1971 280sl Electronic Ignition Conversion

[toms]

I understand that there is a conversion kit that fits nicely within the distributor cap that can convert to an electronic igintion. Think I have this right. Understand I would get better mileage and more complete combustion. Anyone know the product and the other pros and cons?

[Arthur Dalton]

Petronics makes a point eliminator set up that works on Hall Effect pick-up.
That is the one that fits in the dist.
Crane Cams has an optical switching unit .
I have used and tested both and prefer the Crane . Better spark at start and low rpm
and works fine with the stock coils.
Draw back is there is a switch box that can be seen, where with the hall one there is not.
Both are much better than mechanical points
and they hold the timing tight. Very important on these mechanical injected systems. They are also short $$$.
Arthur

[toms]

Thanks for the info. I understand that beginning sometime in 1970, the 280sl was fitted with a "transistorized ignition". I could not find a PERTRONIX ignitor for the 1971 280sl. Does this mean that I essentially have an eletronic igintion and can't retrofit? Or do the manufacturers you suggest carry one for this year? Thanks again for the post.

[Arthur Dalton]

The transistor ignition was a step toward electrnic , but it still had mechanical points. The idea was less voltage across the points and therefore longer life, but still mechanical switching.
The best bet in this instance is the Crane as it iliminates the trans switch-gear. It has its own and it works flawlessly.
I think the one you want is the Crane XR-700 series, model 0-231.
Go to www.cranecams.com and then to "Point conversion". They have all the info you will need .
Cost about $90.
I have done many and have had NO dissatisfied users.

[toms]

Thank you very much! I understand that these cars tend to run "rich" on fuel and I have had a strong gasoline smell that wanders into the car. I had this both before and after the restoration that included a complete fuel system redo (including the fuel pump). No adjustments to the injection pump. I am hoping this will fix that gasoline smell and improve performance.

I also read some of you oher responses to other posts and saw another solution to a problem I have-power steering noise. Worked fine before the restoration and since I got the car back yesterday, it is getting progressively worse. Will check the items you said.

[Arthur Dalton]

Richness check will be looking at the cold start valve mounted on the intake . They are famous for leaking by when not energized.
Usually don't smell that in the cabin , though.
Look for fuel leaks at fittings and such.

Hi Toms,
What is your distributor number? I modify and use the PerTronix units on some ignition rebuilds that I do and cover a lot of applications that don't exist in their guide. I prefer to rebush and set up the distributors when they get converted.Putting a kit in a worn distributor is like a BandAid on a bullet wound, better but not right. It makes a tremendous difference in the way the car runs.
Regards,
Randy D.

------------------
W.R.Durrance
ASE Master Tech
Mercedes Tech 21 Years
68 250SE
68 SAAB 96 Ice Racer
69 300SEL 6.3
70 300SEL 3.5
81 300TDT
W.R.Durrance Engineering

[toms]

How would I determine the number? Is it located on the distributor? I believe this is the original distributor on a 1971 280sl built in the fall of 1970. Thanks, and thanks to Arthur for his follow-up.

Hi,
The number is on the side of the distributor. If it's aluminum(silver), the number is stamped directly into the housing. If it's cast iron (black) the number is on a metal plate riveted to the distributor. Either the distributor number, or the part number for the points set would tell me what I need to know.
Regards,
Randy D.

[toms]

Randy, the distributor number is 0231 116 062. I have had a good bit of restoration work done so I think the distributor is in pretty good shape. Car runs well. Would be interested in your thoughts on this. I like the Crane cam idea. Thanks

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1971 280SL
1999 E320 Wagon

I have a PerTronix kit for that one. No external box is needed. It requires a standard ignition coil and a 2 wire hook up. It screws in in place of the points. The magnet is made for the breaker cam, so you don't have to align anything. No "erector set" bracketry inside the distributor. Same price as the Crane stuff,30 month warranty.
Sorry to take the space here. But I used to use optical systems back in the early eighties. There is a better way. Contact me privately for details. WDurrance@aol.com
Randy D.

------------------
W.R.Durrance
ASE Master Tech
Mercedes Tech 21 Years
68 250SE
68 SAAB 96 Ice Racer
69 300SEL 6.3
70 300SEL 3.5
81 300TDT
W.R.Durrance Engineering

[Jim Villers]

Two items. First I installed a Crane Cams unit in my 230SL at Authur's suggestion and I am very happy with it. I also installed a rebuilt distributor as I observed the timing wandering a little when viewed with a timming light. Secound, you mentioned a gas odor. I traced mine to the rubber vent tube on the top of the gas tank. You casn easily inspect it by removing the filler tube plate from inside the trunk.

Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL (both with Crane Cams units)

Hi All,

Where is the best place to get my 190sl distributor rebuilt?

I have ordered my Crane Fireball 700 following this discussion and tips from Robby A.
Thanks,
Eric

[Jim Villers]

I got a rebuilt distributor from Ed Hendrich (or something like that) at EEC in Los Angeles. His email is: heidrich@sigmanet.net
His address is: 6059 Lake Murray Blvd, La
Mesa CA 91942-2506. I don't have his phone number.

The price was very reasonable and I was pleased with the distributor.

Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL

[toms]

Should the spark plug gaps be adjusted (and if so, by how much)once one converts from the stock ignition to electronic ignitio on the '71 280sl?