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  #1  
Old 05-05-2011, 08:24 PM
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Wetness

I've got an old rust bucket of a 240D. I guess the drains are/were plugged and it sat under a tree for a couple years before I drug it home late last week.

I've got it running pretty good - and I'm almost ready to start driving it regularly.

I want to find a good way to dehumidify the interior of the car.

It has foam insulation on the floor under the mats. I cant see much of the floor sheet metal, but what I can see is soaking wet and rusty.

I saw amazon has a small dehumidifier for about $60. Does anyone know of a good way to dry this thing out?

I dont mind plugging something in while its in the garage - but I don't want something thats going to catch fire either or burn the seats.

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  #2  
Old 05-05-2011, 08:48 PM
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You should be able to remove the carpet from the floors like you'd remove a mat in an American car. The pad is glued to the back of the carpet and it just lifts out.

There is sound deadening material on the firewall section, if that's what you mean. But to get to the metal floor maybe a few snaps under the seat?

Take 'em out, lay 'em in the sun.

The sunroof drains may be a culprit, or the window seals.
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2011, 10:04 PM
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I took out the mats/ carpet - & there is a thick matt attached to it, but there is also a white foamish material covering the floor that was under the carpet. Looks like insulation or more sound deadener.

1 of the matts is dry now - the other still has a way to go.

My sunroof does not open. so I can't get at the drains. I'd hate to pull down the head liner & not be able to get it back up.
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2011, 10:03 AM
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So I assume you have cleaned the drains behind the hood hinges?
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2011, 10:26 AM
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under the doors are drain holes, they need to be clear as well, water going down the glass into the door will spill out inside if not open, drains in the engine area as well ( as mentioned)
Everthing that is under the carpets should come out, and needs to if you really want to dry out the car and inspect floor pans. While you are at it remove the seats and let them sit out for awhile as well.
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  #6  
Old 05-06-2011, 12:44 PM
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Once everything is dry, baking soda on the underside of the carpet sections will help with the odor.
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2011, 01:25 PM
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I haven't found the drains yet - Havent' looked that close just yet because I've been working on getting it running & its in the garage - so no new wet.

So there are drains in the door & under the hood hinges. I cant open the sunroof - i heard there are some there. What about at the back of the car?
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  #8  
Old 05-06-2011, 01:35 PM
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Front drains for the W123:-



It eventually comes out in the wheel arch just behind the front wheel on this bit:-





Sunroof drains from the front come out from behind the front wing / fender a little further back - if you remove that plastic panel shown above you can see a bit of rubber tube right at the top of the inside of the wing.

Sunroof drains from the back come out just behind the rear doors on a sedan on the pillar - just behind a thick bit of trim.
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  #9  
Old 05-06-2011, 02:41 PM
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Awsome! Thanks for the pics that helps a ton.

I accident'y cleaned out the rear sunroof drains when I washed the car with the pressure washer. Those "vents" on the pillar by the rear window were FULL of junk from the tree it was parked under.

I'll run a wire through the rest of them tonight!

Has anyone ever used those chemical dehumidifiers? Like the small buckets you set in the closet etc? I was thinking one or two of those left in the car will help.
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  #10  
Old 05-06-2011, 02:56 PM
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Are there drain holes on a W114?
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  #11  
Old 05-07-2011, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassMonkey View Post
Awsome! Thanks for the pics that helps a ton.

I accident'y cleaned out the rear sunroof drains when I washed the car with the pressure washer. Those "vents" on the pillar by the rear window were FULL of junk from the tree it was parked under.

I'll run a wire through the rest of them tonight!

Has anyone ever used those chemical dehumidifiers? Like the small buckets you set in the closet etc? I was thinking one or two of those left in the car will help.
Yes I have - I couldn't see any effect what so ever in the car whereas in my power tool cupboard in the garage they worked really well...

I conclude that I'm not storing my power tools in my garage in a good place - and that despite the wet floors in the car (before I fixed the leaks) it wasn't wet enough for these things to work.

In the end I decided to remove the sound deadening on the inside of the floor pan. Some of it was still nicely painted in the colour of the car but underneath water had found its way through and was pooling. It is a ***** to remove. A scraper is best - heat kind of works but I'm sure the fumes are lethal.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 05-07-2011 at 04:46 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:01 AM
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As Army did, if you have "dampness" problems, it is best to rip out all of that sound deadening material and get to the metal. That fantastic undercoating MB did to the underside keeps all the moisture in the car and also holds all the crumbly metal together. Best to check the floorpan to sill weld joint all along the sides.
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:26 AM
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agree , only way to so it, get to the floor pans, you will be glad you did. I have resurectered a few and is the only way to go
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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #14  
Old 05-07-2011, 09:38 AM
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How do you remove the sound barrier. I havn't looked too closely - but the stuff doesn't look like it was made to come out.

Plus I'm afraid this is the only thing left of the floor. I guess if it is its best to know so I can bolt down a stop sign or something for a new floor.
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2011, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassMonkey View Post
How do you remove the sound barrier. I havn't looked too closely - but the stuff doesn't look like it was made to come out.

Plus I'm afraid this is the only thing left of the floor. I guess if it is its best to know so I can bolt down a stop sign or something for a new floor.
You just need to try and scrape it off - like I said it isn't easy... but it is the only way to make sure the rest of the floors stay intact.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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