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#1
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Non-DIY Paint Matching for Small Patch/Paint
Hi all - Here's a beginner question:
I'm looking for a body shop in NYC to do some small patch/paint work on some rust-through spots behind the fender on my 70 220d. I went through the trouble of finding the exact paint color/code (423 - Dark Tobacco), but how do I get the shop to use the right paint? Does the 423 actually designate some formula for mixing, or is the shop going to just eye-ball a match? Since I was going to buy some of the paint online for my own touch-ups, I thought I might be able to ask the shop to use my paint. But, apparently that is like pushing the mech out of the way and talking the gun out of their hand - no one was into that idea. How do I ensure an exact match? Thanks! |
#2
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The paint code refers to the color of your car the day it left the factory. What is not considered in is rain, sun, and chemicals that have altered your paint from the original factory color. A skilled paint shop can blend small areas easily - if you are doing a larger area modern paint shops use a color gun to scan the "current" color of your vehicle.
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#3
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I guess that leads me to a related question - I just got the car, and plan to do some detailing to try to restore some of the original shine - it is pretty dull right now.
So, would I get the patch/paint work done before or after that process? I've heard that some body shops won't work on cars that have been treated with compounds/waxes/etc recently. Since I was going to be detailing it in an attempt to remove the effects of sun/rain/age, I thought buying the factory original paint color would be most exact match. |
#4
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What looks like "small" rust through spots on the surface is usually a more substantial problem in reality. The panel has usually been eaten away over a much greater area, and must be cut back to the point where the metal still has enough thickness to be patched properly. If done properly (welding in new metal) this kind of rust repair is not cheap, because it takes time. A body shop can make much better money doing insurance crash work than rust repair.
To expand on TX76513's post, if your car has the original paint, it will certainly have faded over the last 40 years. How much depends on the color and other factors. The shop will start with the factory formula and adjust as necessary to match what you have. The data plate on the car gives the shop the original paint code- you don't have to do that work for them. Most shops use one brand (PPG, Sikkens, etc) of paint in a mixing system. This means that they have all the necessary tints and bases on hand to mix any color that they have a formula for in that system. They are familiar with its characteristics and this helps maintain quality control. This is why they are not interested in using paint you supply: They are not familar with it which makes it very difficult for them to guarantee the quality of the job. Everyone's idea of a "good" paint job is different. you can spend $400.00 or you can spend $20,000.00 or anywhere in between. You have to determine how much you're willing to spend, and what end result you want, on the exterior of this car so it is satisfying to you. The next step is finding a shop that will work with you to achieve your goal for the car within your financial parameters. Tom
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1972 280SE 4.5 |
#5
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Single Stage Paint
Thanks for your responses. So, I'll leave the color in the hands of the shop.
One other question. I think the original paint on my car (70 220d) is single stage - should I find a shop that will also paint the repair in single-stage paint? Surprisingly, the shops have no answer to the question: repair the rust before or after detailing the car. While other responses here have confirmed that 40 years has affected the color/shade of the paint, in order to ensure a patch, won't whether I've just detailed it or am about to make a difference? Thanks! |
#6
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I would detail it.... just so you feel better about it A good shop would clean the paint to get a good match anyway. That is probably why they don't seem to care one way or another.
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#7
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Hold your horses
Lots of detailing agents are loaded with Silicon, which will create fish eyes in the new paint. The shop can use "fish eye eliminator" which will render the gun they're using "contaminated" for the rest of it's life. If you have the time, take some pictures and show us what you're working with. The PeachParts crew will help steer you clear of problems.
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#8
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if you go to a paint jobber (dupont, sherwin, basf etc) that sells automotive paint. They should be able to pull the paint formula from their DB's using the paint code and will be able to mix up the correct color. Don't worry about which brand, it doesn't matter on cars this old. The more expensive paint lines such as Dupont Chromobase (vs the budget Nason line) will have a bigger collection and more up to date formulas as it's designed for collision repair where mixing is more important.
You may run into an issue where the paint may not match because the paint that you have on the car is so old and faded. In that case they may need to hand mix the paint which could be a little more expensive. Good luck.
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With best regards Al |
#9
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It's not just the color, I don't think "single-stage" paint existed then. It's probably lacquer. Not all areas of the country can paint with this anymore, and even then, it's been modified to the point where it's really not the same thing that it once was.
At that age, the eye and skills of the painter will have more to do with the match than the mixing of the paint itself. Paint colors (particularly metallics) can be modified enough to make a difference by gun pressure, paint, distance to object, thinning, temperature of the car, paint, and shop, and about 20 other factors. You really can get an extremely good paint job for $2-4000, on an absolutely perfect car. (most new cars aren't perfect). For another $8-16,000, you can get a good body to spray it on to. The last 2% of a 100% excellent paint job is extremely expensive.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#10
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Quote:
Lacquer is really easy to paint, if your painting lacquer over lacquer, you don't need to sand the paint, it just bonds.
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With best regards Al |
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