Leaking Fuel Pump Suspicion
 

Does anyone have a good plunger type mechanical fuel pump for the M110.922. Where to wire an electrical fuel pump for it to run only when the engine is running and on start?

I still have on my plans to megasquirt it using a TBI throttle body, just havent got the money yet, also the head need some work since is burning some oil due to worn valve guides, i believe because the fuel pump issue has been running for so long, i have only put 6000 km into the car since buying it (its an euro), it even had some mice living on the engine compartment.

Car also has a leak on the rear main seal, Do you need to remove the engine to solve this uh? I am just waiting because i have to repair this leaking seal i as well want to do some job on the clutch. Where to find good prices on the clutch plate and disc.

Does anyone have had issues with leaking fuel pump that can help me with this?

All M110 with Solex 4A1 Carb fuel pumps are mechanical, they're sealed typed pumps and once they're leaking oil or gas simply throw it away and buy a new pump.Unlike M121, early M115 and M180 engines, their fuel pumps are rebuild-able(changing only the diaphragm,small bronze filter and six screws with the kit).

D-Jet and K-Jet engines are have electrical fuel pump. In the Philippines, they're 2 brands of pumps, PIERBURG and VAICO. Buy only the PIERBURG b/c VAICO pumps are not good, it lasted in my 280S for 6 months!!!:mad: some guys here converted their orig. pumps to electrical but rated only 3-5 PSI of pressure otherwise it'll flood your carb.

that Megasquirt idea is good but some $$$ and sweat to make it work but in return, you get excellent fuel mileage,more HP,Torque and drivability. Is there a billet throttle body to fit in a M110's intake manifold? like what we see in most chevy,ford and chrysler engines with multi-port EFI with throttle body fuel systems.

i would like to know where to find a switched electrical signal to wire the positive of an electric fuel pump

Use a relay to power the pump from the battery/starter feed. Use the ignition feed from the input side of the ballast resistor to trigger the relay. Don't worry about the "start" circuit. You will have enough gas in the float bowl to start the car. The relay will activate the pump when the key is turned to the "run" (#2) position.

If you feel like incorporating a further fail safe, then install a pressure switch at the oil filter and use it to either enable the relay or use it as a ground for the relay. Either way it is simply triggering the voltage and is not carrying the current.