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  #1  
Old 12-03-2009, 11:16 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Worth TX
Posts: 151
722.0 transmission overhaul (so far)

Got the transmission reassembled and installed, but it had no second gear on the test drive. Hopefully the unit won't have to come out again. I came up with a band and clutch application chart based on playing around with the gear train from a spare transmission. Here's what I came up with:

band/clutch
R B1 B2 K1 K2

REV ON OFF OFF OFF OFF
D1 OFF OFF ON OFF OFF
D2 OFF OFF OFF ON OFF
D3 OFF OFF OFF ON ON

Sorry, I can't seem to get the columns to align in the table above for some reason.

Note that B1 never turns on. This band is used for engine braking in the manual low ranges (S and L). It holds the inner race of the one way clutch so it can't overrun on deceleration. The band/clutch designations are taken from the illustrations on EPC.

REV band holds front planet carrier
B1 holds one way clutch inner race
B2 holds rear sun gear
K1 holds front carrier and sun gear together
K2 holds rear ring gear and sun gear together

Most likely I have no K1 apply. This is likely due to a problem with the valve body or the supply tubes in the center support. I air tested the clutches before installation, and they tested OK. Once I get the transmission operating normally, I'll work on doing the write up of the overhaul I did with over 100 pictures.

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Erich Loepke
2010 Ford Focus
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  #2  
Old 12-03-2009, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
Bravo!

This forum sorely needs transmission help...bring on the pix...

Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2009, 06:02 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Worth TX
Posts: 151
It's going to be a while, because the transmission suffered internal damage and will have to come out again. I have enough spare parts from the second transmission that I have here. I'm going to try to locate a third parts transmission, so I can get a full handle on what's exactly in the valve body now that I know how to get it apart without springs and check balls flying everywhere. I've found a definite sequence to disassembling the valve body. I can see about getting pictures of check ball, spring, and valve locations, but I've already found that there are significant differences in valve bodies throughout the years. My old one had one more check ball than the one in the parts unit (it was from a 1977 car), and the separator plate was different as well.
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2009, 06:34 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
These guys can probably help you if you need parts:

http://www.jie.com/Mercedes/mercedes_benz_transmissions.htm

I have an ATSG manual for the 722.1xx - not sure how close they are but if you need some scans let me know.

Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2009, 07:46 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Worth TX
Posts: 151
rs899:

The 722.1 transmission has many differences versus the 722.0. I have a print parts book for the W115 cars, and I looked at the transmission section. The 722.1 has three planetary gearsets versus two in the 722.0. Seems the 722.0 is the red headed stepchild since I can't find any information anywhere.

I tore down my transmission late today. The K2 clutch is destroyed. I have good used parts to do the repairs and new case and valve body gaskets on the way at the MB dealer, but still need to find an untouched valve body.
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2009, 08:19 PM
mak mak is offline
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Location: Westfeld .
Posts: 687
A/T rebuild

Erich this is the first time some one has posted the trial and tribulations of a 722.1 transmission rebuild . It will be a wealth of knowledge for all of us . Do keep us posted and the Photos too.
Good luck
mak
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2009, 10:19 PM
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This one really isn't about the 722.1; but it is similar enough that the majority of the procedures will work. The main differences are in the gear train, valve body, and the K2 clutch. When I get my transmission up and running correctly, I would be happy to do a write up on the 722.1 if someone is in need of an overhaul on their transmission. I've had this one apart enough times that at this point I could assemble a 722.0 from parts thrown in a box (with the exception of the selective spacers and band pins). I think (but can't confirm) that on my unit the K2 clutch was partially turned on in first gear for some reason. Especially since it had a weird engagement when placed in "D".
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2009, 02:30 AM
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Location: brisbane,Qld.Australia
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Actually there are 600 differences in the trans over the various models besides the number of clutch units.
What is the serial number of your trans?
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  #9  
Old 12-06-2009, 09:07 AM
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Location: Fort Worth TX
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My transmission is 722.004 02 115004. I was listing what I see as the main differences between the three speed 722.0 and the four speed 722.1. I know from looking in EPC that there were many minor (but important) parts changes throughout the production run. Actually, everywhere I've checked, the overhaul kit is the same for 722.0, 722.1, and 722.2 transmissions.
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Last edited by loepke72; 12-06-2009 at 10:10 AM. Reason: corrected transmission number
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2009, 10:08 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: jersey
Posts: 188
if the clutch is destroyed THAN it was applyed all the time

or you did not assemble it correctly and or their was no clearence for the clutches

did you set the clutch end play in the pack ????

their should be two clutch drums and 2 bands is this the unit its been a while but i think that is what the 3 speed had

i might be able to walk you through the unit have not seen one in a while but its all the same stuff - did you dissessemble the valve body and attempt to clean it up

and how did you clean the trans FLUID AND AIR --- or something else and most of all did you use any rags to wipe it out AT ALL -- jz
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  #11  
Old 12-11-2009, 11:37 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Worth TX
Posts: 151
I did in fact have the K2 clutch stacked improperly. I found that out when I assembled it with the good parts and air tested the clutch. The clutch was not grabbing even though it was being activated with shop air. One of the steel plates is different than the others, and it has a machined ridge around the outer diameter. This is for the return spring holder to fit in. If this plate is installed upside down or in the wrong location, the top friction disc will not get applied correctly and the remaining clutch discs will also not get applied fully. I reassembled the transmission again, and corrected an assembly mistake in the valve body (a small valve that fits in vertically was upside down). I still have a valve body problem (harsh D engagement and problems with second gear), but no burnt fluid this time. If I can find a valve body or at least some documentation on it I should be able to finally finish this once and for all.

I have no specs on clutch pack clearance (no specs or manuals at all, unfortunately), but I used the old parts and made sure that there was reasonable clearance. As far as cleaning, that was done with a heated solvent cleaner and bulk brake cleaner. I know better than to use shop rags on transmission parts (that's always what I was told in training). I do transmission repair for a living (but I have proper service information available for those units). I knew I was going into this one blind and expected some problems. I learned a lot about these units by doing this one, and probably would be able to do the next one without problems.
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2009, 09:18 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: jersey
Posts: 188
cool in my shop today we only do race units after 40 years its now fun to go watch and i dont have to work so hard

as a rule of thumb an assembled drum if you shake it you can hear the clearence and doing the same units over and over you can get to feel the correct end clearence i am sure you know what i mean

when no info is available we use .010 thousands for each fibre as a max in a stock unit

put a gage on it / it sounds as if the standing pressure is way to high 55 pounds comes to mind old school dont know the BAR thing - i dont remember for sure but if it is 90 instead of 55 it will make it slam -
my guess you went the VAC route and checked it but modulator is after the fact

when i did my 300 D 722.2 i think < i moded the high clutch disc count added one by cutting the piston back on the lathe and reducing the spring count, could not help myself < powerglides in drag cars we do all kinds of stuff hahahhaahhahah good luck but it sounds to me its all in the valve body to working pressure that is not doing it for you

i can go and look in my papers on these units if i fine something interesting about pump pressures and adjusting it i will get back with you -- jz
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2020, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 4
hi i am doing a transmission overhaul on a 722.3 transmission. i need some good guidances on getting a torque converter . name brand price etc. my converter had 266000 miles so don't want to reuse it, even dough the car was running ok.

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