PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (
-   Vintage Mercedes Forum (
-   -   A Little Help with Front Suspension-w110 (

Carpenterman 12-20-2011 11:50 PM

A Little Help with Front Suspension-w110
I lowered the front subframe to replace the subframe mounts after removing the brackets that hold the torsion bar and then the leaf springs themselves. After replacing the mounts, the holes in the leaf spring are way out of alignment to the mounting bolts for the bracket and leaf spring (at least one inch to the rear). Should I just loosen the rear engine mount carrier bracket and hoist the subframe forward to align the holes to the bolts (the eccentrics are pretty much already to the rear as far as they will go)? Any other techniques? The body is sitting on a lift and the subframe is on jack stands. The mounts are left loose although there isn't a lot of play. I've left weight on the subframe for a couple of days to let the mounts settle. Still way out of alignment.

I'm kinda sorry I did this job now as the mounts were only half-collapsed and the car tracked well. Now I'm probably looking at an alignment as the caster is most likely compromised. Any down and dirty way to set the caster without going to an alignment shop?

mercmad6.3 12-21-2011 07:10 PM

Not a major problem. loosen the trans mount crossmember .
get a big lever in one of the lower control arms and move the axle assembly back or forth to line the leaf springs up with the bolts. As long as you can see where your leaf springs were originally you can bolt them up using the marks .
Redo the trans crossmember bolts and you will be fine.

The W110 uses a mount bush which is pretty stiff so be prepared for some wrestling.

i have used a small comealong to pull them into line too.

Carpenterman 12-21-2011 10:21 PM

The come-a-long did the trick. Thanks!

t walgamuth 12-22-2011 03:19 AM

Before jumping to the conclusion you need an alignment just for caster, I would probably assume for starters that last time it was set you had decent subframe rubber and this will return it to that situation and just drive it first and see if it has that excellent MB tracking or not.

Carpenterman 12-22-2011 09:33 AM

That makes sense. We'll see what happens when I get the finny back on the road.

newtodiesel 12-24-2011 08:54 PM

I checked your profile, was hoping to see a few picts...good luck w/ the repairs

Carpenterman 12-25-2011 10:21 AM

Here's a few pictures of the car from my first post.
Sorry, no pictures of the repair. My significant other would kill me if I got grease on our camera. Need to buy a shop camera.

The finny is back on the road and thankfully the tracking is as perfect as it was before dropping the subframe. The vibration I had around 60mph is gone. I believe the collapsed transmission mount was causing the flex disc to distort and wobble. New carrier bushing rubber and bearing also helped, I'm sure. I also aligned the rear axle using a jig I made out of copper tubing after replacing the cross brace rubber and trailing arm bushings. Rebuilt calipers and new hoses all round.

I have to say that the finny rides better than the w123. And that's saying something for a 45 year old car.

The last problem I need to solve is some stubborn grease pivots in the front suspension. I can't get three of them to accept grease. I've tried heat and also a tool I bought that drives penetrating oil into the joint. Anyone have any ideas? The joints are still tight and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm hoping I don't have to dissemble the joints to clean them out.

wbain5280 12-25-2011 01:57 PM

Use a heat gun to liquify the old grease. Pump in the new.

Carpenterman 12-25-2011 02:44 PM

I've tried heat to the point where I was afraid of melting the rubber boots. I also removed the zerks to be sure they are clear. I'm thinking there must be rust or road debris in there.

mercmad6.3 12-26-2011 03:25 AM

I have found that removing them is the best way to cure that.
On the knuckles trunnions I support the axe under the lower arm and pull the top bolt out ( mark it first to show where it must go when reinstalling it).Tip the knuckle out and unscrew the threaded sleeve. Give it a good clean and grease it before reinstalling it . It must have clearance so it will feel loose. You can only check these by putting a straight edge on the threads. Any low spots indicates wear.
You can do the bottom sleeve at the same time but in both cases you remember that the sleeves are the fine adjustment for the caster so count the number of times you turn them when removing them.

If you are worried about spring tension, do as I do it, put a spring compressor on the bottom arm lip and the other end on the top arms lip and use it to keep the spring compressed. It makes it easier to pull the king pins etc.
I do this when I am assembling a front end on the bench or in a car with no engine.

Carpenterman 12-26-2011 11:04 AM

[QUOTE=mercmad6.3;2853335]I have found that removing them is the best way to cure that.

Yea, I was afraid of that. The way you describe the procedure it doesn't seem that difficult. I've never had a front suspension apart before.

Damn! just when I had her back on the road and was enjoying the new rubber.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:13 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website