'72 220D Project Car

[cj.surr]

Hello, I just bought a 1972 220D today. I basically bought it because it was cheap, and I like the style of these old Mercs. I got it in a trade for a set of BMW wheels. Here are some details on the car:

240k mi
4-speed manual, new clutch
Lots of surface rust on the body, no holes though
New floorboards were welded in by PO
The engine runs, but a little rough

The catch is that the car has been sitting for 1+ year (and maybe a few years before that). The battery is pretty much shot, won't hold a charge. It has been run periodically, but I don't believe the fuel has been changed. So I would think that a fuel system cleaning/flush would be in order. If somebody could give me pointers on the proper way to do this, I would appreciate it.

Another problem is that there is a puddle of oil sitting at the bottom of the airbox. I've heard this could be due to something wrong with the vacuum pump, but not sure about that.

Also, the key is stuck in the ignition at position 2. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong, but I can't get it to pull out or move to the off position. It went in and out fine when the PO was showing me the car. I've tried pushing the starter button in, but it doesn't help.



Those are all of the big problems for now, but I will have other questions to come. This is my first MB, first diesel, and my first classic car. I'm a BMW enthusiast, and I'm pretty skilled when it comes to working on those, but this is totally new to me. I appreciate any help in advance!

-CJ

[diesellac]

I think the filter is an oil bath filter, my 74 240d has an oil bath and its the same body.

For the ignition did you try wiggling the steering wheel?
Are you sure the starter button is pushed all the way in? if the starter button isn't pushed in all the way the key wont turn at all for me too.

someone will chime in on the fuel system flush, for my 83 240 i just drained the tank and cleaned out the crap.

[cj.surr]

I totally forgot to wiggle the steering wheel. Dumb mistake, since that happens with my BMW too. I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

Didn't know there was such a thing as an oil bath filter... So I guess I should just leave the oil in there, then?

[Palolo]

Originally Posted by cj.surr

This is my first MB, first diesel, and my first classic car. I'm a BMW enthusiast...

Welcome to the bright side, fellow recovering BMW enthusiast*!

(I was going to say "Welcome to the fast lane", but you just bought a 220D, so maybe "right lane" is more like it...)



(*my "new" car is an E34 535i)

[Pooka]

Two things.....

First read up on Oil Bath Air Filters. This is very old technology but it works. I know I bought a 1971 VW and it had an oil bath. As weird as it sounds you just change the oil in the filter when you change the oil in the engine.

American cars went to paper filters in the 50's but the Germans stuck with the oil baths until around 1975 in some cars. Fuel Injection and oil baths do not work together which is why they are all gone today.

Cleaning the fuel system......

I just drained the fuel from the tank and pulled the pick-up screen. This normally is the best way to get at most of the bad stuff that is in there. I also remove the hose leading from the tank to the steel fuel line. Do this at both ends.

Then get a length of steel cable long enough to go through the entire length of the steel fuel line, some strong string, and a cleaning brush for a .22 rifle. Push the cable through the steel line until it comes out the other end, tie the string to one end of the cable and the other to the brush, and pull the brush through like you are cleaning a very long rifle barrel. If there is any gunk that has settled in there this will clean it out.

When you put the hoses back always use new hoses. Then fill the tank about 50% of the way with some fresh diesel and pour in some diesel conditioner which will clean the system and also kill any algae that might be growing in there.

Also make sure to replace your normal fuel filters. I always fill them with Diesel-Kleen when installing a new filter since your car will run on this and it will not hurt to give your injection pump a slug of cleaner after the car has sat for so long.

[cj.surr]

Thanks a lot for the info on the oil bath filters and fuel system. I'm going to try and get started on the fuel system tonight. One question, though... Where's the pick-up screen?


Also, about the key, I still haven't been able to get it out. I've tried wiggling the steering wheel, the started button, the pedals, everything I can think of. But it still wouldn't move out of position 2.

[cj.surr]

I've tried draining the fuel from the rubber line connection under the car at the pedal box area. It seems to be the lowest point, definitely lower than the tank. But I only got 1gal to drain out, even though the car is only jacked up in the rear. The fuel gauge reads slightly less than full, which is where it was reading before draining the gallon. So I'm guessing that the gauge is shot and the tank is empty. Any easy way to confirm this?

I've also tried putting in the new battery. Since the key is still stuck in the 2 position, the fuel pump should be building pressure and forcing diesel out of the lines. Or does this car not have a fuel pump?

[KeithV35]

Do you shut off the vehicle with the key or with a push cable? My 1964 has a cable that you pull out for the glow plug to come on then pull it out further for the starter to engage. Pushing it all the way forward shuts the vehicle off on mine. Unless its all the way forward the key wont come out of the ignition.

Keith

[cj.surr]

I have the push button in mine as well. I've tried pushing it in and moving the key, but still no dice.



By the way, I realized that there is a small length of rubber hose right at the gas tank. Disconnected that and I was able to drain the tank.


Pooka, I'm afraid that I will mess up the string and barrel brush and end up with it stuck in my fuel line. Is there any other way to clean that out, and is it essential?


Also, what do you guys recommend as far as antifreeze? I figured I would do a flush while I'm doing all the other tune-up stuff. I know there's specific MB coolant, but not sure if it's necessary. There's specific BMW coolant, but most enthusiasts agree that Prestone works just fine.

[Shortsguy1]

CJ-
My dad's 68 220D started after 6 years of being parked. The battery actually held its charge that long. So I think these cars do pretty good even after parked so long. I regret the damage that probably happened to the engine due to poor oil lubrication after 6 years, but nothing I can do about that now.

The tank screen is on the bottom of the tank. It probably has a very large allen-type wrench opening. You can use appropriately sized nuts locked together on a bolt to save the cost of buying a oversize allen wrench.

The fuel sending unit is the device that tells the dash how much diesel is in your tank. You can access it under the plastic mat in the trunk. It is right in the middle of the trunk floor. Mine removed with 6 small nuts, but I think newer versions attach a little differently. Once that is removed (be very delicate with it, as it contains very thin wires), you actually have about a 2" access hole in the tank. From there, with a flashlight and mirror, you should be able to inspect much of the tank.

My tank didn't have much growth/fouling after 6 years, but there was some algae growing inside the fuel sending unit. At your point, I would not worry about the fuel sending unit. You have bigger concerns. But there are threads here that say how to deal with that when the time comes.

If the "gorilla knob" is all the way in, the key should be easy to remove. Just double check that the knob is all the way in.

Good luck.

[cj.surr]

Thanks, good to know that these cars hold up well while sitting. That's amazing that the battery even lasted that long.

Ok, so I should remove the tank screen and clean it right?

And is the gorilla knob supposed to click in against the dash? Mine pushes in but springs back. Even if I hold it in, the key won't come out.

[Shortsguy1]

I would encourage you to check the tank screen. If it is somewhat blocked, it can reduce fuel flow at high load and reduce the engine output.

The knob should definitely stay in against the dash when pushed. This is the off position and how it would normally sit when parked.

The only spring mine has pulls the knob in after you use it to engage the starter (all the way pulled towards you when seated). So for some reason, your spring is operating the opposite direction of mine. Somehow the mechanism on your knob has been messed up, and that is probably what is keeping the key from coming out.

[cj.surr]

Ah, ok. Then that must be the problem. That makes sense because I believe that I heard a snap or something when I was playing around with it at some point. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks!

[tram]

Try adjusting the push- pull cable housing under the hood. There's a clamp down by the pump. Loosen it and push the housing about 10mm more towards the pump. Tighten it and push in the knob and your key may come out.

That knob MUST push all the way in with no spring- back to release the key. There's too much back pressure on it thru the cable.

[rs899]

That's a very desirable car (if the rust has been fixed). Post your location and you may get some personal help. I don't think it's really worth scrubbing the insides of the fuel lines with a brush. If they are that bad, just replace them- I used a roll of 1/4" brake line on a Jetta I daily drive. Best way to address bad fuel is to pull the tank, which I don't think is too hard on a W115. There is no external fuel pump- the "lift pump" is part of the injection pump assembly.

Although this certainly qualifies as "vintage", there is more traffic in the diesel forum, so you might want to post a link over there.