W123 drivers door lock Q?
 

hello again.

could not find my answer on any other door lock questions...

issue:
can not push the drivers door lock down.
Issue 2:
when inputing the key and turn left and right, it is just free movement. i can not feel anything engaging... is this normal? when turning the key my other locks do not go up or down.

circled in green, this part does not move. is it supposed to move?
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...doorlock-1.jpg

Issue one.

Drivers lock down?

As in on the passenger's side push inside lock down - close door - and door is locked...

Nope none are made to do that on the driver's side. Reason being you could lock your keys inside the car - the door lock doesn't know if your key is in your pocket or not.

(I could however get hold of a door lock for the front of the car from England for you and it will enable you to do this then!)

Issue two

Do you have central locking fitted to your car?

haha

drivers lock stuck up

by central locking you mean turn the key and the vacuum drives the other locks down? when i open the drivers door panel, i see the 3 way t vacuum fitting so i would presume yes. (i am assuming that if i turn the key from the door handle to the open position, it is supposed to lock/unlock all doors) if it is different than i just described please correct me..

let me double check in an hour here that if i do close the drivers door and try to lock (counterclockwise) if it works or not.

thanks

-Jimmy

alright so the lock comes down when door is closed, but i can not lock the door or doors from outside the car. there is a little resistance in the key just past the verticle position in both directions, but then nothing happens.

let me know if you have any suggestions.

no takers on this issue?!!!

New (to you) car? Have you tried that key in the trunk, passenger door, or glovebox?

Maybe the key isn't for the doors. Replacing the ignition in W123's of a certain vintage is a time honored tradition. It usually occurs right after the ignition fails and leaves you stuck.

If this is the case and you have a key for ignition and none for the doors, AND your door locks are factory, you should be able to have the dealer cut you a new key based on VIN. I think it's about $10-20 for just a key.

Or, if you don't know the age of the ignition and you want a single-key option for opening and starting AND you know the door/trunk locks are original, then you can order a VIN-matched ignition and key set for around $100.

You will have to remove the door panel and physically look at the mechanism to see if anything is broken in the linkage. You may find something broken, maybe not. It may be in the drivers door cylinder, in which case you should exchange the passenger side cylinder with the drivers side. It's usually the drivers side which goes bad as it is used much more often than the passenger side.

If you close the drivers door and leave the rear seat drivers door open and you push down the front drivers lock down do the other locks go down? If not then you have a vacuum issue. They are all slaved to the drivers door.

key works for the trunk, takes a bit to get it join, but i may just get the replacement key for the sake of opening the door locks and trunk. i actually just ordered a replacement tumbler and key set for the ignition.

i will run this test on the way out. so if there is a leak, it will put the whole loop into a sort of fail safe?

I think Yak's probably right. It sounds like the key you have isn't quite right or the lock's worn.

Ok so testing complete and I have found the following:
drivers door closed, push lock down and nothing happens to the other locks.

Tested all door actuators for leaks, and found that on the right side open line, there is a leak. I haven't traced it to where its coming from yet, but I am determined to find it Tomorrow.

Tested passenger side lock assy, and it locks unlock properly. This must mean that if the driver side is not locking unlocking at the turn of the key, it must be worn out. This will be expensive from the dealer i take it? What piece do you think I need to replace?

no takers?

There are one or two threads on rebuilding the lock or replacing the tumbler. If the passenger side lock works smoothly, that part may be transferable to the driver's side. Funola's post may help: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/281121-removing-door-lock-tumbler-re-keying.html?highlight=tumbler

If the locks don't move with a manual depressing the driver's side with the door closed, that sounds more like vacuum than mechanical. There are fittings under the front passenger seat carpet. You may want to look there and try to isolate. Since the trunk and filler falp are also on the lock/unlock circuit don't forget about them.

thanks again yak. you and ARMY have helped me out a ton on my recent 79 300D purchace. pretty soon ill post up some pics of my resto that i have started. you wont believe what i bought this thing for. With everything intact, intereior just needs front carpet, needs paint, and AC reinstalled. motor was rebuilt about 10 years back and tranny was rebuilt 5k miles ago.... i paid $500 :):):)

i have a subaru WRX STI race car that i finished building about 6 months ago and i believe i have found a new hobby haha these things are just too much fun for the dollar.

-jimmy