Update on 280C Progress, question regarding air pump... (W114 M110) - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

travismcgee · #61 03-29-2010, 12:10 PM

Rahulio1989300E thanks for all the great info and pics. I don't mean to hijack your thread but could you go through step by step on how you removed the A/C compressor? I want to do this on my 75 280C. Thanks in advance for any and all of your help.

Travis

Rahulio1989300E · #62 04-08-2010, 09:14 PM

Hello Everyone,

I have been meaning to upload my last set of pictures I took before I got back to Atlanta. Here they are...

I degreased, sanded to the bare metal and repainted the metal coolant pipes and the water pump pulley.

I replaced the two of the heater hoses the come from the firewall near the exhaust manifold, thermal reactor thing. Hehe... I like that... THERMAL REACTOR! Ha!

The bare connections from the firewall... the heater core maybe?

One coolant pipe replaced.

Got the right side auto trans oil line out and replaced.

The bare metal connection... (auto trans cooler)

JiveTurkey · #63 04-09-2010, 08:26 AM

Fantastic work man!

Rahulio1989300E · #64 06-29-2010, 07:18 PM

Okay, now that I am back in Arlington, TX, I have time for the 280C!

I removed the 5 water pump bolts last evening and can not get the pump to separate from the block. I tried hitting it from several angles with a rubber mallet. no success so far...

Any tips?
(Considering using a screwdriver and the mallet to act as a wedge, but I do not want to mar the mating surface and end up with a massive leak with the new pump...

Rahulio1989300E · #65 06-29-2010, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travismcgee

Rahulio1989300E thanks for all the great info and pics. I don't mean to hijack your thread but could you go through step by step on how you removed the A/C compressor? I want to do this on my 75 280C. Thanks in advance for any and all of your help.

Travis

Hey Travis, sorry about the 3 month late post, but here goes from the best of my memory.

First thing to check is that the A/C freon pressure is zero. I suspected that my system was empty, but to make sure I simply tapped a flat head to the A/C schrader valve. (It looks like a tire valve used to fill air in a tire.) All I heard was a 1/2 second hiss and that was it. Next, I removed the two A/C freon lines that are attached to the top of the compressor. Then, I took out the bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket that is attached to the block. There is an electrical connection near the right fender (when sitting in car) that is a single black wire. I think it might be a ground for the compressor or a clutch engaging signal... Not really sure how this system works so I cannot say...
The compressor is heavy but should come out at this point.

Rahulio1989300E · #66 06-29-2010, 08:09 PM

Alright, just went out for 5 minute to do an over view of the car and try to remember what need to be done next. I took a metal hammer to the water pump and it budged. Got it out! Shows a bit of corrosion on the impeller, not bad, but I am replacing it.

Tomorrow I hope to post picture of this and install the new pump.

Tomas7 · #67 06-30-2010, 07:35 AM

Wow, your work is very, very impressive. Thank you very much for all the pics. I am taking notes of all the input that all of you guys are contributing. Thank you all.
I also did away with my A/C, I still have not removed the hoses as one of them seems to go into the firewall. I got rid of my catalytic years ago. My existing system is a 3 into 2 inot 1 system. I guess it comes from a Euro. car. The car runs waaaay better, it doesn't struggle going uphill anymore.

travismcgee · #68 07-02-2010, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rahulio1989300E

Hey Travis, sorry about the 3 month late post, but here goes from the best of my memory.

First thing to check is that the A/C freon pressure is zero. I suspected that my system was empty, but to make sure I simply tapped a flat head to the A/C schrader valve. (It looks like a tire valve used to fill air in a tire.) All I heard was a 1/2 second hiss and that was it. Next, I removed the two A/C freon lines that are attached to the top of the compressor. Then, I took out the bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket that is attached to the block. There is an electrical connection near the right fender (when sitting in car) that is a single black wire. I think it might be a ground for the compressor or a clutch engaging signal... Not really sure how this system works so I cannot say...
The compressor is heavy but should come out at this point.

Thanks for your reply. Can you remove the compressor without removing the radiator or clutch? Thanks again.

Travis

Rahulio1989300E · #69 07-03-2010, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travismcgee

Thanks for your reply. Can you remove the compressor without removing the radiator or clutch? Thanks again.

Travis

I believe you can, the compressor would just lift in an upward motion to clear the engine bay. As long as the clutch is not belted, then it should not affect the removal.

You will need a long breaker bar, a 6" extension and hex sockets to be able to get at the bolts regardless if the radiator is out or not.

JiveTurkey · #70 07-04-2010, 02:31 PM

I love your thread man. As soon as I'm done with bodywork on Wilma I'm planning to tackle a couple of the chores you're currently engrossed in. The pictures are GREAT!

travismcgee · #71 07-05-2010, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rahulio1989300E

I believe you can, the compressor would just lift in an upward motion to clear the engine bay. As long as the clutch is not belted, then it should not affect the removal.

You will need a long breaker bar, a 6" extension and hex sockets to be able to get at the bolts regardless if the radiator is out or not.

Yes to all of the above. It took awhile and a little contorting but it is possible to remove the compressor w/o taking out the radiator or removing the clutch. Fortunately there was no belt on the compressor.

There was one odd thing though only 3 of the fasteners were hex sockets the 4th one was just a nut. It was the one on the bottom closest to the radiator and obscured by the clutch and pulley.

Thanks again for the help and the updates on your restoration.

Travis

Rahulio1989300E · #72 07-12-2010, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JiveTurkey

I love your thread man. As soon as I'm done with bodywork on Wilma I'm planning to tackle a couple of the chores you're currently engrossed in. The pictures are GREAT!

Thank You, this is motivation!

Rahulio1989300E · #73 07-12-2010, 02:04 AM

I cleaned the intake to carb mating surface. Scraped is clean with a razor blade and then used 1600 grit sandpaper with WD-40 to oil-sand it.

Order of gaskets in Weber kit...

(Top)
CARBURETOR ADAPTER PLATE
3 HOLE PAPER GASKET
METAL GASKET
4 HOLE PAPER GASKET
INTAKE
(Bottom)

So the new 38DGAS carb only needs two vacuum connections.
One is called the vacuum advance and the other is called the ported manifold vacuum for retard or accessories... I have an idea of which lines these are from my previous questions and the answers given by you all... but I could use all the help you can offer. Can anyone walk me through this?

In terms of fuel connections, one comes from the fuel pump and into the carb, the other comes from the charcoal canister and connects to the carb.

I need to find the small blade connection for the electric choke as well...

Very simple carb to connect to the car it seems... but I will now have a lot of loose and unconnected vacuum lines that I would like to get rid of.

I think I might have asked this before, I can not seem to find my post on it...
What is this device? I think someone suggested that it is a cruise control device? It kind of seems emissions related. Has a wire cable attached to is as well as a vacuum hose... Any ideas? I kinda want to get rid of it if I can.

Basically, I want a very cleaned up engine bay with just the essentials. It is hard enough trying to keep a car this old on the road I am sure... just wanting to get rid of all the extra things that I really will never be using.

Tomas7 · #74 07-12-2010, 07:22 AM

Keep up the great work. I wish I had answers to help you along. Your work is giving me inspiration to keep working on mine.
Thanks a million.

kraakevik · #75 07-12-2010, 11:05 AM

You may wish to consider simply sealing off all vacuum lines in place other than the one or two needed by the Weber in case you decide to revert to the Solex--not all conversions are happy ones, I'm afraid. The same applies to the coolant circuit used to regulate and cool the automatic choke on the Solex.

The rear fitting is for the fuel feed--the forward fitting for the fuel-vapor emission system may potentially be more functional blocked off--I doubt seriously that the charcoal canister/check-valve setup is still working.

Good luck and let us know how you get on

Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Four M110's