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  #1  
Old 09-11-2011, 06:31 PM
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How do you remove blower motor for 75 300D?

Hi, I tried spinning the heater blower motor with my hand and discovered it barely moves. I will have to remove it. Does anyone know how it comes out? How do you get access to it?

Thanks

Mark
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:21 PM
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Was the car sitting for a long period?

I had this happen on my W115 '73 220.

I was able to get the motor to work again without removing it. I've been told that R&R of this item is a pretty tough job.

I believe that your car is also a W115 chassis. Is this correct?

I can tell you how I got it working again if your interested.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:39 PM
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Yes, please, any help would be appreciated!

Mark
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:26 AM
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sometimes its easier to remove the seat. there are 2 blower motors, one for heat and one for ac. the center console comes out with a few screws. be careful on destroying the 40 year old pastic. sometimes you can grease the blower motors in these cars just by getting this far. or else just remove it, its been about 2 years since ive had one out. but its not too long
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:38 PM
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How to lube the heater blower motor

You will find it helpful to remove the bezel with the louvers inside the car. this will make it easier to turn the fan with a stick poked thru that opening. This is held in with some sheet metal screws in the upper corners behind the louvers. You don't have to remove the louvers, just poke the screwdriver in thru them and have some tweezers or needle-nose to get the screws out. The blower knob will just pull out; it will likely be tight and maybe need some lube, but it does pull directly out. With these things removed, the bezel will come out.

You will need to remove the windshield wiper arms and the air intake cover underneath it. There are about 6 plastic rivets fastening the front edge. Just knock the center pin thru the rivet with a small punch (about 1/8") and pull out the body of the rivets. With the wipers off and the rivets out, you can lift off the air intake cover.

With the cover off, you still can't see the motor, which is underneath the metal you see under the cover. What you can do is drill a hole about 1/4" diam thru the metal so that you can fish an oiler tube down thru the metal to lube the armature of the motor.

With a little lubrication, and some turning of the fan with a stick thru the interior opening, you'll get it softened up enough to turn it with electricity. Keep in mind that you may blow a fuse, so you might want to have some spares, or even foil-bridge the fuse for this purpose. This fuse should be on the passenger side near the firewall under a little cover with a thumbscrew on top. I think it may be a little stubby one, I think there is a regular (long) and a short one in there. Just be careful about trying to drive it too much too early with the electricity as you risk burning the insulation on the motor windings.

Work it a bit, lube it a bit, repeat, etc. and I think you will have good results.

When you get it to sound good at low speed, then you're good. Just plug the 1/4" hole you drilled with a rubber plug.

I searched on EPC for the rivets on that air intake cover and I can't figure out where that cover is hidden. The dealer can find them and they are pretty cheap, maybe $1.50 each or less. You might also want to get new plastic seal cap pieces for the windshield wiper axles; they're pretty cheap too.

For the oiling, a sewing machine oiler is good; the kind with an extendable small hose that pulls out of the bottle; very handy for many things.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:01 AM
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Thanks guys, I was able to remove the blower motor. It was dead. I am now trying to find another motor to use as a substitute. That's a challenge. I hope not to have to give in and spend $450.

I hope i can get everything back together again.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:02 AM
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Adsitco has used heater blowers for $165--if I pull a dash you can have one of mine for $100


Tim Kraakevik
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:48 PM
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Thanks Tim, but I'm a little weary of buying a used blower motor online for $175. They wear out, so I don't know what I'm getting, and the thought of having to pull the car apart again when the used one goes frightens me.

I have a replacement motor now and I just need to find a fan blade that would be a good fit for it.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:51 PM
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Well, looks like the replacement motor I used was not appropriate as it could only operate for 1 minute before shutting down, some kind of thermal protection kicked in.

I have looked at other motors I could buy online, but all of them are a bit too big for the space and none come with fans and finding a fan that fits is a challenge too. Unfortunately, today all heater fans are squirrel cages which doesn't work since in the older Mercedes, the heater fan blows straight out using a bladed fan.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:57 PM
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What about having it reconditioned? I'd speculate that would be less than $450.
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  #11  
Old 09-21-2011, 05:32 PM
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I've had two W115s and have dealt with this problem both times. Unfortunately the only real lasting solution is to pull the dash and heater box (and evacuate the A/C system) and replace the fan motor. What I saw both times was a motor which seized due to lack of use and moisture getting inside. The motor sits in a place where it is easy for water to get to the motor from outside the car. I was able to get the motors working again, but it was a project both times due to burnt brush holders and bushings seized to the motor shaft. Yes, the bushings would turn in the motor, but they were turning against the end plates instead of the shaft turning in the bushing. What I think happens with these motors is they seize due to lack of use, then someone comes along and turns on the switch. Then the brush holders melt because the motor is locked and drawing excessive current. Now, I did get the motors working again, but it isn't a procedure I would use for a paying customer since the bushings and motor shaft are now somewhat corroded and the brush holders are now made of JB Weld with the flexible brush lead simply lying against the brush itself. To properly rebuild one of these motors would entail finding suitable new brushes and having the brush holders made somewhere, as well as being able to fit new bushings on a polished shaft.
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:46 PM
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What I'm going to do is install a blower motor from some car, (cut off the flange) and secure it into the shroud somehow and mount the old fan onto the new shaft (somehow)

I can get a brand new blower motor for $55.

I thought of using one of those extremely powerful CPU fans that can push out 200 cfm but I figured those things may not be engineered to be exposed to sub-freezing temperatures like my car will be in the winter when it gets to minus -20 C. I'm afraid a computer fan might not be able to take the abuse of being, essentially, outside.

Once i get it all done, I will post a photo of the result so that others may do the same to avoid the mega cost of a OEM mercedes blower motor.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:12 AM
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Drilling the hoke and lubricating is a great tip! Mine is almost seized up and I'm trying to resuscitate it... I am reating everything out and still can't get the darn evaporator box out... I'm thinking about trying the suggestion here and seeing what happens! Ps does anyone here know where to find the vacuum diaphragms for the actuators for a reasonable amount?
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