Remove/Replace Starter Motor

[helprequested]

1974 450 SLC manufactured 12/73 How best to reach the upper bolt of starter? Which service manual directs? I have service manuals:

V-8 Engines
Chassis and Body

Thanks,

Tim

[Graham]

You can get at it with a series of extensions and wobble joints. Some say you need 5ft, but others have got by with less and perhaps more swivel joints. You feed them in up along the tunnel. On my car and early SLs, it has a 19mm hex head. Later cars have a hex socket, I believe.

I am having shop swap my starter this week. I did get at top bolt with extensions, but I could not break it loose. Needed a breaker bar, but without much clearance under car and slack in the multi joints, I could not get it to release.

Even with bolts loose, it may be tight for one person to catch and lower the starter especially if it is original large unit.

I did not try removing the wiring - wondered if it would be easier to feed the harness out and remove connections afterwards.

Others have done it - I decided that without hoist it was a job for a shop. MB time for job is 2.4hrs.

BTW - If anyone needs a starter motor harness for an early 73+ SL, I have a NOS one that does not fit my '72 350SL at my cost (Under $100 incl shipping)

BTW2 - replacement rebuilt starters are geared units and much smaller than the original. I got one off eBay for $99 plus shipping.

[RAYMOND485]

1984 300D TURBO 152K
USE A JACK UNDER THE BREAKER BAR AND IT WILL POP, TAP THE ALLEN BOLT
HARD FIRST BOTTON BOLT FIRST, TURN STARTER 1/8 INCH TO RELEASE TOP BOLT

[helprequested]

I still can not even see the bolt head. I was worried the engine
had to come out. Is it a cap screw that has to be held at both ends?


Thanks

[Graham]

Originally Posted by helprequested

I still can not even see the bolt head. I was worried the engine
had to come out. Is it a cap screw that has to be held at both ends?

Thanks

You can't see it, but you can feel it if you put your hand in there. It is a 19mm hex cap screw on early cars and it screws into a threaded hole on the starter (see pic). (The lower one has regular bolt & nut.). If you put a 19mm socket on a short extension, you should be able to put it onto the nut. Then start adding extensions!

[helprequested]

Thank you for the information. I have hope.

Tim

[230/8]

My trusted and totally dependable indy mechanic advises me that one addition flex joint is needed...midway between your elbow and your wrist...

[Graham]

Originally Posted by 230/8

My trusted and totally dependable indy mechanic advises me that one addition flex joint is needed...midway between your elbow and your wrist...

That would be useful in many ways!

We had a thread on same subject earlier:

W107 Starter Removal

[Graham]

My car went into shop bay at 8:15am and was out by 10:30am. About same as MB quoted time for job - 2.4hrs. Cost me just under $200 plus taxes. Replacement smaller diameter rebuilt starter (SR59X) fitted fine and was $99.00 from on-line source.

Previous starter had a shim between flanges. Shop did not install it. I guess the shim would limit how far the pinion engages with the ring gear. Starter sounds OK , so hopefully shim is not needed.