w110 190Dc acquired

[Necrosavant]

Originally Posted by KCM

Simple fix. If you look on the injection pump where the cable attaches, there is a clamp that holes the cable sheath. With the knob pushed in, loosen the screw on the clamp, shove the cable down as far as it will go without putting a bow in the shut-off cable, which pushes the pump shut-off lever all the way forward, then tighten the screw.

It is also possible that the plastic/rubber piece that is in the end of the cable or that the isolating rubber mounts for the cable sheath are bad and need replacing.

yea when i got my car the 3 little rubber mounts were dry rotted causing it to shut down hard because it would not actuate the lever all the way(look like miniature versions of the air cleaner mounts) after replacement shuts right off

[JeffreyNMemphis]

The tires on the car are not dry rotted, but they are not the ideal size (185.70r13) at 22.5 inches diameter. The correct size is 185.80r13 (25 inches diameter) and will make the car sit taller. It would look SO sweet with a white wall. I had the exact same size tires on the Emerald Bullet when I got it...



Sounds like the shut off situation will be sorted out right away...

Wait till they see pictures of the engine bay! Friends, be careful not to drewl on your keyboard...

[daw_two]

1. Not a laughing matter, but tonight I figured out the "shutoff" issue. The cable that comes from the gorilla knob to the lever on the side of the injection pump has some "play" in it. It appears to be a worn rubber "sleeve".
2. Obviously, there is some peeling "rust" (does this even qualify for that word?) in the area of the brake master cylinder. I wonder if a w123 brake master cylinder would fit. That would be nice. Please note how low the level is in the reservoir.
3. I think the "air conditioned" sticker is pretty cool --- no pun intended.
4. So, can someone tell me where the circular access panels go that are in the trunk under the rubber mat? What is underneath them?
5. Someone wanted to be sure they remembered this is a 200D engine.

Here's the link to the entire 190Dc_fintail slideshow that contains more than just the following pics. Enjoy and please answer the questions or point out anything you see. I still don't see the oil access points on the injection pump. I see lots of wet hoses. In addition, the door seals need replacing. I guess I better start the list.

[Squiggle Dog]

The brake master cylinder is not compatible with a W123 (because a W123 is 4 wheel disc, while a W110 is a disc/drum mix). Here is a good deal on a new cylinder: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BRAKE-CYLINDER-MERCEDES-190C-190DC-200D-220S-230S-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563b8e1a89QQitemZ370366356105QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

[t walgamuth]

My 62 190c looked like that except for color. Mine was ivory with navy vinyl interior. I loved the single headlights and the little turn signal light on the fender. It reminded me of the taxis in Europe.

Congrats on a lovely finney!

[JeffreyNMemphis]

The rims are painted body color!

The car does have rust. Are you sure you still want that old car? How about a refund?

[daw_two]

Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis

The rims are painted body color!

The car does have rust. Are you sure you still want that old car? How about a refund?

Do you want to buy it? I know a car hauler that knows how to get to your house.

[JeffreyNMemphis]

I should have sold you the Emerald Bullet! I can fix the rust on Ben in about 45 minutes.

[daw_two]

Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis

I should have sold you the Emerald Bullet! I can fix the rust on Ben in about 45 minutes.

45 minutes? I'm comtemplating removal of the battery this weekend in order to get a better look at what's going on down under the brake booster. It will take this engineering trained shadetree mechanic more than 45 minutes to just evaluate everything.

Emerald Bullet .......hmmmm.........I think I have my hands full already. Of course, I've said that before, right???

[daw_two]

Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis

The rims are painted body color!

The tires are in such good condition, I think it will be a while before they are unmounted. I'll want to repaint the hubcaps though.

[Necrosavant]

Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis

I should have sold you the Emerald Bullet! I can fix the rust on Ben in about 45 minutes.

ill take it

[KCM]

Originally Posted by daw_two

1. Not a laughing matter, but tonight I figured out the "shutoff" issue. The cable that comes from the gorilla knob to the lever on the side of the injection pump has some "play" in it. It appears to be a worn rubber "sleeve".
2. Obviously, there is some peeling "rust" (does this even qualify for that word?) in the area of the brake master cylinder. I wonder if a w123 brake master cylinder would fit. That would be nice. Please note how low the level is in the reservoir.
3. I think the "air conditioned" sticker is pretty cool --- no pun intended.
4. So, can someone tell me where the circular access panels go that are in the trunk under the rubber mat? What is underneath them?
5. Someone wanted to be sure they remembered this is a 200D engine.

Here's the link to the entire 190Dc_fintail slideshow that contains more than just the following pics. Enjoy and please answer the questions or point out anything you see. I still don't see the oil access points on the injection pump. I see lots of wet hoses. In addition, the door seals need replacing. I guess I better start the list.

Concerning the lever, the end of the cable that fits over the pump lever is supposed to have slop. The end is slotted so that the cable can be pulled further to engage the starter past the normal run position. Might still just be an adjustment issue.

I'm not sure this is what you are referring to, but their is a cover in the center of the trunk that allows access to the fuel sender in the fuel tank. Don't think the cover you show is for anything.

The master cylinder is probably not bad. The reservoir is attached with rubber grommets. These likely leaked, causing the pain to peel and rust. Clean up and repaint is probably all it needs.

The check plug for the injection pump is between the side delivery pump and the shut-off lever. It takes a 16mm or 5/8" socket. The screw-on fill cap is on the top rear, usually red. Add oil until all the diesel is evacuated and the pure oil runs out of the check plug.

[daw_two]

Tried to remove the air filter cover --- the AC hose is in the way. Weird. Then I started looking for the oil filter.......oh, yeah, it's the thing under the injection pump between the steering mechanism and the bottom of the engine. So, how do I change the oil filter? And if the oil was last changed 6 years and 70 miles ago, would you even bother to change the filter???

I took the battery out and got a good look under it. In addition, I got the auxiliary fan power supply wires out of the way. Cleaned the brake fluid reservoir, then used the turkey baster to get most of the excess out, pulled it out of the way. Discovered that Ben has an add-on electrice water heater that is connected to the heater hose system going to the block. Interesting.

It's time for me to starting making the list of all the rubber parts that I need --- hood rubber stops, brake reservoir O ring and grommet.

Oh, yeah, one more thing. Ben Bites!!! He must not be use to me yet. Settle down, boy. I'm only trying to make you better.

[79Mercy]

The AC was probably added at a later date so thats prolly why the ac hose is running over the air filter.

Yes you have a canister oil filter, just unscrew the 17MM bolt and pull the canister off, beware its a little messy. YES change the filter, it has probably started to degrade after so many years.

[Necrosavant]

for the oil you need to lift the car up and turn the wheel all the way to the right to get clearence..and if you still have original filter housing there should be a drain plug you can open first ,then an allen up top to release the canister..also make sure to get the oil screen in addition to the filter..make sure to fill up your air filter housing up to mark with oil too