Trouble finding 1971 220 (W115) Stromberg carburetor parts
 

Anyone know where I can find the o-rings or a rebuild kit for a 1971 220 (W115) Stromberg 175CD carburetor, besides Mercedes Classic?

Thanks.

Do a google search on the rebuild kit, lots of hits.

What o-rings do you need?
 

That is a very simple (elegant) carb and there aren't very many o-rings used.

Do you have fuel leakage from the needle seat in the bottom of the float bowl?

You could try a generic metric o-ring kit. I got one for three bucks. It's helped out enough that it's more than worth it.

I tore the small o-ring that goes on the fuel shutoff valve. I bought two o-rings at my local Napa store and they work, but they are slightly over sized. Where did you find the metric o-ring kit?

Thanks.

I just ordered these from MB recently
 

Why mess around with these un-sanctioned substitutions when you can just order the part. The o-ring may have cost a few dollars, but it was certainly less than $10.

When I did this replacement, I got two o-rings, but I think I only used one. Since you have the solenoid shutoff valve, yours is probably the same as on my '73.

The P/N should be: 000 071 2160 $4.20

I removed the carb to change this which may or not have been necessary. There is a spring-loaded piece on top of the solenoid shutoff valve, and I'm not sure if that stays in place if you remove the shutoff valve entirely. So you might check that out.

Anyway, you might also consider getting the float bowl cover gasket as well just in case.

P/N: 000 071 4680 $7.80

Incidentally, that o-ring gets dry over the decades and tends to leak or get torn easily as you saw.

Be very careful with the solenoid shutoff wire as it is aged and very fragile. You must disconnect using the single pin connector that may be tucked under the air intake setup. Disconnect and coil it up carefully before turning the shutoff valve or the you'll need to do surgery on the shutoff valve to fix a broken wire.

Excellent words of advice. I don't think my shutoff valve works. When I applied 12 volts to it there was no noise or movement of any kind.

Can the fuel shutoff be rebuilt?

Where did you buy your o-rings from?

I ordered from MB dealer
 

It would be wise to check your VIN in the MB database as there are a few variations with the needle seat/shutoff valve and there was a crossover point in the early engines.

I assume that you have an automatic trans. The crossover point appears to be a pretty early engine number:

115.920-12-006995

The last series of numbers ID's the S/N. The 115.920 ID's the engine type, 4-cyl 220 & the -12- is the auto trans.

Anyway, my recollection is that stock was Germany, which takes about 1 week to get. Aside from that crossover point, those two P/N's should be the ticket as the crossover is the same for the gasket & the o-ring.

On the shutoff valve, what has probably happened is that the wire is broken. This tends to happen pretty close to the solenoid as it sits above the exhaust manifold.

Given that you have this, I would definitely recommend taking the carb off which is pretty easy. It will also give you a chance to see if you've got a leaky rubber mounting flange. This is the part that the carb bolts directly to and acts to dampen shock/vibration to the carb.

If you need a new rubber mount flange, which is very easy to replace after the carb is off, I can say that Febi makes a replacement that can be had for ~$20. These flanges do tend to develop cracks/vacuum leaks over decades of service.

The most important part in taking the carb off is to mark ALL the hoses. There are ten hoses (I think) all mounted on a carb about the size of your two hands clasped together. Just use masking or blue painters tape & label IN, OUT, FRNT, BCK, MID, etc to keep them straight.

The four special bolts to the rubber mount flange then gets the carb off. Once you've got that thing off, you can do your o-ring more safely. You don't want to cross-thread the shutoff valve which has a very fine thread into the pot-metal casting. You'll also be able to clean the carb & the float chamber.

You can troubleshoot the shutoff valve as a a unit by applying +12V to the wire and ground to the metal part of the shutoff valve. Gently wiggle around the wire in the vicinity of where it pokes into the solenoid an I think you'll find the open/broken circuit. Hopefully you've got enough wire to do a solder joint & heat-shrink tubing surgery on. Once you've fixed one of these, you know to treat them very gently. Always disconnect the push-pin connector before tweaking the mixture or you risk breaking the aged wire.

Has anyone purchased a carburetor rebuild kit for the 175CD Stromberg that worked well? If so, where did you purchase it from?

Bob

Is the carburetor rebuild kit sold for the Triumph TR4 (Stromberg 175CD) interchangeable?

Would one of these rebuild kits work for my 220?

TR 6,7,8 kit
http://www.englishparts.com/products/Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit-MGB-75-80--TR6-69-76--TR7-TR8;-STROMBERG-175CDS-KIT/8209/366- 250.html

TR 2,3,4 kit
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29128#106

TR 4A kit


Thanks,
Bob

I really don't know the answer whether the English 175CD kits will work. I have had Triumphs and tried to rebuild those carbs, so I am somewhat familiar with them. I don't know very much about the German version, except for seeing a few cars in junkyards with them, and they look somewhat different, although the general principal is the same. My guess is that they are different enough for the kits not to interchange, but that's just a guess. The English version is inch based, and the German is most likely metric, for starters.