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  #1  
Old 11-02-2010, 12:24 AM
D&W D&W is offline
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1968 280se heater question

1968 280se w108

heater works no worries, Im always warm as can be but i realized no matter if its aimed either up at the windshield or down under the dash, the warm air only comes out of the left sides onto the driver. the passenger gets cool air....

Any ideas as to why?

Appreciate any comments on this, thanks!

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  #2  
Old 11-02-2010, 01:10 AM
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Check the bowden (choke) cables from the controls to the actuators. No vacuum pods are used for this system.
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Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

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  #3  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:08 AM
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Are you sure you have the passenger temperature control turned on? It is the lower right hand lever, just push it towards the red arrow to increase the temperature on the passenger side. These models had a lever to control either side of the cabin.

Regards,

280SE Guy
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2010, 12:10 PM
D&W D&W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 280SE Guy View Post
Are you sure you have the passenger temperature control turned on? It is the lower right hand lever, just push it towards the red arrow to increase the temperature on the passenger side. These models had a lever to control either side of the cabin.

Regards,

280SE Guy
Interesting, that lower right lever is very hard to move....I will give it another go but will not push too hard for fear of breaking....

If I can't move it does that mean broken lever or cable that it attaches to?
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2010, 01:13 PM
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If the lever doesn't move it could mean a stuck heater control valve. I've replaced all of the heater levers before but have not attempted to repair or replace the control valves. Perhaps you can gain access to the heater control valve on the end of the heater control cable to see if you can move the valve from the origination end of the cable? I'm sure someone else has been in there before with a similar problem.

Regards,

280SE Guy

PS: the joke is that the car started down the assembly line as a heater core and the rest of the car was built around that part.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2010, 01:36 PM
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Right, go to the valve and oil it and wiggle directly on the lever. YOu don't want to break your levers.
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:53 PM
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Ok that makes sense in my head, now i just need to know where to look to find the heater control valve

thanks in advance
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:22 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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On the 123 cars it is on the firewall near the back of the engine valve cover. I cannot remember where it was on my finney.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:09 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
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The heater valve is accessible by looking under the R side of the dash. It's pretty easy to reach (unlike the heater motor). Just lay on the RF floor and look up. You should see it with the kick panel removed--can't remember if there's a kick panel or not. The w111 has the valve located in the same place.
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  #10  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:37 PM
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The easiest way to access the valves is to remove the glove box insert which will give you a clear view of both valves. The valves are on the right side of the heater box. You can then move the valve lever, attached to the valve, back and forth. It your very lucky moving it could free it up. Although this is unlikely.
Sorry to say but you cannot just oil the valve. The fit is very tight and the introduction of oil would a best be a short term solution. If the valve does no move smoothly then i is a good chance that the o-rings are bad. You can replace them while the heater core is still in the car but it will not be easy. There is not a lot of room.
I you do decide to replace the o-rings. Remember that when you pull the valves out coolant will come out. So remove the carpet.

Since the lever is difficult to move. It could be the cable and not the valve. If there is any a small bend in the wire, inside the cable, it will not move smoothly. Disconnect the cable from the valve and then see if the cable operates smoothly. If it does then the problem is the valve.
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  #11  
Old 11-13-2010, 09:56 PM
mak mak is offline
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if you have to remove the valve oil/spray it generously for a couple of days and then use the treaded end of a spark plug to remove .the plug end has the correct threads .
All frozen nuts respond to a oiling mixture of ATF and acetone (50/50 ratio)
mak

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