|
|
|
|
|
#1
07-29-2011, 03:37 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
W109, 3.5: Front right brake caliper is rattling sometimes
When I press the brake pedal very sudden and hard then the right front caliper is vibrating very much I can hear a loud rattling sound. If I had ABS I'd say it is a super loud ABS situation. But honestly I don't know what the reason for the vibration is.
I don't think the caliper is loose. I have the car ready for shipping and i need to drive 300 miles on Monday. No tools any more. Do you think this is critical? Martin 
|
|
#2
07-30-2011, 08:44 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
It wouldn't be the caliper as it is a "fixed" mount. It could be a sign of the caliper sticking though. The "rattle" is probably a piston not extending or extending unequally allowing the brake pad to vibrate.
Lift the side making the noise, remove the wheel, have a helper press the brake pedal and check the pads both with pressure for both of them to engage tightly and without pressure to see if they both retract evenly. It could also be a hard spot on the rotor. Did the problem occur suddenly or have you noticed it for a while?
|
|
#3
07-30-2011, 09:20 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I guess you are right with the caliper. I noticed the vibration for a while but not that often. If I press the brake pedal slowly it is not happening, only if I press it fast and hard. I recently changed the pads and had partially a hard time to push the piston back in order to make room for the new pads. I also saw that the rubber around the piston was broken. Is there a way to renovate the old calipers or do I need the change them? Is there a good place where I can get rebuilt calipers?
|
|
#4
07-30-2011, 11:53 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
It's easiest to replace the calipers. You can rebuild them but if the pistons are rusted then you're into it for more money than buying rebuilt ones.
Fastlane has them. You might plan on new rubber lines while you are in there. You say you are shipping the car? Have you sold it or are you moving? You can find cheaper rebuilds at ********, O'Reilly's, Autozoo, etc. but if you're keeping the car then I'd recommend using the quality ones from Fastlane. ALWAYS, and I mean, ALWAYS, replace in pairs! A new caliper, conversely enough, requires more pressure than an old caliper (seals are tight, tolerances are minimal, etc.) and the resulting pressure difference can and usually will result in the old caliper blowing out.
|
|
#5
07-30-2011, 11:43 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I ordered new calipers and I hope that this will solve the problem.
|
|
#6
12-29-2011, 02:02 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I changed the front calipers but the rattle is still there!
As I said the rattle (almost like ABS but more intense) is just when I really push the pedal very fast. The brake is vibrating and it makes a horrible round. And the braking power is almost not there. Typically if this happens I release the pedal and step on again less sharp and it works. What is this sound? Martin Quote:
|
|
#7
12-29-2011, 02:30 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
What condition are the wheel bearings in?
also, what condition are your brake lines in? as a matter of safety you should consider replacing them too, even the metal ones. The metal line from the master to your right side goes under the battery and is in a spot that collects debris and moisture, perfect for rust.
|
|
#8
12-29-2011, 03:51 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
does your model have guide rods/mounts? If so it could be the rattle
__________________
|
|
#9
12-29-2011, 04:09 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Check to see if the splash shields are loose. Three socket head screws to tighten.
Did you replace the pads? Check to see if the kingpins are loose. JAck up the front end a little and use a prybar on the underside of the tire.
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
|
|
#10
12-30-2011, 06:27 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks
Not sure about the wheel bearings. But I think they are all right. At least I never experience abnormal slack. I could take the wheels off and pull/push with a dial gauge...Was the play around 0.02mm? I think I have enough pressure on the metal line...if corrosion would damage the line I should loose brake fluid..correct? Quote:
|
|
#11
12-30-2011, 06:29 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
kingpin on a W109? how can I check these?
Quote:
|
|
#12
12-30-2011, 06:32 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Rattle and effects are so strong that I doubt it can be splash shields.
I replaced pads. I guess the kingpins could be the cause. Are the kingpins expensive parts? What needs to be replaced exactly? Martin Quote:
|
|
#13
12-30-2011, 11:29 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I may have a similar vibration in my right front wheel. Especially at high speeds when I brake, I feel a vibration. I suspect wheel bearing or brake disc warpage, but would be curious to see what your problem is. Try replacing (or resurfacing) your brake disc and see what happens.
Bert
__________________
'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold '63 MGB '73 MGBGT V8
|
|
#14
12-30-2011, 11:44 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
You'd better check the runout first. The spindle nut should only tight enough for the outer washer to rotate and the hub and rotor should barely move. Make sure the hex socket bolt is tight.
Bushings could also be a problem. Is the lateral support rod still in one piece and attached?
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
|
|
#15
12-31-2011, 01:35 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks Warren,
I don't know what 'runout' you mean. Are you talking about the wheel bearing spindle? Or the brake disc runout? Wheel bearing spindle? Can you explain. I'll follow you. Martin Quote:
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
