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#46
05-04-2011, 06:12 PM
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If you have tractor place in your town,ask the workshop manager about the injectors. he may have a outside company who rebuilds them (cheaper option than buying new parts) .I have done thousands of them over the years and it's mostly just the nozzle needing replacement .
You wont get the proper vacuum with the rear line disconnected. Try blocking the line with a screw in one of those black rubber tube connectors and see if it works. Your vacuum pump may not be working at all. The throttle linkage should be smooth with no catching but that is probably a result of broken engine mounts. 
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#47
05-04-2011, 06:32 PM
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Thanks - Vacuum pump works great. In fact I reconnected the vacuum line today & installed the gas tank (it was not as clean I would have liked - but it will have to do). The car starts easy & shuts off clean.
I routed the switch for the glow plugs inside. So now just the injectors and brakes & the motor mount when it arrives. The car still blows white smoke - tons of it - but its not oil smoke (at least not all of it). I stood in the cloud and sniffed - it didn't smell like oil at all - nor much like diesel. It didn't smell like antifreeze either - so I still think I'm ok on that front. I just need to toss in some new inectors and get it over with.
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#48
05-04-2011, 06:48 PM
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Brass,
Do you ever come up to Chicago? There's a great place on I-55 and I-355 that rebuilt my injectors. It's called Midwest Fuel Injection - but it might not be that much more expensive for new injectors. http://www.mwfi.com/
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#49
05-04-2011, 07:21 PM
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linkages
Fuel Sender 85 300D- Cleaned (Pics)
WOW!! Adjust your throttle linkages! Throttle Linkage Questions your set up could be different, but this will give you some good starting points. Also dis-assemble the pivot points one at a time and shoot some white lithium in there
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#50
05-04-2011, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
it may just be crap in the mufflers too and might need a good burn to clear it out.
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#51
05-04-2011, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
I have set the glow plug switch inside the cab so I have easy reach of it & re-installed the tank & buttoned up the trunk. I slowly took it out of the drive way and pulled to the intersection at the end of our neighborhood. Now I live on a dead end road - so there isn't much traffic, but I didn't want to fog my nieghbors for mosquito's so I decided to take the marmot (thats what we named the car - the marmot) out on the faster road. I patiently wait until there is no sight of any vehicle and pull out. The car is rediculously slow. Slower than even a 240d with a slushbox should be. It struggles to reach 15 mph then fights its way to 20 - then I crest the hill. Did I mention the hill? I live at the top of a 1/3 mile long very steep hill with a curve near the bottom. So I'm thinking this will be great to get the RPM's up & hit the long flat portion of the road at the bottom with enough momentum to go where I want. I hit the botom of the hill at about 50 mph  The speed is blowing my mind! BUT - at the bottom of the hill where the road flattens out for quite some way the car starts dumping speed. 40...30...25...20... So I think I need to turn around - this was with it flored by the way.I pull into a gravel drive and prepare to throw myself back into deep water. It takes a minute to build my courage. Then I go! FLoor it like Jimmy Johnson on race day. The diesel engine is just wailing in protest at the redline rpms its pulling and I finally get up to 20 mph. I try to get up to 25 as I approach the hill but have to pull over to let all the normal cars go by. So I wait again for the traffic to go away & I start up the hill. I knew it was going to be interesting. at about the 10 ft mark I dropped the car into low and she responded with a healthy jump in rpm's & up we went. Now this particular hill has an extra lane on the right where large truck and what not who struggle to climb the hill have to stay. I was on the shoulder to the right of that with the hazards on gradually losing speed. About half way up 2 things happened. FIrst I noticed the unmistaklable smell of locked burning brake shoes/pads. THe second thing that happened was the car decided it didn't want to die as a turn on the side of a hill in Illinois so it woke up and really started to take the hill climb serisously. Bt the top we were making a respectable 20 mph. Well I felt so good about this sudden breath of life in the car I decided to take it into town. Its mostly flat and there are almost no people there. Just the perfect place for me. There are however a number of stops signes. FUnny thing about stinking burning over heating brakes is they tend to boil the brake fluid in the caliper. This introduced hundreds of juicy & fat air bubbles in your stopping fluid. Actually getting the marmot to stop at the library was quite the adventure that I dare say 3 or4 normal drivers would have perished attempting it. For example - the brakes have boiled off so they are very very spongy. Now if you hit hard enough the rear brakes will eventually kick in and save that puppy that ran out in front of you - so its still OK. And of course you can pop the car into Neutral to slow the continuous drum beat of the beast of an engine straigning at the restrictions placed on it by the previous owner. Or was that the throttle stuck to the floor again? In any case - I noticed while driving that there was hardly any smoke at all - expecially at speed even when the rpm's had been very high. So - for a highway car -I dont care so much about the smoke. It will not be an issues. Now - when I gat the marmot back to his cage I noticed that both front wheels were very very hot while the rears' were cool to the touch. This of course just confirmed my suspision that the brakes work is the next most important item to be worked on. I shall soon buy 2 new calipers and rubber lines to them. The point of this car is to cheaply take me to work for the next 5 years w/o paying a huge amount for gas. Diesel is now less expensive than gas. Mix in a little veggie oil and I'm sold. I think I have already proven myself a capable mechanic on these old cars- I should open shop onworking on them. That may work. I'll work on your 240d and you do the body work this car so desperately needs. There are no less than 3 spots I can see the road when driving and none were there when I first saw the car. So - I'll trade some work for a little rust work.
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#52
05-04-2011, 11:12 PM
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On a 300D, there is a oil cooler line just below the fan belt, when the motor mounts collapse the belt gets dangerously close to that line. Your 240 could be different, but it mite be worth checking.
Sounds like you had an exciting adventure! Sounds like you are pretty quick at the mechanic stuff!! Good for you! You can rebuild the calipers if you want. You can tell what brand brakes you have by taking off the pass front wheel, it should say on the caliper if it is bendix or ATE, not sure if you noticed that. I had no clue until the guys told me...wooohoooo another one lives!!!!
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#53
05-04-2011, 11:38 PM
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The main reason the car is slow is because the brakes are probably full on. Even a 240D isn't that slow normally...
 The smoke may just be a cold running ( and worn injector ) issue that the smaller merc Diesels sometimes have.
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#54
05-05-2011, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Brakes are going to be ordered today & installed this weekend!
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#55
05-05-2011, 10:54 AM
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Pics - these were taken before I washed it.
   
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#56
05-05-2011, 08:20 PM
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The new motor mounts arrived today! I will be working on this thing this weekend for sure. I have plates and insurance now - so its time to start driving it!
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#57
05-05-2011, 09:52 PM
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Hey if you are not too concerned about the paint, majic eraser will clean it up nice! Gets most of the grime out of the paint. It is an abrasive, but I think if you polish or wax over the cleaned area it will stay clean longer.
I was not concerned with my paint 'cause it is so far gone, it took most of the chalk and grime off and waxed up nice. Ask your wife about it, it is in the cleaning isle in the grocery store, it is about the size of a kitchen sponge like a foam. You only need water with it.
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#58
05-05-2011, 10:02 PM
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Great idea! - I scrubbed the car with the pressure washer so it looks lots better than in these pics - but there are a bunch of greasy hand prints on it now & I was wondering about how to get those out.
Planning to install brakes & motor mounts this weekend. Maybe I'll cut out some of the corner rust too.
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#59
05-06-2011, 11:48 PM
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You guys will NOT believe this.
I decided to pull the calipers tonight to see if they are bendix or whatever. I started with the drivers side. This was the one I couldn't bleed. I pull off the caliper and I notice the brake pads are BRAND NEW! They still have the brake in material on them. Yes they have been sitting for some time but what the heck. I bet there isnt 200 miles on these pads. So I clean everything up & blow it out with compressed air then re-install it & remove the bleeder all together & let it drip brake fluid. After about 5 minutes of dripping I reinstall the bleeder screw. I give the wheel a spin and have no hang ups. The wheel spins free. So I jump to the other side. First thing I try to do is give the hub a spin. It doens't budge. Stuck but good. I really twist on it & I can get it to go - but its definately tight at the caliper. So I pull that one off thinking its junk. I blow it out & start to look it over. The same brand new pads - But then I notice the pistons are all the way in - they have not slipped out at all. So if the pistons are not coming out how can it be so tight? Well - I remember reading in one of the threads or the maual I was given about there being two different calipers for this year - the early ones have 15MM shoes and the older ones have 17MM shoes. This is an early one and this caliper is a 15MM caliper & someone stuck 17MM shoes in there & jammed it up tight! Ha - I pulled the pads out (not as easy as I thought it would be) and clamped them in the vice & took the trusty file to them. I removed about 1MM from each pad & re-installed everything. Time for another test drive. Cold start - using the glow plug relay & switch I installed. The car chokes to life & idles rough & smokes like crazy. I back it out of the garage and the brakes feel good. It dies & I have a little trouble re-starting but I get it going. So I pull out & head for town. The car does not want to go - but I can't tell if this is because of brakes or because its tired & cold & wants to go to bed. After about 2 or 3 miles the engine warms up & we really start to go. Now - its slow - but it wasn't like before. I drove into town & at the first stop sign I thought it would die - but it didn't. Just smoothed out & idled really nice. So I take the long way back home so I can build up some speed. The car had no trouble going 60mph. I decide to pull out onto the highway for the last leg home. Still not the fastest ride I've ever owned - but it ran up to 65 with out any issues. I tried to set the cruise but it didn't work - it would accelerate - but not hold. Anyway - the Marmot still does not like hills and on the long grade on the highway it droped back to about 55 but kept going and didn't hesitate. When I got home - there was no smoke at all - though the exaust still stunk like diesel. It was clattering and noisy - but idling smooth. I had lubricated the linkages with WD and after a little use - they are not sticking any longer. So - I officially have a car! This will be my bad weather car - so next I need to plug the holes and open the drains. Can you believe it? I bet the previous owner had someone put these pads on or he did it himself and parked the car because it wouldn't go right. I bet it sat for years. Here I've had it for 1 week & have put a $100 battery and $25 worth of fuel filters and a little time & its going like mad.
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#60
05-07-2011, 12:53 AM
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"Here I've had it for 1 week & have put a $100 battery and $25 worth of fuel filters and a little time & its going like mad."
And it will probably continue to run, even if it rusts out from underneath you! When u are confident enough in the engine and brakes consider an italian tune up! It should help clear out the carbon build up Italian tune up
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