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#1
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need an explanation for part
I went today to get a safety for my 1962 Mercedes 190c, and the guy mentioned I need tie rods (which I have in my garage) and also what needs replacement is "Right upper balljoint to arm pivot worn" What am I looking at?? I am looking for an upper balljoint but dont see one, is there another name, what kind of part am I looking for?? PLEASE HELP!
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#2
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Those cars do not have ball joints. They use the traditional king pin, and all pivot points are actually threaded joints. I'm assuming it is the threaded pivot at the top of the king pin that is worn (231 in the parts diagram), which might require replacing the king pin (58 in the parts diagram) as the threaded pivot threads into the top of the pin. There are repair kits available from the Mercedes dealer and other sources, and luckily many of those parts also fit other Mercedes models of that vintage. Replacing any parts in that area will require a front end alignment. Definitely is a do-it-yourself job, but tools such as a spring compressor and jack are needed, plus a repair manual is a good idea.
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#3
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when i go to the dealer what should i ask for... whats the name?
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#4
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Here you go. Some of the names are not very descriptive. (Note that item 13 is for heavy duty springs only.)
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#5
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That 231 kit is a weak point of those front ends just replace that first.
Upper outer pivot repair kit. under $50 about 2 hours to swap out. My friends 190SL had that part seize and break the upper A arm hole where the kit attaches. Cost him some bucks because I didn't do the work.Just did the diagnosis. The inner side of the A arm is a nightmare to get access. It's the lock plates (171) for those two bolts connecting to the sub-frame. |
#6
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this is what i bought eccentric upper control arm repair pivot arm ..................kit! 50 bucks a side
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#7
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Ok, now the real diagnostic work starts. When you start to remove the upper ecentric bolt, you may find it fused to the threaded bushing. If that happens, you will then need to replace the kingpin because the threaded bushing is also tough to get out, or impossible to removed and the bolt shaft will have to be cut with a sawsall or with a cutting torch. Lets think positivly, the bolt will turn and you'll be lucky.
While you're in there, check the rubber seals, which are thin on the outer joints and tube like on the inner mounts. Good grease is necessary in these cars and usually isn't done often enough. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease in a grease gun with a long flexible hose. If you have trouble greasing a joint, use a heat gun to heat the joint in question: (heat gun = industrial strength blow dryer). Don't forger the two on the rear axle swing arm joint either.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#8
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oh boy seems like this is gonna be a chore. Though it was going to be a easy job like replacing tie rods. Guess not
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#9
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I have no idea what I am doing i was looking at it and it looking pretty single i took off the nut, and then tried to get the bolt out but it doesnt want to go. What do i need to do, I thought it was a simple in and out. Any steps do i need to take? PLEase help this is the last step before safety!!!
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#10
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i keep hammering at the bolt but it wont budge???
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