|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Bosch Distributor w108
I own a 1970 280 SEL 2.8 (108.019) and just noticed that I do not have the original Bosch 0231116061. I have a Bosch 0231116051 with Crane Ignition. My understanding is that 061 was discontinued. That might explain the 051, however, I looked up the 051 and it works with the following cars:
1968-69 6cyl (280SE, SL, 300SEL) 0231116051 Bosch Once I warm up the car it runs awesome. Morning start is a rough idle with black spit out of the tail pipe for about 5 minutes until engine warms up. Just wondering if this is because of the wrong distributor? Where do I start? Can someone send me the specs for the 061 and the 051. Would like to know the difference between the two of them and how its affecting my car. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
If the engine runs fine when warm then it is not a ignition fault .As mentioned black smoke on a cold engine, this is over fueling of the cold start system.
mak |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Got this from
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm awesome d-jet site Fixes for Crappy Warm-Up: For whatever reason, VW/Porsche made the CHT sensor such that the warm-up mixture is usually too lean, resulting in poor idle and drivability. Two ways to fix this. First, you can add up to 150 ohms of ballast resistance to the sensor to bias the curve up towards a richer condition. Don't go over this amount of ballast because it will begin to affect the warmed-up mixture. Second, you can construct a spacer as described on Richard Atwell's page, that delays heat transfer from the head to the sensor, making the mixture richer during warm-up. I made mine using materials from my local ACE Hardware: a M10x1.0 tap and wrench, 11/32" drill bit, M10x1.0 bolt, and a M8x1.25 coupling nut w/13 MM hex. Drill out the coupling nut and tap it to M10x1.0. Cut it down to 16 MM length. Cut a 16 MM stud from the bolt, thread it into the coupling nut so that when you attach the sensor on the other end, it just jams the stud in place. Align the flats and install. BTW, you can also do both fixes in combination (like on my car!). Or maybe Aux Air valve stuck closed. Check that site out for all kinds of diagnostics |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
His car is Mechanical Fuel Injected....not D-jet.
The first check would be the air filter on top of the Injection pump for clog or stuck air slide valve under that filter in the WRD. [ Warm Run Device] Do a search on "WRD". Those threads will explain the cold start system and simple remedies for MFI systems. I have a few detailed Tutorials in there for MFI.
__________________
A Dalton Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 02-11-2010 at 10:25 AM. Reason: sp. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
WRD
I will look at the tutorials on MFI. Wish I had detailed pictures so that I don't mess with the wrong stuff. You mentioned the filter at top of the injection pump. Is it adjacent to the red cap that looks like it can spin off? By the way I have read some of your threads on Air/fuel mixture. I failed to mention that way back hen I first purchased my w108 I got rid of the points and jumped on the crane ignition band wagon. I have read that it is paramount for timing to be correct before any adjustments are made to the IP (air/fuel mixture). Like I've mentioned before..my distributor is not the original one...should be the bosch 0231116061 and not bosch 0231116051 which is what I currently have. Can I play my timing by ear or must I be exact. Car runs great after warm up but I might be comparing apples to apples..meaning I don't really know what great means. Anyway if you could indicate the correct timing at idle and timing at Starter Spd. It's been along time since I checked the timing but if I remember correctly I jumped it to 10 BTDC and corrected a previous stalling problem under load. These cars are interesting and I really want to learn. Again, I will read your threads on MFI.
Thanks |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
280SE Guy |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Great to see you are back !!!! Regards Mak |
Bookmarks |
|
|