Just accquired a beautiful and clean 67 250S

[Chas H]

The o-ring fits in a groove in the top of the canister. A new o-ring should be in the box along with the filter and a washer for the long bolt. If you got the deluxe filter kit it will have a new washer for the oil drain plug. Make very sure there is only one o-ring in the groove in the top of the canister.

[Joconab]

the "O" ring was a wrong terminology. My bad. The part that I am talking about is more like rubber washer that is about twice the size a quarter with the surface of one side flat and the other is raised at the center and flat all the way the edge.

[pch2021]

it goes on the inside lip of the canister.

[Joconab]

Originally Posted by pch2021

it goes on the inside lip of the canister.

inside on the top of the filter or the bottom? There is a big O-ring that goes on the lip of the canister and this is not what I am talking about.
Thanks.

I think I found the answer to my own question. It is the bottom part of #27 in the exploded view. Darn, I had it installed wrong. I need to move the seal/washer to the bottom of the filter. If I take the canister out, will I loose all the oil? Do I need to drain all the oil before removing the filter canister?

[Joconab]

I am running into more issues with the car. I could not get sparks at the plugs; however, I get sparks at the lead wire from the (VW) coil. I have changed the condensor, cap and rotor. I tested all the wires and they carry current. I am changing the fuel pump as well just to have a new one to give peace of mind. Are there the fuel in the fuel line leading up to the filter? The reason I am asking is that when changed the fuel filter, the line was dry. I am not very familiar with MB carburetors systems. I know that in the FI system there are always fuel in the lines.

[4x4_Welder]

The fuel system is probably all gummed up and the fuel evaporated away from sitting. Put about 5gallons of fresh high-octane gas and a can of Sea Foam in the tank, that'll clean it up. Carbs may have to be rebuilt as well.
If you have spark at the end of the plug wires, you have spark at the plugs unless you have a defective plug. You should replace them anyways, they get degraded over time.

[mak]

Originally Posted by Joconab

How easy is it to convert to Pertronix ignitor? Where can I buy these? I have a 78 VW bus and this 250S to content with. I hope it is not too much $$$. Most important, what do you mean by "filling the carbs through the top jet area?" Fill with what? Please advise.

Very easy to install the Pertronix electronics ignition (90$). just two wires and they go to the coil. available at "Retro rockets " and 'Vintage performance' on a google search for pertronix.

The Zenith carbs empty out through the side vents if the car is not used over a long period . Its best to refill them with fuel through the top jet area which goes down directly into the bowl. otherwise it takes too long to fill up using the starter .

[Joconab]

Originally Posted by mak

The Zenith carbs empty out through the side vents if the car is not used over a long period . Its best to refill them with fuel through the top jet area which goes down directly into the bowl. otherwise it takes too long to fill up using the starter .

How much gas should I put in? which side? They are dual barrel, so do I fill gas in the side with out the choke flap or the flapped side.

[Joconab]

My home grown mechanic and learn as you go ability came to a halt. I took mental notes when taken the condenser and point apart but now it is all convoluted. Please guide me of how things go back. Where does the negative wire from the negative side of the coil go? I had connected it to the same place as the condenser's wire and the point. I think I did it wrong and perhaps burnt up the new condenser and killed the coil because I got very weak sparks at first and none now.

[thebenzbar]

Hi Jonathan, this may also help for your 108

[Joconab]

Thanks Al, thebenzbar.
What is the timing of the engine? I drove it today and it knocks quite loudly on the up hills. I gaped the point with it resting on the ridge at .40 as mentioned earlier and the would not start. Did I do it right gaping the point that way? I just eyeballed the contact closer to get the car started. I think I need to get the point gap correct to do the timing right? Please help.

[gs sparhawk]

On the six, I think it goes where the canister meets the block or fixture. They are always placed where the cannister meets the cover or the fixture it is snugged up to---- to keep the slippery stuff in where it can do the most good.

Sparky

[thebenzbar]

0.3-0.4 is correct for the 250S. Timing light check setting for the 250S is 1˚ BTDC.
Jonathan, I'll email you the FSM ignition settings... we share 2.5L engines although yours is the carb'd M108. Check your PM first.