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#16
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Martin |
#17
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A dollar bill is the ideal cleaning tool for the points or so Frank Mallory believed. -CTH
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#18
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#19
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There will be a time when your storage will become very valuable. |
#20
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I have no idea what the repair kit cost...if you find out, let me know. I would just like to buy one as a spare. The D-Jetronic parts (along with all MB vintage parts) are getting so high, I'm surprised they have many customers! lol
__________________
All the best, J. P. Mose 1968 250SL 1970 280SE 3.5 Cabrio 1987 560SL 1990 560SEL |
#21
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A well spent dollar... hopefully.
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#22
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update: I have put the parts of my distributor back together.The job is not complicated.
I have used synthetic ATF (a left over) to lubricate the cam spindle and I put new Bosch grease on the felts. It went well. I also put sealant on the vacuum actuator and the trigger point drawer before closing with some hope that water can be kept out.. I have not touched the trigger points at all I was testing the trigger points and this is a question for Graham: I found that 3 of the points stayed close for 120 degrees (and open for 240 degrees) and one point was closed for 160 degrees (open for 200 degrees). Graham or others please weigh in here. I am about to put the distributor back into the car. |
#23
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I just replaced the vacuum diaphram on the distributor (same as yours for the W111) due to a slight leak. Dealer list was around $190....luckily I was able to obtain it for $127. Still! I think they are around $35 on a late model MB!
__________________
All the best, J. P. Mose 1968 250SL 1970 280SE 3.5 Cabrio 1987 560SL 1990 560SEL |
#24
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Martin and all,
Another post told of 110 degrees is correct, 120 deg. says rubbing block wear. Bend to adjust? |
#25
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Quote:
especially the one trigger point that is showing 160 degrees. The only problem is that it is hard to do in reality because I need to remove the tray for every attempt for adjustment meaning bending the existing point. Also I guess i need to destroy the plastic caps covering the trigger points in my unit. What do you think? Is it worth the hassle? I mean does something not work in the current condition with the 120/240 and 160/200 condition? If I have no choice I'll do it. Martin |
#26
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There are no right and wrong angles published that I know of. But I do have a new set of points and a spare distributor that I could use to measure these. If I don't forget (likely!), I will do a test when I get back home in mid April I don't really know how having worn rubbing blocks affects the data to the ecu. I have read that the trigger points initiate injection and that engine load as measured by MPS determines how much fuel should be injected. But this is also a function of engine speed. Engine speed is determined by measuring the time between pulses from the trigger points. So, it is easy to see that worn trigger points could cause incorrect speed measurement. Bosch apparently designed the points to last for 100,000 miles. But that presumably assumes proper lubrication intervals.
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#27
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Thanks to Graham and Brian
update triggerpoints: I just wanted to tell you that I tried hard yesterday to make the old trigger points work. I measured again the existing dwell angles more precisely with a tool and found: 140 - 170/180 degrees (never measure dwell andgle with your thumb!). I did a search on the web to get single points but with no success. Barri was emailing me that old VW type3, Volvos 144 E? and Porsche 4 cylinders had the very same points...just one set for 4 cylinders which I could try to get and use. No success here so far over the internet. In my despair I was taking the 4 point assemblies off, and was bending the upper plates where the small contact is located to a more upward position in order to compensate the wear of the rubbing blocks. It is nuisance and difficult to predict what the bend does in terms of dwell angle but after hours I had them all at 110/250 confirmed original set point) Well the downside is that the upper contact point is now shifted in an angle (some maybe 20+ degrees as the arm is very short) caused by the bend and I had to grind the edges of the contact point slightly ...just so it didn't look too odd. I have no clue what the metal composition of the contact is and if this was a good idea. I guess it was rather not but my only choice. I didn't bend or touch the stronger ground plates...so I could just put new points in if I can get them anywhere for a decent price. After hours (it is an insane process) I had all points at 110/250 +/- 5 degrees. I am still looking to get 4 new points. Any suggestions where I can get them? Mercedes, VW, Porsche? |
#28
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BTW, in looking through some old pics, I found this one. Is this where you bent the points? Shouldn't have needed much of a bend to make up for the rubbing block wear?
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#29
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I didn't bend the basis (which is the thick metal bracket that is not moving) Instead I have bent the moving part which is a thinner metal arm with a rivet to the rubbing block. I bent this part upward in order to compensate the wear. Although it might be better to bend the thick metal arm I did bend the movable part because I want the option to install new points. Martin |
#30
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Graham: I was ordering now trigger point which were offered for a VW type 3 which contain 2 single points for the VW 4 cylinder D-jet. I'll take the 2 single points out and install in my distributor and will replace the 2 point which I had to bend very much in order to achieve the 110 degree dwell angle. I am still looking for the other 2 points.
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