Help: I need a fuel pump for 300SEL 109.056 3.5 Bosch 0580 970 002

[werminghausen]

Hi Bert

I used o-ring 50 x 2.5 (this is ID 50, OD 55) for the housing, then 2 o-rings ID 30 x 2 for the chamber seal.
It seems that an o-ring ID 8 x 1.5 or 8.5 x 1.5 for the terminal should do.
Many thanks Bert for your pioneer work. You'll get these o-rings in the US.
Martin

[sjefke]

Well, I finally put the pump back together with a new o-ring in the terminal. I bought a whole metric o-ring set from harborfreight for $7, so have plenty of spares. I soldered the leads back which was a bit of a pain (lots of dust, poor solder adhesion, flux only does so much), but got them to stick. I put the motor back in its housing, shaft pin back in, rollers back, etc., benchtested it and it spun right away.

I left the outside housing loose for now because I don't need the pump under the car anymore right now, so I am not 100% sure whether the leak is cured, but it can't be worse.

For those hunting for d-jet pumps, look under the older Nissan 280Z in a scrapyard. As far as I can tell, they are the identical Bosch pumps. I scored one a while ago. The only differences that I can see is that:
1 - They do have wax/plastic dripped on the terminals to seal the connectors
2 - there seems to be a restrictor in the outlet pipe (the one on the back of the pump) that I did not see in the 350SL pump that I got.

I'll try to post pictures sometime.

Hope this helps.

Bert

[mercmad6.3]

I never thought of a Nissan but here in OZ ,the Local GM product, the holden, came with a Djet injection in the 1980's for a couple of years and pumps were only $70. (they also had a Nissan Turbo engine for one year) How mercedes can demand $600 today for the same part is beyond me.

[werminghausen]

Originally Posted by sjefke

Well, I finally put the pump back together with a new o-ring in the terminal. I bought a whole metric o-ring set from harborfreight for $7, so have plenty of spares. I soldered the leads back which was a bit of a pain (lots of dust, poor solder adhesion, flux only does so much), but got them to stick. I put the motor back in its housing, shaft pin back in, rollers back, etc., benchtested it and it spun right away.

I left the outside housing loose for now because I don't need the pump under the car anymore right now, so I am not 100% sure whether the leak is cured, but it can't be worse.

For those hunting for d-jet pumps, look under the older Nissan 280Z in a scrapyard. As far as I can tell, they are the identical Bosch pumps. I scored one a while ago. The only differences that I can see is that:
1 - They do have wax/plastic dripped on the terminals to seal the connectors
2 - there seems to be a restrictor in the outlet pipe (the one on the back of the pump) that I did not see in the 350SL pump that I got.

I'll try to post pictures sometime.

Hope this helps.

Bert

Great job Bert,

1) Did you note the o-ring sizes you used? Can you report?
2) You can try doing a pressure test with air. That is what I did when I found the leaking terminal. I had the air pump you are using for a mountain bike shock connected with one port with hose/pump and plugged the other port.

Martin

[aships]

Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum, but let's see:
I've come just about as far as you, Sjefke/Bert, with disassembling my 0580464005 fuel pump off my w114 /8 280 CE. Since new ones are over 250,- euros as far as I found, I started to take the old one apart: It had built up so much resistance that the pump kept blowing out my fuse. It turned out it was leaking so much that part of the internals weren't flooded with petrol and therefore started to rust and locked-up.
I got the covers and housing off, got the little "gear" wheel of the axle, as well as the little pin holding the "gear" wheel on the axle. (I also removed the carbon brushes to the coil). I thought it should be possible to take out the axle with the copper coil, but it seems stuck. before I force it and probably break something I can't fix, could you tell me whether the main axle should come out just like that, or am I missing something? I would like to get the axle out before I start de-soldering the electrical connections, especially since I suspect that it is a bearing issue, assuming there is some kind of bearing for the main axle in the "top-housing".
Thanks in advance for any help, Kind Regards, Arno

[anilasher]

Bought a 280SEL 4.5 parts car recently but it has potential to be a driver. First step was to try and get some fuel to the engine but the pump was dead. I've taken just the top apart, cleaned the vanes, rotor and got the motor spinning again. Waiting for new orings to arrive.

The motor requires a little bit of force to turn manually. Should it spin freely by hand or is some resistance expected?

[Graham]

Originally Posted by anilasher

The motor requires a little bit of force to turn manually. Should it spin freely by hand or is some resistance expected?

I recall there being some resistance. While you have it apart, you might try flushing the passage through the motor. As you probably know, the fuel flows through the motor to cool it, so there could be some gumming up internally.

Hope you took pictures of how that pump head came apart

[anilasher]

Didn't take the picture or mark the parts in my haste. Now I'm hunting for pictures or hints online to confirm how it goes back together

[ejboyd5]

In many instances leakage at the terminals can be cured with an application of Loctite 209 (green). Be sure to let it cure fully before a trial run.

[Graham]

Originally Posted by anilasher

Didn't take the picture or mark the parts in my haste. Now I'm hunting for pictures or hints online to confirm how it goes back together

There are some pictures on Benzworld and maybe here too that show the internals of the pump incorrectly assembled.

This thread explains. There is an indent on side of pump that helps in alignment.

If you decide you need a new pump, try and avoid cheap Airtex pumps as well as pumps for later k-jets. The djet pump is a lower pressure pump and has internal pressure relief to protect the hose clamped fuel system. Bosch have a new version of the dJet pump, but not stocked much here, but can be found on Euro/UK eBay sites. You can use a pump from a Nissan 280Z (late 70's?). They are sometimes available new on eBay for about $250. Pump appears same as our originals and many have used them.

[werminghausen]

Hi everyone interested in D-Jet pumps. With my second W109 (4.5 engine) I went another round and I was able to a) understand the d-jet pumps and b) renovate the one I had.
Background was my replacement pump that was not a long term solution because it killed the pressure regulator over time. The higher pressures or pressure waves of the modern pump were too much of a strain for the original pressure regulator (which gave up at some point) AND/OR the new pump had no internal pressure regulator which the old D-Jet pumps have.

That said you must be really careful replacing the pump with something as good as the original pump if you have to replace it.
Good replacements for a d-jet pump are:
Bosch 0580 464 013 (3 bar L-Jetronic for BMW) or
Pierburg 7.21287.53.0 (3 bar).

I still think the best solution is to rebuild the old pumps. That is some effort especially to rebuild the regulator valve and the check valve properly.
Out of curiosity I got into this and now I claim I can rebuild these pumps.

Best, Martin

[werminghausen]

Hi everyone interested in D-Jet pumps. With my second W109 (4.5 engine) I went another round and I was able to a) understand the d-jet pumps and b) renovate the one I had.
Background was my replacement pump that was not a long term solution because it killed the pressure regulator over time. The higher pressures or pressure waves of the modern pump were too much of a strain for the original pressure regulator (which gave up at some point) AND/OR the new pump had no internal pressure regulator which the old D-Jet pumps have.

That said you must be really careful replacing the pump with something as good as the original pump if you have to replace it.
Good replacements for a d-jet pump are:
Bosch 0580 464 013 (3 bar L-Jetronic for BMW) or
Pierburg 7.21287.53.0 (3 bar).

I still think the best solution is to rebuild the old pumps. That is some effort especially to rebuild the regulator valve and the check valve properly.
Out of curiosity I got into this and now I claim I can rebuild these pumps.

Best, Martin

[Graham]

Martin, The best pump that is still available, is the Nissan pump part no. 17011-P7211. This can be found on eBay or through on-line Nissan dealers. It is identical to the original Bosch Djet pump. I believe it was made by a Bosch related company in Japan. I have one as my spare, but my 72 pump is still working fine.

Pelican here, lists two pumps that will also work. An MB pump and a Bosch pump (they are same except for price and accessories included) You may have to use something like 1973 450SL to find them. Nissan pump is a better choice.

[Tony H]

The 3.5 pump has 3 ports, the 4.5 pump has 2 ports-not the same pump.

[Graham]

Originally Posted by Tony H

The 3.5 pump has 3 ports, the 4.5 pump has 2 ports-not the same pump.

Sorry! I didn't realize some early MB Djets had used the 3-port pump.

Porsche and VW Djets did. Many owners of those cars have converted to the 2-port pumps.

It is very simple. Just eliminate the tee on the suction line where the 3rd port returns.

You then have
Tank-->Damper-->pumpinlet-->filter-->fuelrail-->regulator-->damper--> tankreturnline-->Tank.

The return line could be split near the tank so some fuel returns to pump inlet tee, but not neccessary.