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  #1  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:11 AM
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Fintail Steering Wheel - Can it be restored? How??

Hello Peaches,

My Ivory (white) steering wheel is cracked and discolored. Is there anyone who has experience here restoring the steering wheel?

1. What is the best way to fill the cracks?

2. What is the best way to restore the color?

My steering wheel had a brown vinyl cover on it for the last 15 years. The brown color from the vinyl is on the wheel (see picture).

3. What is the steering wheel made of? It looks like Ivory but it must be plastic?

Thanks in advance!

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Fintail Steering Wheel - Can it be restored?  How??-steering-wheel-before.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2010, 12:25 PM
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This is from Jim, who restored one off a 190SL... read the entire thread here: 190SL Group

"If you take the center of the horn ring to the paint store, this is the only part you have to match, when you are sanding it down just use 0000 steel wool. Much easier to get in the groves & gives a good surface for the paint to adhere. Do the paint in several light coats. The epoxy paint drys to a very hard finish after a couple days. Find a old broom handle to fit in the center hole so you can turn it with out touching the paint, build it up with masking tape to get a tight fit. Clean it well to get rid of oils from 50 years of hands before painting."
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2010, 05:17 PM
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There is an excellent how-to in the September 2009 issue of Pagoda World. You should be able to request a copy from the website,

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php

If this doesn't work, email me and I will scan it for you.
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:39 PM
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The folks behind POR15 (awesome stuff) make a kit for repairing steering wheels. I've seen it written up in HotRod a number of times and seen a recently finished wheel in person.

I picked up a used wheel on ebay and plan to give it a go next week and report back. The only perplexing bit is what paint code to repaint it.... i kinda dig the worn ivory patina....

Edit - Good call about using the center ring as a paint code...
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:02 PM
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I don't see the need to buy a 'kit'. All you need is epoxy, sand paper, a good primer and paint.
The process is just, a readers digest version:
*clean the wheel of all dirt, grime and grease.
*dig out any holes or cracks, a deep hole seems to be better to give the epoxy more area to adhere to.
* clean again and sand all of the edges within the holes
* apply the epoxy, make sure it is really in there, then let dry
* sand, by hand, down high spots with 220 grit
* prep the wheel for primer
* after priming sand with 400 grit
* paint then apply a finish coat

I had first seen Stacy David on Gearz restore a steering wheel, its condition being of the sort which I would have thrown it a away, and made it look perfect.
The Pagoda DIY followed the same process and ended up with the same result.
The most difficult task seems to be the sanding process. I would think it easy to over sand areas and damage the grooves and finger bumps.
There was also an DIY article, in Pagoda World, on restoring the horn pad. I looked at my horn pad, 280sel, and it is different from a 230-250sl. The result was excellent.

Go to http://www.gearztv.com/showdetails.php?episode=6
this is the episode about the steering wheel repair.
Good luck
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  #6  
Old 01-19-2010, 10:45 PM
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I have used the POR-15 kit with success http://www.por15.com/STEERING-WHEEL-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/SWRK/ although I am not a fan of painting steering wheels, it never lasts long, POR-15 does make a bullet proof paint though, at the time I did my fin steering wheel I was not aware of this and used marine Sterling epoxy paint. Another option would be to use an epoxy like System Three and add "Micro bubbles", it will be easy to sand and quite hard, white micro spheres and reddish epoxy make pink but you can get clear epoxy. It will likely not match the creme color you have so a good epoxy paint is really the only option.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:57 PM
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I used certain epoxy to fill the cracks -> then sandpaped like hell -> then the Motip plastic primer -> then special Acrylic lacquer.

The pralltopf I parted to pieces and a specialist did the new leatherette on it. Putting it together was extremely difficult and nasty because the thickness on pralltopf grew a bit. Warming up helped.

Result You see here:
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  #8  
Old 01-20-2010, 04:29 PM
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Very Nice results! I like it.
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:03 PM
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Good job & result!
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:42 PM
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Beautiful
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  #11  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petteri K View Post
....
Wow that is nice! It's like a work of art!
There is a Fintail at my local yard. I think I'll grab that steering wheel and restore it to hang on my office wall.




.
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2010, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petteri K View Post
I used certain epoxy to fill the cracks -> then sandpaped like hell -> then the Motip plastic primer -> then special Acrylic lacquer.

The pralltopf I parted to pieces and a specialist did the new leatherette on it. Putting it together was extremely difficult and nasty because the thickness on pralltopf grew a bit. Warming up helped.

Result You see here:
Two questions:
1. How much did you warm the steering wheel and how did you do it?

2. I had been told that a softening compound was applied to the plastic just before painting, but I have not seen mention of that anywhere.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2010, 05:38 AM
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To Strelnik (and the others as well)

Forgot to mention that I removed from the steering wheel the grease and dirt with thinner first. Then I applied colorless epoxy filler to cracks about 5 times, the filler somehow just disappears to the cracks.

After sanding it carefully with very fine sanding paper I did not use any softening compound with the painting, just did as the lacquer-manufacturer advised. The plastic primer is also used with bumbpers etc., so I consider it is essential - think what paint on the plastic bumbers on cars must take; freezing winter and very hot sunshine..
So I used Motip`s Plastic Primer with thin layers.
http://www.motip.com/?page=23&id=646

Then the lacquer; the acryl lacquer is designed to work with plastic & metal and thereŽs a wide range of colors to choose. You can also choose either to use the spray-bottle or the paint-pistol.
http://www.motip.com/?page=23&id=532

Time shows how well and long it will last on the steering wheel. It has stayed on the bumbers of my everyday S124 for three years now.

Please note that the coat of paint does not hide small scratches and mistakes, but makes them even more visible.

And finally the warming. Der Pralltopf is the german word for the vinyl leatherette covered thing in the middle, I do not know the english word. The vinyl must get a bit soft and more flexible, so I warmed The Thing with my Makita Blower to get the emblem in the center and the metal frame on their places. But be very careful not to warm it too much to either melt or burn it. Or Your fingers.

If someone feels himself unsure google the "Adsit" and YouŽll find new old steering wheels. But the price..

Best regards,

petteri.kivimaki at gmail.com
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  #14  
Old 01-21-2010, 09:37 AM
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Der Pralltopf = Horn Pad

Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the project! Sounds like many of us are ready to restore steering wheels...
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The Universe is Abundant ~ Life is GOOD!http://www.classiccarclock.com
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2010, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis View Post
Der Pralltopf = Horn Pad

Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the project! Sounds like many of us are ready to restore steering wheels...

right behind you on that...im going to go shopping for paint this weekend..unfortunatly i still need a chrome ring for the pad mine is gone

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