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#1
06-07-2011, 09:37 PM
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Should I buy it? '77 240D been in storage
Due to my addiction to Craig's List I recently spotted a 1977 240D, auto, that has been in storage. I love my 300SDL but I've always wanted a 240D, to keep my speeding in check and all.
 I am going to look at it tomorrow so here is what I have found out so far. The car has been in a garage (no proper storage prep) for over 10 years now but was running when put away. The body is excellent; no rust at all, decent paint, all trim/chrome is good. The interior is sun faded and dash is cracked. It has 147k miles on it but had a rebuilt engine installed prior to storage. The rear wheels are locked up, I presume the brakes are shot. The asking price is $850 but I am guessing I can get it for $500 and I have the means to transport it on a flat bed. I am thinking that it will need brakes, brake lines, fuel lines/filters, all fluids, transmission seals, belts, hoses, battery, radiator, and a raccoon eviction. I've never purchased a car that has been sitting like this so what should I look for when I go to see it? What would be a deal breaker? Do you think it will cost me a fortune? I was hoping to spend around $2k to get it back on the road.
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?
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#2
06-07-2011, 09:59 PM
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If it is rust free, then it is a great buy. I would buy it in a "heartbeat" Put a hot battery in it and if it has been in "inside" storage, don't be surprised if it fires up. It probably is not driveable, but some work on those brakes, you might check the emergency brake, a knob that you can pull on the left side of the dash. But then go over the systems and get it all running right. Change the fluids, put in new antifreeze, bleed the brakes, check the transmission, adjust the engine valves and you will have a delightful, (maybe slow) economy car. Not to difficult to get 26 to 30 mpg out of it.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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#3
06-07-2011, 10:28 PM
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I hate rust so that's exactly why I want it.
Thanks for the input!
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?
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#4
06-07-2011, 10:33 PM
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I think your assessment of what it's going to need is probably pretty accurate. Seals and gaskets may or may not be bad, so I'd drive it a bit and see what leaks before proceeding. If you can get it for $500 I'd say you're getting a pretty good deal.
I remember when one time in the Navy we pulled a Humvee out of a warehouse after about 17 years. It looked beautiful (at least as far as Humvees go), but it leaked every fluid it had.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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#5
06-08-2011, 10:07 AM
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I am not popping your bubble but I want you to understand what you are getting into.
"The car has been in a garage (no proper storage prep) for over 10 years now but was running when put away. " If I only had a nickle for every time I heard this. Here's the cold, hard fact. If YOU didn't see it running when it was put away, then it wasn't! "It has 147k miles on it but had a rebuilt engine installed prior to storage." Ummm, no it doesn't and no it didn't. Does ANYBODY on this board know of a worn out Mercedes diesel at 147,000 miles? Odometer failure is common for these cars. If they said 237,000 it would be a stretch, at 337,000 I'd believe it with no hesitation. "The rear wheels are locked up, I presume the brakes are shot." Pretty common. The rear and possibly front calipers are rusted full open. Many times you can cure the problem for at least transportation with the liberal use of a rust buster product and some prying. Eventually, sooner rather than later, you'll be replacing the calipers due to rust on the pistons. "Do you think it will cost me a fortune? I was hoping to spend around $2k to get it back on the road." All together guys, "There is no more expensive Benz than a "cheap" Benz." $2K should cover MOST of the stuff you are going to need. What do you intend to do? Restore it? Then no, it's not a good deal. Drive it and enjoy it? Then go for it. Last edited by Mike D; 06-08-2011 at 10:48 AM.
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#6
06-08-2011, 10:31 AM
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Good advice - $2000 should about cover it , maybe , hopefully .
that's $2000 and say 6 months depending on how much time you can devote. Then consider how your patience will wear down - it happens to everyone the joy and thrill of turning wrenches , busting your knuckle etc etc Did anyone consider that 240 for sale in UTAH ? He listed it recently , seems like a nice car and useable !  I'm sure there is enough maintenance items to keep any "shade tree" mechanic fiddling around .
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#7
06-08-2011, 10:50 AM
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1977 240D
Is the car an auto or standard? are the windows power or crank? I wonder how bad the vacume system leaks. This is the first year of the 123 corect? No rust get it.
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1976 240D 1976 240D parts car 1970 220D daily driver
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#8
06-08-2011, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
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#9
06-08-2011, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Not on the 240D. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles
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#10
06-08-2011, 12:06 PM
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locked brake
I've had luck pulling the two bolts that hold the caliper and prying it off.
Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles
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#11
06-08-2011, 07:50 PM
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Well it turned out not to be the car for me.
A great project car due to the excellent body but more of a project than I was looking for. Guy dropped his price to $600 without me even haggling, he just wants it gone. If anyone is looking for a resto project or a nice parts car then let me know and I can pass the info on. It is listed on the Detroit Craig's List if you want to look it up. Thanks for all the help!
__________________
1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?
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#12
06-12-2011, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
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Finn John -- Albany, Ore. www.offbeatoregon.com 76 Merc 300D, sky-blue, *86k, for driving 84 Jaguar XJ6, black, 245k, for restoring someday 71 Merc 408, 2.3 petrol 4, Avon caravan conversion (UK), RHD
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#13
06-12-2011, 05:25 PM
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Tires too probably
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)
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#14
06-12-2011, 06:32 PM
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I have a 1975 240D i bought last month which had sat for 8 years . It runs nicely and the brakes etc are all good .I would restore it but the car itself is rotten and it only has 81,000 on the clock. a shame really... but the engine will live on in my W110 station wagon.
Any car that has sat for a length of time should be gone through from front to rear just for safeties sake.
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#15
06-13-2011, 04:42 PM
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I just did almost the same thing - $500 240d - hasn't run in forever. Here is a list of things to do when bringing one back from the dead.
DONT GET IN A HURRY! Take your time and do these steps before trying to drive it to alaska and back. 1) change oil 2) flush rad 3) change tranny fluid and filter 4) The gas tank is going to be NASTY NASTY NASTY - when diesel gets old an algie gets in there and eats it up - the waste product from this algie is TAR - there will be an inch or more of tar on the bottom of the tank - and it will be in the fuel lines and god forbid the injection pump - usually though the pumps are OK. You will want to have the tank professionally cleaned ($300 to $350) 5) replace fuel filters and ALL rubber fuel lines 6) replace all 4 calipers and lines - replace pads too - you may need to replace MC as well 7) flush all old brake fluid - it gathers water after a while and will boil off in nothing flat 8) CHECK THE FLEX DISCS! These are rubber parts and explode violently when they let go - they are only about $30 to $45 each and easy to replace 9) check all rubber parts, tires, hoses, lines etc. replace any that are cracked 10) battery - a good battery is only good for 5 years - if its been sitting for 10 it wont work 11) - set valves and adjust timing Finally - start the car believe it or not - if you have done all of this (order isn't that important) the car will start up and should run for a good long time. ** Other things to examine or worry about Rear axel CV boots - the CV joints come filled with oil from the factory - if the boots deteriorate the oil will leak out. Wheel bearings - these can rust in place rear anti-sway bar links - these links deteriorate and pop off - this lets the sway bar rub the inside of the wheel making the worst noise you have ever heard. Check em.
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