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#1
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1973 220D Trouble Shifting 4 speed manual
I just installed a new (used) 4 speed manual trans, my original lost all of its oil on a long trip (not good). Anyway I have the new trans installed and she works well, only thing is that it was a little rough shifting. I am sure that I have the shifting rods in correctly and the bushings are in good shape. I took it out for a tour and tried to take care and when I went back up all was well and good until I tried to go into another gear.
The tranny is now locked and I can only back up. Can anyone tell me what is going on and how to fix this? Please help Andy |
#2
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I'm no tranny mechanic - but I've had a few break on me - Check first the shift linkage. Sometimes these can get out of whack & if you just had it out they may have popped loose.
Second - pull the shifter out & see if you can shift into 1st by reaching in with a big screwdriver. With the clutch pushed in the shift forks should move around freely. Look for any loose bolts. They can cause binding issues too. Its possible the used tranny had more use than you thought too - |
#3
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Probably a linkage issue. OTOH, is you clutch releasing all the way? If not, it may make shifting while the engine is running very difficult.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#4
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Did you bleed the clutch properly? Air trapped in the system will make shifting difficult. What slave cylinder did you use? If the one on the replacement transmission, it may have gone bad and leaking with same results.
Misadjusted shifter rods may also make shifting difficult. When you set the rods, you must fit a pin across the bottom of the shifter to lock all three arms in neutral position. You should then adjust rod length and/or lever position on the transmission with none of the gears engaged. Rods should slide in the levers' bushings freely before you clip them. Also, did you use the same release bearing and rod out of the lave cylinder? I just got trapped fitting a slightly shorter rod and inadequate relase bearing and gears were difficult to engage. Can you actuate the trans levers freely and engage disengage freely all the gears when you disconnect the rods? If yes the problem is with your rods set-up or the clutch. If no, then you may have a problem inside the trans. Don't try to engage first with a screw driver as indicated above, at least as long as reverse is still engaged. I guess you only risk stalling the engine if you have two gears engaged at the same time, but you may do some damage if you rev the engine up and release the clutch. |
#5
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Quote:
This is great information and help. I am a little new with my Mercedes so my learning curve is steep. I tried to use as many good things off of my original engine as I was unsure about the new tranny. The Slave is my original slave and it is quite new. I used my original shifting rods as they looked new when compared to the rods on the new tranny. I removed the shift rods and smaller splined arm off my original tranny. I was carful how they went on the new tranny but I was not that carful about their location when I hooke them up under the car. I would imagine that this is my problem. Now I did use the reused tranny with its own release bearing but when it was semi working it seemed to be working well. It was a little harder to start and I wonder if the clutch is realeasing all of the way. She starts cold like a charm but after she is hot you would almost think that the starter was being held by somthing. Any ideas and what do you think I should do first. Sorry about all of this hastle, some would say to just give it to someone who knows what they are doing. I love to learn and knowing my car make owning it a great deal more fun for me (some would call me carzy and that would be my wife). Andy |
#6
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Start with the rods and the levers' position, as this may be the source of your problem. It is very important to lock the three shifter levers with a pin, or a long M6 bolt. All three levers have a hole to that effect that align with two holes on the shifter body on each side of the levers. Do this from underneath the car, as obviously the length of the rods will be different if you pull the shifter to do this from the top. Then see if the rods slide freely in and out of the lever bushings whith no gear engaged.
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#7
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I will need to read this a couple of times but I think I have it. The car is locked in gear right now and I can only back up. I will snap the clips off the shifter rods and try and move the three shifter levers as you have stated. I am 95% sure that this is my problem. Thanks again for your help, I hope to do this on the weeked. All the best, Andy |
#8
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Great news, she is up and running better than ever.
I took a good look at things and reset the small drive arms that come off of the gearbox. I needed to rest the distances of each arm on the splins. She now shift smooth and even seems to start better. Anyway, I am not sure what I would do without this forum. Thanks again guys, you make owning my Mercedes a great deal more fun because I am able to connect with the old girl like never before. Andy |
#9
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Well done!
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#10
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On my 76 240D I got in GA drove all the way home took it to the DNV went to the beer store now it is stuck in reverse, I drove home 5 or 6 blocks in reverse, and all the neighbor were out around that time.
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1976 240D 1976 240D parts car 1970 220D daily driver |
#11
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Quote:
Andy |
#12
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Actually there was never anything wrong with his 240. It was just the lack of acceleration in traffic which made him think he was in reverse!
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#13
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Thanks for the smile. Andy |
#14
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My first Benz was a 1973 220D with a gadzillion miles on it. I drove the beast for 8 years and then gave it to my son. Loved that car. Always had to leave early to get anywhere on time though.
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#15
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Quote:
Andy |
Bookmarks |
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