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  #1  
Old 07-29-2011, 03:37 PM
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W109, 3.5: Front right brake caliper is rattling sometimes

When I press the brake pedal very sudden and hard then the right front caliper is vibrating very much I can hear a loud rattling sound. If I had ABS I'd say it is a super loud ABS situation. But honestly I don't know what the reason for the vibration is.
I don't think the caliper is loose.
I have the car ready for shipping and i need to drive 300 miles on Monday. No tools any more.
Do you think this is critical?

Martin
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  #2  
Old 07-30-2011, 08:44 AM
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It wouldn't be the caliper as it is a "fixed" mount. It could be a sign of the caliper sticking though. The "rattle" is probably a piston not extending or extending unequally allowing the brake pad to vibrate.

Lift the side making the noise, remove the wheel, have a helper press the brake pedal and check the pads both with pressure for both of them to engage tightly and without pressure to see if they both retract evenly.

It could also be a hard spot on the rotor. Did the problem occur suddenly or have you noticed it for a while?
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2011, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
It wouldn't be the caliper as it is a "fixed" mount. It could be a sign of the caliper sticking though. The "rattle" is probably a piston not extending or extending unequally allowing the brake pad to vibrate.

Lift the side making the noise, remove the wheel, have a helper press the brake pedal and check the pads both with pressure for both of them to engage tightly and without pressure to see if they both retract evenly.

It could also be a hard spot on the rotor. Did the problem occur suddenly or have you noticed it for a while?
Thanks Mike.
I guess you are right with the caliper.
I noticed the vibration for a while but not that often.
If I press the brake pedal slowly it is not happening, only if I press it fast and hard.
I recently changed the pads and had partially a hard time to push the piston back in order to make room for the new pads. I also saw that the rubber around the piston was broken.

Is there a way to renovate the old calipers or do I need the change them?
Is there a good place where I can get rebuilt calipers?
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  #4  
Old 07-30-2011, 11:53 AM
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It's easiest to replace the calipers. You can rebuild them but if the pistons are rusted then you're into it for more money than buying rebuilt ones.

Fastlane has them. You might plan on new rubber lines while you are in there.

You say you are shipping the car? Have you sold it or are you moving?

You can find cheaper rebuilds at ********, O'Reilly's, Autozoo, etc. but if you're keeping the car then I'd recommend using the quality ones from Fastlane.

ALWAYS, and I mean, ALWAYS, replace in pairs! A new caliper, conversely enough, requires more pressure than an old caliper (seals are tight, tolerances are minimal, etc.) and the resulting pressure difference can and usually will result in the old caliper blowing out.
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2011, 11:43 PM
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I ordered new calipers and I hope that this will solve the problem.
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2011, 02:02 PM
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I changed the front calipers but the rattle is still there!
As I said the rattle (almost like ABS but more intense) is just when I really push the pedal very fast.
The brake is vibrating and it makes a horrible round. And the braking power is almost not there. Typically if this happens I release the pedal and step on again less sharp and it works.
What is this sound?
Martin

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Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
I ordered new calipers and I hope that this will solve the problem.
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2011, 02:30 PM
BRM BRM is offline
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What condition are the wheel bearings in?

also, what condition are your brake lines in? as a matter of safety you should consider replacing them too, even the metal ones. The metal line from the master to your right side goes under the battery and is in a spot that collects debris and moisture, perfect for rust.
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2011, 03:51 PM
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does your model have guide rods/mounts? If so it could be the rattle
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2011, 04:09 PM
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Check to see if the splash shields are loose. Three socket head screws to tighten.

Did you replace the pads?

Check to see if the kingpins are loose. JAck up the front end a little and use a prybar on the underside of the tire.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:27 AM
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Thanks
Not sure about the wheel bearings. But I think they are all right. At least I never experience abnormal slack. I could take the wheels off and pull/push with a dial gauge...Was the play around 0.02mm?
I think I have enough pressure on the metal line...if corrosion would damage the line I should loose brake fluid..correct?


Quote:
Originally Posted by BRM View Post
What condition are the wheel bearings in?

also, what condition are your brake lines in? as a matter of safety you should consider replacing them too, even the metal ones. The metal line from the master to your right side goes under the battery and is in a spot that collects debris and moisture, perfect for rust.
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  #11  
Old 12-30-2011, 06:29 AM
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kingpin on a W109? how can I check these?

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Originally Posted by newtodiesel View Post
does your model have guide rods/mounts? If so it could be the rattle
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2011, 06:32 AM
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Rattle and effects are so strong that I doubt it can be splash shields.
I replaced pads.
I guess the kingpins could be the cause. Are the kingpins expensive parts?
What needs to be replaced exactly?
Martin




Quote:
Originally Posted by wbain5280 View Post
Check to see if the splash shields are loose. Three socket head screws to tighten.

Did you replace the pads?

Check to see if the kingpins are loose. JAck up the front end a little and use a prybar on the underside of the tire.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2011, 11:29 AM
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I may have a similar vibration in my right front wheel. Especially at high speeds when I brake, I feel a vibration. I suspect wheel bearing or brake disc warpage, but would be curious to see what your problem is. Try replacing (or resurfacing) your brake disc and see what happens.

Bert
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2011, 11:44 AM
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You'd better check the runout first. The spindle nut should only tight enough for the outer washer to rotate and the hub and rotor should barely move. Make sure the hex socket bolt is tight.

Bushings could also be a problem.

Is the lateral support rod still in one piece and attached?
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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2011, 01:35 PM
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Thanks Warren,
I don't know what 'runout' you mean. Are you talking about the wheel bearing spindle? Or the brake disc runout? Wheel bearing spindle?
Can you explain. I'll follow you.
Martin



Quote:
Originally Posted by wbain5280 View Post
You'd better check the runout first. The spindle nut should only tight enough for the outer washer to rotate and the hub and rotor should barely move. Make sure the hex socket bolt is tight.

Bushings could also be a problem.

Is the lateral support rod still in one piece and attached?
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