1970 250CE (european) Transmission H.E.L.P. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JiveTurkey · #16 09-28-2009, 08:48 AM

Haha, thanks guys. She's actually my third Mercedes, but my first two were super clunkers, but I busted my ass to clean them up. The first was a '97 C280 with interstellar mileage and a head gasket that looked like a sponge. The second was an '01 C320 with more electrical problems than a Circuit City in New Orleans circa august '05. Three Mass Airflow Sensors in 6 months, need I say more? So I think the Mercedes Gods finally decided to show me a little love.
The creepy thing... The last four of her vin is 1988, and she was built in July, I bought her sight unseen from 2,000 miles away. I as born in July '88. Some things are just meant to be.

Sidenote, I crawled underneath the transmission last night and located that Pressure control rod. Anyone have any tips on how many turns I should lengthen it?

As of right now... When left in Drive she always starts out in second gear from a stop, the 2-3 occurs at roughly 3000rpm (I'm guessing here) and the 3-4 upshift occurs at probably 2000rpm with both shifts occuring that said rpm range regardless of where I have the throttle positioned. If I leave her in S, she still starts out in second gear, but the 2-3 upshift varies (appropriately) depending on where I have the throttle and will stretch to about 6,000RPM if I keep the pedal down. I havent checked the kickdown switch for electricity because my 12v test light has vanished. I'll pick up another one at advance autoparts when I have the chance.

Thanks again for all your help guys.

Mike D · #17 09-28-2009, 09:47 AM

I'm not familiar with the M130 set-up but on the M110 the procedure goes; Disconnect the ball linkage at the transmission bellcrank (the one mounted on the intake or engine block). The rod leading to the transmission should be full "back". Adjust the accellerator linkage to a "touch" fit (the ball should be positioned directly above the receptacle) and you should be good to go. You should only have to adjust the tranny rod when you don't have enough adjustment in the acc. linkage.

Starting out in second is correct. 2-3 at about 3K is a little high but not much. 4th at 2K is pretty good.

The modulator affects the "harshness" of the shifts and not really the timing.

JiveTurkey · #18 09-30-2009, 08:51 AM

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to continue posting in this thread with all my 250CE related problems (there's going to be a lot of them lol)

So yesterday...... I was cruising along at about 80kph and my speedometer apparently took umbrage at this. It started making a REALLY loud WHIRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR noise. I pulled over immediately and disconnected it.
Helpful hint, instead of doing what the haynes manual says (removing the panel under the dash on the drivers side and worming your arm up to disconnect the speedo cable) I found an alternate method. You know the speaker that sits top dead center on the dash? Well mine gave up the ghost a long time ago, and the plastic cover also melted into oblivion along with it. So I popped the metal cover off and viola, instant access to the speedometer cable.

Anyway, I drove (slowly) and felt the output tip of the cable, it was functioning appropriately, and it wasn't rounded off. When I reconnected the cable the same horrible noise came right back. I disconnected it again. Any thoughts? Is it possible to replace just the VDO speedometer? or do I have to replace the whole instrument cluster? Mine is the type without the rev counter, and it's kept in place by a rubber gasket.

Mike D · #19 09-30-2009, 09:12 AM

You can have the VDO speedos rebuilt. Worn bushings are a pretty common problem on all old cars. I've heard of using a SMALL drop of transmission fluid placed inside the cable receptacle on the speedo head curing the problem for a time. Worth a try. Just don't go overboard with the amount.

The clusters come apart (an excellent time to replace all the illumination bulbs whether they need it or not) and all the gauges can be replaced.

JiveTurkey · #20 09-30-2009, 09:43 AM

Good to know, I'm gonna try putting a drop of dextron III in there and reconnecting the speedo cable before I head to my accounting class this morning. Unfortunately, I have the capillary type temp guage, so taking the cluster completely out means draining the cooling system

but I'll let you know if the tranny fluid works as a temp fix. You're the best Mike!

alabbasi · #21 09-30-2009, 09:45 AM

The 250CE should have a 2.5 liter M114 engine. I think the 250C's had the larger M130 engines with the 2.8.

mak · #22 09-30-2009, 11:43 AM

you may need to shorten the control rod by a couple of turns to get a adjustment , as the shifting points will go up ,
the control rod will be obvious when you look under the car and see a rod and lever on opposite side to the transmission shift linkage .
i had this transmission in 280s 108/euro.
mak

JiveTurkey · #23 10-01-2009, 11:25 AM

Thanks for the input on the transmission Mak. I'm going to give your advice a shot either today or tomorrow and see if I can get the shift points where I want them. Two more questions for you. (stupid question) Do I need to disconnect the balljointed rod before adjusting it? Does the control rod also control when kickdown occurs?

Part II- Speedometer
The dextron III didn't work, so I'm just driving around with my speedo cable disconnected (best excuse ever to get out of a ticket

) Anyone have any ideas on who I should contact to have a VDO speedometer rebuilt? Or can I do it myself?

ctaylor738 · #24 10-01-2009, 01:20 PM

I suggest Al Lieffring (alan@lieffring.com, 706 310 1589. He did a great presentation on instruments at Pagoda University this summer.

rs899 · #25 10-01-2009, 03:45 PM

On the speedometer, is it possible you had it pulled to tightly towards the speedo or the tranny? Sometimes when that happens the inner wire binds against the sheath casing a ruckus. Might check that first.

Mark DiSilvestro · #26 10-01-2009, 05:56 PM

On my carbed '72 250 and 250C, there's a 2-piece bellcrank below the intake-exhaust manifolds, just behind the alternator, that has a slot & screw adjustment for the shift-control rod. Not sure if the injected version has this but look for it. It could be easier than crawling underneath for adjustment.

Try another drop of ATF, but make sure it gets in between the speedometer-shaft and it's bronze bushing - not down the square center-hole for the cable.

Happy Motoring, Mark

JiveTurkey · #27 10-01-2009, 10:04 PM

Thanks for the additional assists guys. I'm going to essentially try everything suggested for the speedo. First I'll reattach it, this time not as snug after hitting the suggested areas with DEX III. If that doesn't cure it I'll give Mr. Lieffring a call and take it from there.

Tomorrow is going to be my day where I can spend all day tinkering with my car. I'll check for the bellcrank slot/screw arrangement as that would be MUCH easier than going in from underneath and disconnecting the rod. If it's absent I'll preform upsidown mercedes surgery and let you guys know how it goes.

cth350 · #28 10-03-2009, 10:25 AM

Hmmm. Don't mess with the trans just yet. At least not until you address problem #2 from your first post. The FI system is dependent on vacuum, so is the transmission's ability to shift.

Start with the basics, the real basic basics. Prove to yourself that they're right.
- Careful visual inspection of all hoses, lines and linkages
- Ignition to spec (dwell, timing, wire resistance)
- Fuel pressure to spec
- The diagnostic sequence for a D-jet fuel system
- CO% to spec

The adjustment bolt mentioned on the side of the trans is on the passenger side. Loosen the lock nut and then turn the headless bolt in half a turn and retighten the lock nut. This adjustment is recommended for any car that seems very slow to get into reverse. It won't do much for forwarg gear problems.

The rod from the throttle back to the trans adjusts from the throttle end. Rod length is the adjustable parameter. However, I'd suspect a bent linkage before a length problem. Start at the accelerator pedal and follow the linkage through the firewall and around the motor, through the intake and so on until you reach the trans. Somewhere along the way is a pivot that might be out of wack, or a place where two rods might have been swapped on their mounts to mess with their relative positions.

-CTH

JiveTurkey · #29 10-09-2009, 10:24 PM

I took some neat pictures today, the SL600 and E320 BlueTec belong to a relative, we had a Mercedes Fest today. Enjoy!

JiveTurkey · #30 10-12-2009, 01:30 PM

Guess who found 110 octane leaded gas at $4.00 a gallon the other day!! Also, is there a specific power steering fluid I should be using?

Updates;
-fuel injection system is operating properly
-found someone with a CO meter, exhaust gases are good
-none of the above tricks worked on the speedometer (IE; ATF or not tightening the cable all the way)

I havent messed with the trans at all yet. (never EVER admit to anyone that you're a "weekend mechanic" because THIS is what happens.)