the capillary tube water temp gauge. I pulled a 108 speedo about 4-5 years ago (I know that's been a long time) and I don't think we disconnected a capillary tube on the engine. I know the older engines do, like in my '66 230S.
Thanks David
__________________
_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
He doesn't have a 4.5..
..You must take the cap bulb off at the engine....try some BP Blaster . Do not take it off at the gauge . The 14mm fitting unscrews.
__________________
A Dalton |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Just to remove the speedometer you shouldn't have to disconnect the temp sender from the engine. I had my dash out a month or so ago to clean the inside of the glass on the cluster and replace all of the light bulbs. The hardest part of the job is getting the large white plastic knob off that holds the cluster in place. Once you have that off you simply pull the cluster towards you. I would recommend you place some rags and/or blue tape on the top of the steering column to protect it before you pull the cluster. Once you have the cluster pulled away a few inches you will have to unscrew the speedometer cable and undo the oil pressure gauge line, use two wrenches for that, this should give you enough room to tilt the cluster down on top of the steering column to gain better access to the screws that hold the speedometer head. there should be enough excess temp sender tube inside the dash to allow you to lay the cluster on top of the steering column.
If you have a column shift (automatic transmission) be careful of the shift indicator mechanism. If you want to pull the entire cluster out for other servicing just remove the screws that hold the indicator to the back of the cluster. You would then remove the screws for the "circuit board" and leave the temp gauge/circuit board laying on top of the steering column. Like I said the hardest part is removing the knob that holds the cluster in place, when I was in the garage trying to get the knob off, (garage door closed) laying on my back, forcing my arm up the the lower section of the dash to reach the knob, I had this horrible thought of getting my arm stuck up there and not being able to get it back out. Needless to say when I put it all back together I made sure to have my phone next to me when I was putting the knob back in place. My cuts and scratches have finally healed now. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I'm planning to pull my 108's cluster to get at my spotty ignition switch in the near future. As far as access goes, I believe the parking brake handle can be unscrewed and moved to the side to get a little more space in there.
I pulled the dash wood out for refinishing a few years ago, and recall getting pretty scratched up in the process. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
I removed the parking brake handle, that's a given, along with the under dash panel, etc. The pi$$er is getting to that white plastic knob.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
it is 4.5 L
I do have the 4.5 L M117 engine. The line from the temp gauge is a thin metal braided line with rubber insulation on the outside, which i'm pretty sure is the capillary tube filled with mercury I've heard. I'll try just removing the circuit board and getting it out that way.
Reaching the nut was a major pain in the ass, considering you can't even see up there in the first place to know what you are looking for. I accidentally removed a few light bulbs and unscrewed the clock in the process. Mine didn't have the plastic nut, just a small bolt and washer, which made it even harder. never thought i was claustrophibic until last weekend when I was flat on my back with my arm wedged up there. let you all know if I do get it out. Thanks, Jamie 1972 280 SEL 4.5L |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|