280CE Died While Driving, Now Won't Start - Need HELP Quick!

[Squabble]

I was driving my '78 280CE this evening, going about 55 or 60 mph up a hill, temp a little higher because of the hill, all else normal, when it just suddenly quit on me. it felt like the gas pedal was no longer affecting the engine. it started slowing down and as i pulled off the road everything quit on me and it locked up.

the lights, windows, sunroof, and radio all work. all fuses are intact. the fuel pump whirs and hums. i tried getting spark from a wire to a ground though a screwdriver but i didn't see anything. don't know if it was lack of spark or lack of good technique and/or tools. the car cranks just fine, does not sound like a starter issue. all linkages are intact and move as they should. topped off the tank but still no go. she's got new oil and filter, new air filter, old fuel filter (was replacing it this weekend), old trans filter.

anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong? can someone list some things to try, i need all the help i can get. thanks!!!

[mercmad6.3]

The best idea is to check if have spark by getting a spare plug and sticking it in a lead. Trun the engine over and see if the plug gives a spark.

next replace the lead if you have spark because it means that you aren't getting fuel. Check that you actually have fuel pressure and not a bloocked or fouled new filter.

[79Mercy]

That's very strange, im betting you lost spark. Pull the cap off and inspect the contacts, also inspect the rotor.

[alabbasi]

Yeah I would pull the cap and check the rotor. Something similar happened to me and when I pulled the cap, i found this:

[Squabble]

mechanic drove out to it and checked things out. he's convinced it's the pick up assembly in the distributor or the ignition control module after some testing. how likely are these things? ordered the pick up, will be here on wednesday, hopefully that does it. if not, i've got a possible WTB posted in the classifieds for a ignition control module out of a junker (no junk yards in upstate NY). anyone have any leads on that?

[JohnM.]

I have a 280CE ignition module, PM me.

[meltedpanda]

I have some as well , post part number. Coil check out?
Battery ground Ok?

[meltedpanda]

Holy Crap AL, just looked at that, what happened , some local thug put a fire cracker under there?

[Squabble]

my ignition control module part number is 0 227 100 001 and then what appears to be a "B". it's Bosch.

from everything i've read and researched, the late chassis numbers will NOT work in my car. somewhere down the line they changed to a different kind. the one i have is rectangular with the long side having the plug connections. the later one has the plug connections on the shorter side of the rectangle.

i've had a few offers from people who have them, i'll be contacting everyone individually as soon as i find out today whether or not the pick up assembly fixes the problem. thanks!

[mercmad6.3]

Only the really early W108 280 SE box is different to the one you want. it looks different but will still plug in the same. The later ones that wont work are for the V8's from 1982 onwards. So,look for a W114 ,116,123 or 126 for a box. It's simply a transistor switching box. Nothing complicated in them at all.

[Squabble]

this information is awesome and intriguing. please take a look at the attachments i have here: 280CE Died While Driving, Now Won't Start - Need HELP Quick!, post number 10. the first one is for the box that i want to get, with the updated technology that says it only fits the later 280CE's. the second one is for the one that fits my chassis number. the one i attached to this thread is the one that fits the later chassis number. notice the different part number.

if what you say is true, any of these would work in my car. the only reason they changed is for fitment, not because of the different distributor caps and rotors that are part of the later 280CE's? if you can 100% confirm this i would be incredibly pleased, as i could get a WAY cheaper replacement part with new technology. i'll figure out a way to make it fit in the car, i just want to make sure it'll work.

if you can't tell, i'm new to all of this stuff...

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

Only the really early W108 280 SE box is different to the one you want. it looks different but will still plug in the same. The later ones that wont work are for the V8's from 1982 onwards. So,look for a W114 ,116,123 or 126 for a box. It's simply a transistor switching box. Nothing complicated in them at all.

[mercmad6.3]

if it has the Four Pin plug and the single pin plug for the green wire from the distributor it will work. There were two main types. One for the distributor with points and one for the distributor with the hall effect ring. You can tell the later type because it just has a spikey ring under the rotor . The early types have steel lid ,followed by the next series which were all alloy but have large circular ring shape in the lid. The one you pictured is a common part and can be obtained anywhere and should work in your car.

[Squabble]

so it doesn't matter what kind of distributor i have, any of the ICM's will work? early or late, new or old style?

what's a hall effect ring? is that the same as a hall sensor or distributor pick up? if so, that's the kind i have because my indy had me order a new distributor pick up.

Originally Posted by mercmad6.3

if it has the Four Pin plug and the single pin plug for the green wire from the distributor it will work. There were two main types. One for the distributor with points and one for the distributor with the hall effect ring. You can tell the later type because it just has a spikey ring under the rotor . The early types have steel lid ,followed by the next series which were all alloy but have large circular ring shape in the lid. The one you pictured is a common part and can be obtained anywhere and should work in your car.

[mercmad6.3]

A new pickup? Why,did he say?
They generally last forever. I have done 600,000 Plus with a 280 SE and all it ever needed was three sets of plugs and a set of leads over that time. There is nothing much in those distributors and even less parts to fail. I have had a few boxes in customers cars fail over the years though but it takes a lot of mileage before that happens, normally around 500,000 plus.

my best advice is to borrow a known box that works and try it. if the car starts,there's your problem.
I think even the W126 V8 boxes will work because all it does is switch the current to the coil ,feed a tach signal to the rev counter and fuel pump safety switch and a line to the that round black plug where the analyser is plugged in. The green wire is the low tension circuit for the distributor so the box knows when to switch.

[Squabble]

he didn't say why. he came down to the lot, popped the hood, took out a diagnostic tool, had me crank it for awhile, poked the tool around, and said it's either your pick up or your ICM. i ordered the pick up and it should be here today. i've been waiting anxiously/impatiently to find out if it's going to fix the problem before i get an ICM. if this doesn't work it's another tow out of the parking lot at work as they've said no more after this week. then it will be at home and will be harder to get my indy out to look at it = my amateur skills are left to fix this with no diagnostic tools or knowledge...

this car only 120,000 miles.