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  #1  
Old 04-27-2011, 06:23 PM
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Window seals fraying

Hi,

My 27 280SEL window seals are fraying and have little strings hanging all over. I pull one and 2 more appear. Not sure what they are made of, but can I safely eliminate this fraying? I was thinking of maybe some heat? If they are man made, the heat may singe just enough to stop the shedding...kind of like a nylon rope end....

Thanks in advance!

Jason Keith

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  #2  
Old 04-27-2011, 07:01 PM
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Which seals are bad? i suggest you purchase new seals from Tom Hanson at the classic center.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #3  
Old 04-27-2011, 09:58 PM
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Not the door seal, its the fabric ones that surround the actual window itself. Guess i should call them.....
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2011, 11:51 PM
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"Window channel"? Lots of info on this in the archives here.
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2011, 12:27 PM
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alternate source/detailed install tips, tricks

restoration specialties in pennsylvania has window channel which comes awfully close to the original look they are listed on page 8 iirc. eight foot section=$32 versus $60 per meter for oe.

i installed them in my 1972 220d. as it was my first time working with window channel i'd like to redo 2 of the 4 openings. even with careful measuring i wasn't happy with the way the corners turned out.

install tip: with the window off the tracks sitting in the bottom of the door measure from the bottom of the rear track to the inside of the top rear corner. add a couple inches then make at least two cuts about 75% of the way through the channel material. there are metal 'ribs' every half inch or so along the channel so your cuts have to be staggered to miss the metal.

if your car has the metal clips that secure the channel along the top of the door frame remove them while dry fitting the channel. also make sure you don't twist the channel as it has a pretty good memory and is difficult to completely untwist.

after measuring and cutting the section for the rear of the door i both measured and eyeballed for the correct length across the top of the door to the front corner before cutting. there is a very narrow window to get this piece long enough without being too long. unlike door seals this material has no 'give'. if it's too long it won't compress and will bow down from the frame. too short and it won't stretch and will make it impossible to achieve a crisp looking corner.

for the best visual appearance you want the corners to have a distinct ninety degree bend. if you make only one cut for the corner it will have to go to the edge of the fabric in order for the channel to bend and make the turn around the corner completely. and if the length along the top of the door frame is the least bit short (loose) the channel won't fit either corner tightly and the gap just beyond the fabric will be visible. if your length is correct and you use more than one cut per corner you should be good. look closely at the corners on the channel you're replacing.

the point in the process that my new channel got twisted happened during the dry fitting. i had set the rear channel in place, made my cut(s) and was repeatedly installing/removing to check for correct length along the top. by the time i had done the first two doors my technique had evolved so i was measuring/eyeballing both corner cuts before dry fitting. i'd then slide both ends into the door before setting the top into place.

i'd recommend doing the rear doors first as the corners are straightforward nineties. it is helpful to have at least a couple quick release (one-handed) clamps on hand. also be aware that the window track in each door body follows the slightly curved contour of the door and must be gently persuaded into place and clamped to check the dry fit. likewise the channel along the top of the frame must be straightened both to check the fit and for install.

doing the rear doors first will better prepare you for the extra bend/cuts along the top of the front door frames (model specific). after everything is cut and bent correctly, reinstall the metal clips on the channel material, apply a bead of weatherstrip adhesive to the window tracks, press into place and clamp. i used a block of wood and hammer to seal the channel around the window opening. be careful... the stuff will deform. you will want a blunt shim-shaped piece of wood or plastic/nylon to place into the track of the channel in order to seat any section that won't cooperate with the wood block.

i hope this information helps. good luck!
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:36 PM
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window reinstall

i forgot to add... reinstall the glass after the channel is seated in the door frame. clamp the glass in place (save the regulator for later it only gets in the way) then adhere the lower sections of channel into place and clamp.

in order to get the glass into the track you'll have to loosen the foward facing track. unless you have carefully formed the matching curve into it (and even then) the channel will want to jump out of the track as you are trying to get the window into it.
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2011, 11:42 PM
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Ahhh, I wasnt calling it window channel in my searching.

Thanks for the great writeup! I will look into buying it there
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:48 AM
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glad to help

you are welcome. it's a pleasure to share what i learned.
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2011, 06:46 AM
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I just purchased these window channels from Restoration Specialties but haven't installed them yet. I had purchased the MB channel for one window, but the piece was too short so I returned it and decided to go with the cheaper alternative product. FYI the Restoration Specialties channel is actually of better quality than the MB channel I returned.
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2011, 08:17 AM
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If the fraying is not too bad, snip the lose strings and gently wipe a diluted solution of Elmer's white glue over the fraying area (which is almost always the outside section that is exposed to the damaging UV rays). That will keep things in check for quite a while, especially considering most of these cars don't spend much time in the sun any more.
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  #11  
Old 05-04-2011, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeith72 View Post
Hi,

My 27 280SEL window seals are fraying and have little strings hanging all over.
I didn't realize MB made a 280SEL back in 1927 :- )
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2012, 05:41 AM
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Window Channels, which one exactly

I see a few references to Restoration Specialties for replacement window channel. But, I do not see an exact part number, so not sure what is the best item (I do see forum member’s reference to page numbers in a catalog, but that can change every year).

I contacted Restoration Specialties and asked if I sent them a 1 inch sample of window channel from a 280SE, would they kindly take a look and tell us what they feel is the best match. They said YES!!

So, I have not started to take apart my 280SE yet, so can I get a member with a few inches of 280SE used window channel to send me a sample, and I will get Restoration Specialties to match it? I will then buy enough for my car. I will photograph the old and the new, with a nice camera so the forum will have a good sample photo for future reference. Of course, I will publish the exact part number as well.

Does anyone have a few inches to spare?Just send me a private message and I will send you my postal address.

PS: If you have other sample of other rubber (like trunk seal) I am happy to include it in the package I will send to Restoration Specialties.

Thanks for the help.
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1972 Mercedes 280 SE with 4.5 liter V8
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:13 AM
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Restoration Specialties part #8-A-2.
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:52 AM
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Also see Metro Molded Parts # WC 12-96.

Metro Moulded Parts, Inc. - Selection Detail
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2012, 09:01 AM
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Clother covered window channel

Thanks for the updates and part numbers.

Both of these suggested items are "rubber covered", as per their descriptions in their catalogs. But, at least on my Mercedes 280SE, the channels are cloth covered. I have seen other Mercs of the same era that are cloth covered as well.

I dug a little deeper into the Restoration Specialties catalog and they have a similar sized cloth covered channel, and it is called #10-G.

The part from Metrol Molded (WC-12-96) has a really small measurement for the channel gap of only 1/8 inch. I would be worried if I got that one, and it caused any more friction on tired electric windows they may not work any longer. The Restoration Specialties item with part number #8-A-2 has an overall width 1/16th wider than Metro Molded and part #10-G is 1/8inch wider than Metro Molded.

All this adds up to so many differences in measurements and the exterior finish of the channel (ie: clothe covered or rubber covered), it could be a smart move to send Restoration Specialties a few inches of window channel to really get a precise match from the experts.

I put together a graphic that shows side-by-side these parts, so it is a bit easier to see what I am writing about. Please see it attached to this posting (sorry, but could not figure out how to attach a file bigger than 60K).

I am sure there are many out there with frayed window channel and would like to find a cost effective solution that is close to stock fit/appearance.

Any chance someone has a spare few inches of channel they can send to me, and I will make photos of the original and the item that Restoration Specialties sends me? It will be a nice and concise write up, so we never have to re-answer "What channel is good for a 280SE and other similar models in that era?".
Attached Thumbnails
Window seals fraying-merc_window_channel.jpg  

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Last edited by uprightfan; 01-12-2012 at 09:04 AM. Reason: typo and grammar
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