Lifter Tick

[MKUltra]

How do i get this tick to go away?

Is there any way to?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWgsTMBdALY


embedding disabled?

[pchbreeze]

Good question...I think a valve adjustment is the only way but it probably wouldn't hurt to use thicker oil if you're on the original engine, especially if it hasn't been rebuilt in a while. It never freezes where I live and the recommendation for this climate is 20w-50 but I'm going to try to see if I can find something a little thicker.

[Pooka]

You don't say what type of car you have, so...

If you have adjustable valves, where you adjust the valve clearance by adjusting the clearance between the camshaft and the cam follower, you need to look at the cam and the follower. If either is dished out then the only way to make the noise stop is to replace the worn part.

If you have Hydraulic lifters then go to an auto parts place and get a can of anything that says "Stops Noisy Lifters!" and put that in your engine. It will wash out the dirt that is in your lifter that is keeping it from pumping up.

[MKUltra]

Originally Posted by pchbreeze

Good question...I think a valve adjustment is the only way but it probably wouldn't hurt to use thicker oil if you're on the original engine, especially if it hasn't been rebuilt in a while. It never freezes where I live and the recommendation for this climate is 20w-50 but I'm going to try to see if I can find something a little thicker.

Thanks for the info! I figured I may be able to be adjust them a small bit but wasn't sure and wanted to ask before i tore into my only running car at the moment. The oil in it doesn't seem to thick but the pressure gauge good pressure soo...

Only way to know is to ad some thicker oil i guess!

Originally Posted by Pooka

You don't say what type of car you have, so...

If you have adjustable valves, where you adjust the valve clearance by adjusting the clearance between the camshaft and the cam follower, you need to look at the cam and the follower. If either is dished out then the only way to make the noise stop is to replace the worn part.

If you have Hydraulic lifters then go to an auto parts place and get a can of anything that says "Stops Noisy Lifters!" and put that in your engine. It will wash out the dirt that is in your lifter that is keeping it from pumping up.

One could easily assume its the 66 230 w110 fintail in the vid i posted...
not to mention its also in my sig... It's the only Benz.

I would rather replace the part than to throw a magical mixture of fluids into my motor. Besides, i could just use some ATF, its basically the same stuff as you are suggesting. Just helps to pressurize the lifters.

Worse case scenario the motor blows and i just send the car to the junkyard...

[wolf_walker]

Originally Posted by MKUltra

Worse case scenario the motor blows and i just send the car to the junkyard...

Unless it's rusted or accident damaged to a fair degree there is zero reason on earth to junkyard that car for a mechanical fault. This is not a twenty year old Volvo that you find on every other street corner. Adjust the valves, change the oil (20/50 Rotella), make sure the top end is oiling, and see what it does. She's 40 something years old, it's gonna break, be expensive, and you'll never get much out of it selling it other than the gratification that you have preserved a piece of relatively rare automotive history.
It takes a masochist of sorts..

[MKUltra]

Originally Posted by wolf_walker

Unless it's rusted or accident damaged to a fair degree there is zero reason on earth to junkyard that car for a mechanical fault. This is not a twenty year old Volvo that you find on every other street corner. Adjust the valves, change the oil (20/50 Rotella), make sure the top end is oiling, and see what it does. She's 40 something years old, it's gonna break, be expensive, and you'll never get much out of it selling it other than the gratification that you have preserved a piece of relatively rare automotive history.
It takes a masochist of sorts..

HA, i wouldn't sell it man. I would fix it without a doubt. I was just being petty LOL

When i checked it this morning there was plenty of oil splashing around everywhere under the valve cover.

As it stands now the car needs a rear main(oil dripping from bell housing) and a clutch... pretty sure the oil soaked the clutch and is causing it to slip.



I still have to track down a key to get my Oil plug out...

[wbain5280]

You will need to adjust the valves.

Stt the special tool on this page, second from the bottom.

http://www.peachparts.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.php?page=11

[MKUltra]

holy crap! that thing is expensive

[wolf_walker]

Originally Posted by MKUltra

holy crap! that thing is expensive

Told ya so, lol

Just kidding, open it up and get a crows foot and a swivel and extension, see if you can get at it. Might have to get an extension bent. Another idea is to try and hook up with another local Mercedes lover with the tool that could be borrowed.

[MKUltra]

Theres a couple old timers a coworker pointed me towards. Once i get the time Ill be swinging out to see what they can do. I still have to replace the rear main seal and clutch... How are they to do on this beast?

[bwostosh]

That rear main, wet clutch plate, is a pull the motor and transmission job. Then you have a bunch of further decisions to make. Like front trans seal, front crankshaft seal, valve job, motor mounts. rear trans seal and flex coupler, on and on, shifter bushings, steering coupler. etc.
I get bogged down at this point too.
This is a critical time to decide save, do all fixes while out, or ?

[MKUltra]

Why would you have to pull the motor to drop the trans?

you cant just seperate the Trans from the motor and shift it back a few inches to squeeze the clutch in?

I did that on my old jeep once...

[mercmad6.3]

If you are changing the rear main,remove the engine and trans in one unit. It's easy as far as engine removals go and because the rear main is a rope seal it needs a bit of care to replace. the alloy pan doesn't use a gasket and can be difficult to seal again if the engine is still in the car.
Replace the front seal and clean the oil pump screen . Check the bearings for wear while you are in there.
putting the trans back on with new Clutch and throwout bearing is simple with the power unit on the floor and replace the shifter link bushes.
put the engine back in and you are ready for another 40 years.

[MKUltra]

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

If you are changing the rear main,remove the engine and trans in one unit. It's easy as far as engine removals go and because the rear main is a rope seal it needs a bit of care to replace. the alloy pan doesn't use a gasket and can be difficult to seal again if the engine is still in the car.
Replace the front seal and clean the oil pump screen . Check the bearings for wear while you are in there.
putting the trans back on with new Clutch and throwout bearing is simple with the power unit on the floor and replace the shifter link bushes.
put the engine back in and you are ready for another 40 years.

Thank you for going into some better detail on this.

I have a coworker(older guy whos into classics) that wants my blue wagon. He also has a shop and wants to help me to the clutch... I may be able to work something out on this deal.

When i bought the Benz it cam with all sorts of DIY manuals. I may leave him to himself to do all the work. Frankly, the way i am about my cars(way too over protective when it comes to people looking after them for me) I'll probably be by his side to do all this work...

How does the front end of these come apart? Fenders have to come off or what?

OYE!

Maybe this should be stickied?

[bwostosh]

How does the front end of these come apart?

IF you are looking at doing that,
just drop the motor and trans with the front end sub frame assembly out the bottom.