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  #1  
Old 10-12-2011, 02:32 PM
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Trans flush recommendations?

Are transmission flushes recommended for Mercedes transmissions? I've read posts where there was some damage done afterward as a result of a flush.
a recommended method or chemicals?

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  #2  
Old 10-12-2011, 02:51 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean by flush. I drain the transmission fluid from the transmission and the torque converter and refill with Dextron III (no particular brand) and i've never had trouble, On the 722.3 cars, I've sometimes had problems getting the rubber seal on the transmission pan to seal with after market seals so it may be worth buying a genuine seal,
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:15 PM
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No "power flush" if that's what you're asking. There are some machines which use the pressure generated by the pump itself and they filter and "re-cycle" the fluid. You still need to change your filter so I don't know what benefit they could have.

A transmission fluid change and filter is all you should ever need. No extra chemicals.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:21 PM
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Are you talking about a BG products trans flush? My local MB dealer advertises BG stuff, so I'm guessing they do the trans and coolant flushes.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:23 PM
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If you will change it and the filter about every 30k miles it will go for a long, long time.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:33 PM
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I've seen them hook it up to a machine and flush. new fluid and filter in the end...?
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:03 PM
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Because you can drain the torque converter on the 722.1 you really don't need to use a flushing machine. By just doing a normal service you get most of the fluid changed. On most autoboxes you can't drain the torque converter so when you do a service you only change a fraction of it.

-J
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:31 PM
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The flush machines are needed for vehicles like my 300M - no torque converter drain plug, but you can work around it. For example, drain the pan and replace the filter, put in fresh fluid, cut the line to the trans cooler and put the outlet in a jar. Put the inlet in a fresh can of ATF. Start the car & run until clear fluid comes out the draining end, then splice or replace the line.

The machines typically just take the place of starting the engine in the process, and use pressure. It can damage seals in the trans, because the inlet is usually pulling versus being pushed.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
drain the pan and replace the filter, put in fresh fluid, cut the line to the trans cooler and put the outlet in a jar. Put the inlet in a fresh can of ATF. Start the car & run until clear fluid comes out the draining end, then splice or replace the line.
That is a good idea.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy View Post
The flush machines are needed for vehicles like my 300M - no torque converter drain plug, but you can work around it. For example, drain the pan and replace the filter, put in fresh fluid, cut the line to the trans cooler and put the outlet in a jar. Put the inlet in a fresh can of ATF. Start the car & run until clear fluid comes out the draining end, then splice or replace the line.

The machines typically just take the place of starting the engine in the process, and use pressure. It can damage seals in the trans, because the inlet is usually pulling versus being pushed.
that is what I was wary of...I think the change will suffice
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:41 PM
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Other flush machines are just a fancy bucket... the trans' pump does the work and the "machine" just provides clean fluid in one line and collects the old fluid coming out of the other.

-J
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  #12  
Old 10-13-2011, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Other flush machines are just a fancy bucket... the trans' pump does the work and the "machine" just provides clean fluid in one line and collects the old fluid coming out of the other.

-J
like changing the fluid, but without cracking the seal on the pan, changing the filter, or 40% of the old fluid...lol
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  #13  
Old 10-13-2011, 06:53 AM
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It does get all the old fluid, but you are right, the filter is never touched.

-J
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2011, 12:24 PM
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time draining

Open it up and get the majority, then wait for the remainder.
I let it (converter and valve area) drain for a week.

Observe what comes out for clues.

Most interestingly, the last one I did had clouded oil, (not burnt color) and I put it into a test tube for further settling, no particles!
The detergent factor must keep the stuff in suspension.

Write the date on the new filter with a sharpie for the next time next guy's reference.
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  #15  
Old 10-13-2011, 12:50 PM
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I thought all the "flush" machines did was exchange the fluid. On our Odyssey the manual says to change the fluid 3 times with a short run time between changes to get all the old fluid out. Each fill takes about 7 quarts so there is quite a bit of fluid that cannot just be drained out.

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