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  #31  
Old 04-25-2011, 01:01 PM
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update

I picked up 2 trigger points (new) for the VW D-jet four cylinder and took out the 2 points in order to put them in my distributor.
But even with the 2 new ones the timing was off. Not as bad as with the old ones but still.
Spec is 110 degrees closed and 250 open.
What I decided then is to bend the parts in order to get to spec: 1) the fixed and thicker bracket plate and 2) the moving sheet metal of the trigger points. Together I was able to get all points to the 110 degree spec. But you need to do both 1) and 2) in order to get the contact surfaces kind of lined up.
I didn't see a real point in the end to buy new trigger points because the old ones are working perfectly. Make sure that the surfaces are clean, use a business card and clean the surface. There also seems to a concern with sanding the surface. I didn't do it but as it seems to be Tungsten steel I don't know what would be the problem.
Martin

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  #32  
Old 06-06-2011, 09:46 AM
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There's a new set of the early trigger points available on Ebay. I bought a set from same seller 2-3 weeks ago...while they are not boxed, they are new. He apparently had a few on the shelf. Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-PULSE-GENERATOR-TRIGGER-POINTS-000-158-01-19-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1c28f632QQitemZ120731530802QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
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1970 280SE 3.5 Cabrio
1987 560SL
1990 560SEL
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  #33  
Old 06-08-2011, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMOSE View Post
There's a new set of the early trigger points available on Ebay. I bought a set from same seller 2-3 weeks ago...while they are not boxed, they are new. He apparently had a few on the shelf. Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-PULSE-GENERATOR-TRIGGER-POINTS-000-158-01-19-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1c28f632QQitemZ120731530802QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
I was renovating my old trigger points..I found out that they might last 'forever' by design, the only thing that wears are the blocks rubbing of the cam... you need to bend both end of teh points (fixed bracket PLUS the moveable point) in order to compensate the wear.
Work pretty good and you can get the trigger points back to specs 110 degrees closed and 250 open.
Martin
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  #34  
Old 06-08-2011, 12:23 PM
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I think you don't need to spend several hundred dollars for new trigger points.
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  #35  
Old 06-15-2011, 11:39 AM
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update: I tried to get the dwell angle right and I was experiencing big axial play for the cam that operates the points...like 0.5mm
Did anyone redo the slide bearings of a distributor?
I' d need some advise here.
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  #36  
Old 06-15-2011, 11:57 AM
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I got new bushings from Benz Dr., I'd reach out to him.

Make sure you drill a hole in the upper for the oiling port.
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  #37  
Old 06-15-2011, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
update: I tried to get the dwell angle right and I was experiencing big axial play for the cam that operates the points...like 0.5mm
Did anyone redo the slide bearings of a distributor?
I' d need some advise here.
If you replace points with a Pertronix, the play in the bearings doesn't matter. Only costs about $70.00 and eliminates one possible ignition problem on old cars. No gaps or dwell to set again ever!
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  #38  
Old 06-15-2011, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Graham View Post
If you replace points with a Pertronix, the play in the bearings doesn't matter. Only costs about $70.00 and eliminates one possible ignition problem on old cars. No gaps or dwell to set again ever!
Do you know how to do Pertronix on a 3.5? I heard mixed things ...lots of problems setting this thing up. Can you help me put this in place?

Does the play not influence the trigger points on the bottom too?
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  #39  
Old 06-15-2011, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMela View Post
I got new bushings from Benz Dr., I'd reach out to him.

Make sure you drill a hole in the upper for the oiling port.

Thanks JMela, I'll reach out to Benz Dr. ....
And drill the hole.
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  #40  
Old 06-15-2011, 06:20 PM
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Martin,

I have Petronix in my 3.5 coupe. Very easy set up, but I used the Flamethrower coil as well. Flamethrower coil is not compatible with my tach, but if you don't have a tach, I highly recommend the set up. When I put the strobe light on it, the timing was rock solid steady.

Bert
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  #41  
Old 06-15-2011, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjefke View Post
Martin,

I have Petronix in my 3.5 coupe. Very easy set up, but I used the Flamethrower coil as well. Flamethrower coil is not compatible with my tach, but if you don't have a tach, I highly recommend the set up. When I put the strobe light on it, the timing was rock solid steady.

Bert
Martin asked me to walk him through it, but if you have done it on same car then you are the man!

I would suggest he just do the points replacement (at least for a start).

Following is based on installation on my 72 D-Jet SL:

Installation is a snap. Just buy the kit (Model 1885). I bought mine from Retro-Rockets - very knowledgeable and good pricing/shipping)

To install, just remove points and replace with Pert pick up coil. Then slip on magnet. Run black wire to same place existing points green wire went. Then connect red wire to a switched 12v supply (like 12v side of one of resistors). Recommended to add a ground wire from casing of distributor to a good ground or battery negative. That's it - you're good to go. Maybe adjust timing and no more adjustments.

more here : 72 280SEL 4.5 no spark

Re bearing wear affecting trigger points. I suppose that could happen if bearings are badly worn.

PS: Bert - You can usually fix the tach problem. Just add an ~10Kohm resistor in the line that goes to the tach.
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  #42  
Old 06-16-2011, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjefke View Post
Martin,

I have Petronix in my 3.5 coupe. Very easy set up, but I used the Flamethrower coil as well. Flamethrower coil is not compatible with my tach, but if you don't have a tach, I highly recommend the set up. When I put the strobe light on it, the timing was rock solid steady.

Bert
Thanks Bert, Graham

I don't have a tachometer in the dash (is this what you mean with no tach?)
Is the Flamethrower coil in addition to the standard set up? (forgive me my innocence).
Can you correct the Pertronix 'shopping list' for the 3.5?

like for instance:
1) Pertronix Ignitor 1, model 1885, with
Pertronix pick up coil, magnet, black and red wires
2) Flamethrower coil
Please correct

What is the problem with Pertronix burning through when key is in position 2?

Martin

Last edited by werminghausen; 06-16-2011 at 07:53 AM.
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  #43  
Old 06-16-2011, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
Thanks Bert, Graham

I don't have a tachometer in the dash (is this what you mean with no tach?)
Is the Flamethrower coil in addition to the standard set up? (forgive me my innocence).
Can you correct the Pertronix 'shopping list' for the 3.5?

like for instance:
1) Pertronix Ignitor 1, model 1885, with
Pertronix pick up coil, magnet, black and red wires
2) Flamethrower coil
Please correct

What is the problem with Pertronix burning through when key is in position 2?

Martin
Quick answer:
You don't need to change your coil. For a start, just buy the 1885. This link is about such an install,

Longer answer:
If you want to bypass the D-Jet "switchgear" later, you can do that by buying a coil. I have one, but it is still in my parts box

If you don't have a tach on the dash, then you won't have to worry if and when you do bypass the "switchgear".

For some pictures, see this link (for different car, but similar)

Regarding burning Pert out by leaving ign switch on. This shouldn't normally happen in normal use, but easy fix is to just disconnect the red wire if you need to have the switch on for extended time when working on other parts of car. Or at least that's the way I do it.
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  #44  
Old 06-16-2011, 02:44 PM
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key in position 2 (on-position)and Pertronix burning out: Key position happens often when you work on a car...not during normal driving...unless the engine dies...it happened to me.
So this would be a problem if I forget to change cables for that purpose. Is there another solution to this issue?
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  #45  
Old 06-16-2011, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
key in position 2 (on-position)and Pertronix burning out: Key position happens often when you work on a car...not during normal driving...unless the engine dies...it happened to me.
So this would be a problem if I forget to change cables for that purpose. Is there another solution to this issue?
You could put a switch or a bayonet connector on the red wire, but you still need to remember to disconnect. The problem would only occur if the magnets stop in a certain position.

You could automate the switching using a relay or you could put an LED on dash to warn you Pert is on, but I didn't bother. Maybe put a Dymotape sign next to switch to make you remember to disconnect

There are some suggestions in earlier discussions, probably posted by Bill Hunter.

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