Front Subframe Removal W115

[79Mercy]

Well someone has stripped out my motor mount bolts, the ones that hold the mount to the subframe, NOT the large 19mm bolt.

Anyways my mounts are collapsed and it vibrates to much for my liking at idle.... And it appears im gonna have to drop the subframe to get the stripped bolts out.

Anyone have any tips for pulling the subframe out? How did you support the motor while you pull the subframe?

Thanks,

Stewart

[Benz Dr.]

You shouldn't have to remove the sub frame.

Do this one side at a time:
remove the shock and the front sway bar link. You might want to take the brake hose off on that side of the car.
You really need to have the car on a hoist to do this easily but if you don't have that place the body of the car up on blocks and mainly on the side you're working on.
Place a jack under the oil pan. Place a flat board under the pan so it won't be damaged. Raise the jack until it takes up some weight. Remove the two sub frame mount bolts from the side you're working on and lower the engine down. As long as the motor mount is attached it won't go very far but the sub frame won't drop that far anyway.
The motor mount will be sitting right in front of you and well out of the way of the main frame of the car. You should be able to get at the two hex screws at this point. Use heat and a pair of vise grips to remove them. We use anti sieze on all of the screws during assembly.

This would be a good time to install a new sub frame moun kit, brake hose and sway bar links if you need them.

I turned a bear of a job into about 3 hours total. Same job as done on any 107. I do the motor mounts and sub frame all at the same time. It's the only way to go.

[79Mercy]

To be honest i think it would be much easier to remove the subframe, the hex heads are pretty stripped out and im going to need a large area to get at them. I dont think i would have enough room just by dropping down on side at the time. The pass side mount bolt closest to the block is stripped...

I have replaced my subframe mounts in the past, so i am somewhat familiar.... but i havent ever taken the entire thing out yet...

[Carpenterman]

If you are going to remove the subframe, there is a tool that goes from inner fender to inner fender and uses a strap around the water pump (see image).
I think you could make one using a 4x4 and a strap. If it was me, I might want to go around the crank rather than the water pump, though.

[79Mercy]

Here is what i had in mind for supporting the engine.

Jack up the motor with a floor jack at the oil pan and then put a jackstand where the engine and transmisison meet(behind the subframe) to hold up the engine. And of course blocks of wood between the engine and the stand for protection..... Then use 2 floor jacks, one under each control arm to lower the subframe down and out of the car...

[Mike D]

well, there's always something like THIS: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

You don't have to buy one. I'm sure you got a tool rental place near you. 'Course for $80 it's hard to beat the price.

I don't much care for Honk Kong Freight but it will do the job.

Pictures of it in use. Post #5.

W114/115 subframe restoration

[79Mercy]

I have searched and searched and never saw your thread Mike. Thanks for posting the link!

Anyone have any suggestions for removing the 2 stripped out 6mm allen head bolts? I was thinking of hammering a 12p point socket over the head of the bolt and try to see if it would grip enough to remove it. I have never drilled out a bolt before, never had to.

Thanks again

[WANT '71 280SEL]

When an allen bolt is stripped out, I've had the most luck (short of drilling out the bolt) hammering a torx head socket into it. Make sure you get it in there all the way, and if you're not using a hammer to put it in all the way, it probably won't work. I think you'll have much better luck doing that than trying to get a hex socket to grip the outside. If the torx tip doesn't work, you're probably stuck using an EZ out, which isn't bad if you can get a drill, etc. to the location (assuming it will be if the subframe is out of the car).

Best Regards,

David

[Carpenterman]

Don't forget the hot wrench (torch).

[79Mercy]

I wasl loking online and find another way which seems like it should work if hammering a Torx bit into it doesn't work... That will be my first attempt once i get the subframe out of the car.

Take a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the bolt, use a flat head bit on the ratchet to remove the bolt.

[Benz Dr.]

Heat the little bastards with a torch and they'll come out. There isn't much you can't loosten with heat.

How do you know you won't have enough room? You won't until you try, right?
Believe me, I've done this job many times and you're making ten times more work for yourself than it needs to be, and all for nothing.
I used your idea once and it was a real bear trying to get the sub frame back in. Pulling a sub frame is only done if it's screwed up and I assume yours isn't. I did it once becuse I was changing sub frames and not because I wanted to either.

This is what I do for a living. I just gave you some very good advice. It's up to you now I suppose.....



BTW, I have one of those old factory engine lifts they used to pull sub frame out from under cars. Not that I'd use it - it's probably a collectors item today.....

[79Mercy]

heres my new thread with pics of the job

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/291741-w115-motor-mount-replacement-subframe-removal-w-pics.html#post2630632

Thank you to everyone for their suggestions, i appreciate it.