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  #1  
Old 12-19-2011, 01:07 AM
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Removing lifters and ball studs m117

What is the procedure/tool for compressing the valve springs with the cams in the car to remove the lifters without pulling the cams? I'm trying to get some parts from the Pick and Pull and someone stripped the cam tower bolts trying to get the cams out. I'm after some solid ball studs. Is there a difference in lifters between M117 engines including the aluminum engines?
Also wondering will 5.6 cam towers fit 4.5 heads? I think I read there was a slight angle difference in the bolts.
Tks!
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:41 AM
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Not sure about the cam towers but I found the 3.5 rockers to be lighter than the 4.5 ones. I don't remember if there is a difference between the 4.5 ones and the 5.0/5/6 ones. I think they are all interchangeable.

Ideally you would need a special MB tool to compress the valve springs and be able to remove the rockers and then access the ball studs.

In prectice I was able to do the same by putting a small extension accross both valve springs behind the rockers and press them down using a longer extension placed perpendicularly under the camshaft and using it as a lever. You may have the small extension fly a few times but you will make it in the end.

Is that a 4.5 D-jet in the Pick n' pull? If yes and if the injectors are still there I would be interested in them, at least the ones where the blue plastic has not crumbled into pieces.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:39 AM
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If I remember right, the holes where the oilers fit on the towers is a little different between the two towers. I think I have a set of early towers laying around.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:13 PM
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yes it is a Djet. looks complete. If I have time I will go by there this week and pull the injectors if they are not trash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GGR View Post
Not sure about the cam towers but I found the 3.5 rockers to be lighter than the 4.5 ones. I don't remember if there is a difference between the 4.5 ones and the 5.0/5/6 ones. I think they are all interchangeable.

Ideally you would need a special MB tool to compress the valve springs and be able to remove the rockers and then access the ball studs.

In prectice I was able to do the same by putting a small extension accross both valve springs behind the rockers and press them down using a longer extension placed perpendicularly under the camshaft and using it as a lever. You may have the small extension fly a few times but you will make it in the end.

Is that a 4.5 D-jet in the Pick n' pull? If yes and if the injectors are still there I would be interested in them, at least the ones where the blue plastic has not crumbled into pieces.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:31 PM
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Thanks!

They are easier to pull with the fuel rails and I could use the right one.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:57 PM
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I already designed and built a tool for compressing the valve springs-tried it out on my 3.5 sitting in the stand and it works great. Works from either side of the cam. I will let you know about the injectors ASAP.
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:29 AM
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I made my own valve spring compressor years ago and even the mega dollar resto shop next door borrows it.. (dunno why they dont make their own LOL!) .But to answer your question regarding ball studs, you can fit the adjustable ones into all the alloy motor heads if you want adjustable tappets.. but hydraulic ones will never work in the 3.5 and 4.5 iron motor heads.
I have seen a 380 running 3.5 heads but in practice some of the head bolts are in different locations so i would imagine that the cam towers are different.
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:56 AM
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The cam towers are different to my knowledge, as far as bolt patterns.

Also, the alum-block m116/m117 (3.8, 4.2, 5.0 and 5.6) had 10mm cam oiler tubes, whereas the cast-block m116/m117 (3.5 and 4.5) had 8mm cam oiler tubes. Also, there are some differences in the cams; some mechanical cams have the oil groove pathway in the cam itself, some in the tower. I think it was all standardized on the hydraulic cams but I could be wrong. Either way, you don't want to mix those towers with the other cam type.

I heard of a 560SEL that ate its cams & had the cams replaced with the mechanical-stud cams from a 4.5, with the mechanical studs as well. The mechanic said it ran better, but I don't know if better meant smoother or more power, and if better meant before the replacement or compared to a typical 5.6, and never asked. I should have!
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2011, 04:42 PM
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Thanks for all the replys. I want the grab the mech. ball studs because they are there and I may use them eventually for my project. I don't want to rob any parts off my 3.5 engine.
FYI-the K-jet 4.5 heads seem to have smaller combustion chambers than the D-jet 4.5 heads. The K-jet heads do not have a recess where the squish area is-it is flat with the mating surface.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:04 PM
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CAUTION:

There is a difference between cam followers. As I recall, the earlier ones didn't have a chamfer on the outside bottom corner (I think). I don't know exactly what effect using the wrong one will have but this is mentioned in the service manual.
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