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#31
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update
I picked up 2 trigger points (new) for the VW D-jet four cylinder and took out the 2 points in order to put them in my distributor. But even with the 2 new ones the timing was off. Not as bad as with the old ones but still. Spec is 110 degrees closed and 250 open. What I decided then is to bend the parts in order to get to spec: 1) the fixed and thicker bracket plate and 2) the moving sheet metal of the trigger points. Together I was able to get all points to the 110 degree spec. But you need to do both 1) and 2) in order to get the contact surfaces kind of lined up. I didn't see a real point in the end to buy new trigger points because the old ones are working perfectly. Make sure that the surfaces are clean, use a business card and clean the surface. There also seems to a concern with sanding the surface. I didn't do it but as it seems to be Tungsten steel I don't know what would be the problem. Martin |
#32
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There's a new set of the early trigger points available on Ebay. I bought a set from same seller 2-3 weeks ago...while they are not boxed, they are new. He apparently had a few on the shelf. Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-PULSE-GENERATOR-TRIGGER-POINTS-000-158-01-19-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1c28f632QQitemZ120731530802QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
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All the best, J. P. Mose 1968 250SL 1970 280SE 3.5 Cabrio 1987 560SL 1990 560SEL |
#33
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Quote:
Work pretty good and you can get the trigger points back to specs 110 degrees closed and 250 open. Martin |
#34
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I think you don't need to spend several hundred dollars for new trigger points.
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#35
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update: I tried to get the dwell angle right and I was experiencing big axial play for the cam that operates the points...like 0.5mm
Did anyone redo the slide bearings of a distributor? I' d need some advise here. |
#36
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I got new bushings from Benz Dr., I'd reach out to him.
Make sure you drill a hole in the upper for the oiling port. |
#37
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If you replace points with a Pertronix, the play in the bearings doesn't matter. Only costs about $70.00 and eliminates one possible ignition problem on old cars. No gaps or dwell to set again ever!
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#38
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Does the play not influence the trigger points on the bottom too? |
#39
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Thanks JMela, I'll reach out to Benz Dr. .... And drill the hole. |
#40
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Martin,
I have Petronix in my 3.5 coupe. Very easy set up, but I used the Flamethrower coil as well. Flamethrower coil is not compatible with my tach, but if you don't have a tach, I highly recommend the set up. When I put the strobe light on it, the timing was rock solid steady. Bert
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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold '63 MGB '73 MGBGT V8 |
#41
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I would suggest he just do the points replacement (at least for a start). Following is based on installation on my 72 D-Jet SL: Installation is a snap. Just buy the kit (Model 1885). I bought mine from Retro-Rockets - very knowledgeable and good pricing/shipping) To install, just remove points and replace with Pert pick up coil. Then slip on magnet. Run black wire to same place existing points green wire went. Then connect red wire to a switched 12v supply (like 12v side of one of resistors). Recommended to add a ground wire from casing of distributor to a good ground or battery negative. That's it - you're good to go. Maybe adjust timing and no more adjustments. more here : 72 280SEL 4.5 no spark Re bearing wear affecting trigger points. I suppose that could happen if bearings are badly worn. PS: Bert - You can usually fix the tach problem. Just add an ~10Kohm resistor in the line that goes to the tach.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#42
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I don't have a tachometer in the dash (is this what you mean with no tach?) Is the Flamethrower coil in addition to the standard set up? (forgive me my innocence). Can you correct the Pertronix 'shopping list' for the 3.5? like for instance: 1) Pertronix Ignitor 1, model 1885, with Pertronix pick up coil, magnet, black and red wires 2) Flamethrower coil Please correct What is the problem with Pertronix burning through when key is in position 2? Martin Last edited by werminghausen; 06-16-2011 at 07:53 AM. |
#43
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You don't need to change your coil. For a start, just buy the 1885. This link is about such an install, Longer answer: If you want to bypass the D-Jet "switchgear" later, you can do that by buying a coil. I have one, but it is still in my parts box If you don't have a tach on the dash, then you won't have to worry if and when you do bypass the "switchgear". For some pictures, see this link (for different car, but similar) Regarding burning Pert out by leaving ign switch on. This shouldn't normally happen in normal use, but easy fix is to just disconnect the red wire if you need to have the switch on for extended time when working on other parts of car. Or at least that's the way I do it.
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#44
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key in position 2 (on-position)and Pertronix burning out: Key position happens often when you work on a car...not during normal driving...unless the engine dies...it happened to me.
So this would be a problem if I forget to change cables for that purpose. Is there another solution to this issue? |
#45
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You could automate the switching using a relay or you could put an LED on dash to warn you Pert is on, but I didn't bother. Maybe put a Dymotape sign next to switch to make you remember to disconnect There are some suggestions in earlier discussions, probably posted by Bill Hunter.
__________________
Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
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