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#1
02-26-2012, 05:31 PM
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1975 280 will not idel
I know this card is complex ,I had it running good at one time but now Idk if I have vacuum hose on wrong ,I took carb. Off, no trash. It starts for few sec.s ,idle high ,then die. I feel like I should get a carb kit for it.
Anyone have vacuum diagram? And any help with carb would be helpful. 
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#2
02-27-2012, 02:34 AM
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Are you sure you are getting a proper supply of fuel? Start by checking the tank filter ( in the bottom of the tank,looks like a drain bung.) >Replace all the rubber fuel hoses with new EFi rated hose .
make 100% sure the ignition is perfect.
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#3
02-27-2012, 07:32 PM
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I think that carb has an idle solenoid that shuts off the fuel when the power is cut off. If it is malfunctioning the motor would not idle. It is at the bottom of the carb and would have a wire connected to it. If the wire is not connected the fuel shuts off. Also make sure the valves are adjusted and the timing is right. It won't run otherwise.
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#4
02-28-2012, 03:18 AM
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If ur talking about the idle speed solenoids , I can hear them click ,by power off and on, I took carb. Off, cleaned , I had it running flawless then just went to sh** on me and I didn't mess with it for months .now I'm not sure I got vacum lines right. I'm going to try and find a carb kit. As there is a gasket that need s to be replaced. But that's not the issue.
I will check and make sure solenoids are working . Thanks If anyone has vacuum diagram ,It be nice to see it.
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#5
02-28-2012, 03:28 AM
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Tank filter. I did not know about this. I'm sure It's never been changed but I had proper psi at carb. My carb was warped ,when I got car. I filed it down and also the plastic part that opens the flaps carb. Was broke. I took 25 cent s ,put broken part over it painted it,then took die grinder and made one. Works good.
I just add that so if someone has this issue ,it might help them.
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#6
02-28-2012, 04:21 AM
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Just realized that you have A W114 280 with a M110 twin cam engine.right?
I just finsihed one for a customer which has had the carb swapped for a Holley 390CFM 4Bbl. Works brilliantly and feels just like an injected car.
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#7
02-28-2012, 11:34 AM
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The only critical vacuum attachments are the two in front of the carb--at the bottom plate and at the diaphragm regulating idle--all others can be plugged for testing purposes.
Make sure there's power to the choke as well--it won't run well if at all unless the choke has coolant flow and voltage--good luck Tim Kraakevik kraakevik@voyager.net Four 114's, Four M110's
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#8
02-28-2012, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
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#9
02-28-2012, 02:59 PM
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Did it take some kind of adapter kit or was it just bolt on when you replaced the carb. Out ?
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#10
02-28-2012, 03:05 PM
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Thanks every one , I'm going to check for voltage at the choke , I had a friend start it and by holding my hand over carb cutting off air it was trying to idle. Far as vacuum lines, Idk if i got ones in right place or not on front of carb. I tried it both ways . I'll have to toy with it.
Thanks for the help.
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#11
02-28-2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
To set the idle it is best to adjust the vacuum element first.
Next adjust the idle screw (below the vacuum element) to an idle speed of 800-900rpm I have a complete (somewhat oily) manual in German if you are interested. Rob
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#12
02-28-2012, 09:30 PM
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Last time I had this happen it turned out that the secondary throttle valves were stuck open a small amount. On a diffrent car, the EGR line had a hole in it. Generally, if you can't make this system idle you have a vaccum leak. Could also be a fueling problem.
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#13
03-11-2012, 11:40 PM
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I have not had time to look at it, maybe this week I peek u posted.
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