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  #1  
Old 10-12-2011, 03:44 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 798
114 Ignition Switch Problems

The ignition switch on my '75 280 suddenly engages the starter when turned to the run position rather than when the key is turned beyond the detent to the normal starting position. The starter turns and disengages normally when jumpered at the terminals under the hood.

I've never had an ignition switch go bad in the six 114's I've owned since the '70's--has anyone had this problem?


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Four 114's, Four M110's
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2011, 04:36 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Yup, I've had a couple go bad in one fashion or the other. The plastic cracks and the terminals go all ka-wonky. Aggravating repair but not hard.

Pull the gauge console for the easiest access. You're gonna lose some skin from the backs of your hands. I use a short ratcheting screwdriver to access the three retaining screws. Getting them started is a real hoot also. Enjoy.
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2011, 05:53 PM
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I replaced the ignition switch using a thumbwheel ratchet and a screwdriver bit--and little threads of rubber band through the fastening screw holes to keep the screws in place during reassembly.

The starter still engages at switch position two instead of past the detent--apparently the starter circuit is being energized by another hot wire downstream--I substituted a relay which also clicks through with the ignition on--as it does on my other 280's.

The starter wire from the harness to the block junction under the hood shows .4 volts DC with the ignition off, so there may be some leakage from the clock circuit--or another nonstandard circuit that's always on.

Many thanks for your suggestions--I'll let you know how I fare


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2011, 09:05 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 36
Have you been working on the ignition switch previously? Sometimes what can happen is that the ignition switches can separate the metal from the plastic. The plastic piece is just pressed into the metal housing and can work loose over time. When this happens it can turn inside the metal housing and throw the sequence off, for example in position 2 it is cranking still instead of starting. I've had this happen on a car I was working on where the previous owner worke don the switch.
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  #5  
Old 10-20-2011, 10:00 AM
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Neither ignition switch was faulty--the starter circuit was being fed by a nonstandard circuit that went hot at position two and triggered the starter--still working on getting the ignition circuit right


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
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  #6  
Old 10-20-2011, 10:34 AM
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Isn't following someone else's work FUN? The P.O. probably had either wired in an alarm or remote start feature.
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