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#1
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Subframe Bolts loose
I have had a low speed clunk in the front end of my W115 for a week or so, and finally got a chance to check it out. The driver's side rear bolt of the subframe took almost 3 full turns, all the other bolts were snug. This seems to have cured the issue
Is just tightening it as it sits ok or do I need to take the weight of the motor off the subframe then tighten? Also I couldn't find any torque specs for these bolts is there one?
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1972 280SE 4.5 |
#2
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I can't recall the exact torque spec for the bolt because I'm snug and warm in bed surrounded by five cats. If I tried to stand and get my 114/115 chassis big pale blue book there would be a mutiny. Four of the cats have the normal eighteen toes apiece and Jack has 24 toes (he's polydactyl) that's a total of about seventy eight angry claws if my mental arithmetic is sound.
Getting back to useful information here... I DO remember trying to undo the front subframe bolts takes a whole mother****er and a half of torque without an impact wrench. Either way they usually shear in a bad place due to corrosion despite your liberal use of PB blaster and propane heat for three full days before you even touch the fist bolt. In a perverse way you're lucky that yours wasn't welded in there with a big lump of oxidized salty read threads. Long story short, I'll look it up for you tomorrow morning if someone else hasn't already. |
#3
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Drop the sub frame and fit new mounts.
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#4
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The mounts look good, is there some other reason to replace them?
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1972 280SE 4.5 |
#5
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Usually the reason it comes loose is one or more bad mounts. Probably 80% of the time, if not more. The bad mounts cause either a bolt or two to come loose, or the lower control arm to snap. Or both.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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