M130 valve adjustment - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jerryyoung · #1 08-23-2009, 10:22 PM

I am in the process of replacing the valve stem seals (finished) and adjusting the valves. My question is, are the adjusting studs supposed to be so tight you can't turn them with a cheater bar on a 17mm wrench? Is there some better way to turn the studs? SIR tools shows an "s" extension but no 17mm crows foot socket. Any suggestions are welcome. The car is a 1971 280SE four door sedan.
Thanks
Jerry

Chas H · #2 08-23-2009, 10:29 PM

They can get really stuck. I remove the rocker and use a deep socket and a breaker bar to work the adjuster loose or remove the whole adjuster to a vise where heat can be applied to loosen it.

jerryyoung · #3 08-23-2009, 10:41 PM

Thanks for the info, after I posted I looked at Fastlane's tool section and found a "s" extension and 17mm crows foot socket. I'll order those tomorrow as I need them to get around the fuel lines anyway.
Jerry

barry123400 · #4 08-24-2009, 07:59 PM

In the fifties and sixties the interference fit on the valve adjusters would move pretty easy. So in service they did move and you burnt exhaust valves if you did not keep on top of valve adjustments.

Mercedes cure was to increase the interference fit. The last few gas engines of the mechanical lifter type i found myself popping rocker arms and using a socket and power bar on a lot of the adjusters.

230/8 · #5 08-25-2009, 10:45 AM

Check with these folks for the proper wrench:

http://www.samstagsales.com/

The ball pins are very tight to ensure they keep the adjustment secure. You need an offset wrench that places the torque squarely over the center line of the ball pin while adjusting the clearance. A crow's foot can be made to work but you risk rounding off the ball pin head or splitting the wrench. Usually the only way a crow's foot will work is if the ball pins are too loose and should be replaced. Samstag has the proper Hazet-style wrenches for this job.