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#1
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Head scratcher for MB wood experts
I just picked up a decent set of dash wood in what was described to me as a "light burl". It's from a 220SEb sedan and will be going into my 230S.
I can't tell if it's maple, oak, myrtle, madrona, or something else. Here's a pic of the piece that UPS broke playing monster truck on the box: I can take other pics of the other parts if you need more. Any/ all help appreciated. I need to source veneer to do the rest of the wood up to match as closely as possible. THANKS!
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#2
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Burls are tough to pick out. Keep in mind they would have had to make many, so it would not be a very exotic wood. It looks kind of light, but I'd guess walnut.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#3
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How would you get it light like that? I'm re-veneering a W111 Coupe right now, and it's much darker. I could try bleaching a scrap, I guess. All of the walnut I've ever purchased has been the dark stuff, but my 6,3 had a lighter burl come to think of it- so you may be right.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#4
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The sun would do that.
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With best regards Al |
#5
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I've seen sun baked walnut burl, and I don't think it will bleach it out that much. I have a scrap soaking in Clorox and it looks like doing this plus some staining to get the color tone back might be the ticket.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#6
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Mr. Burl would know the burl's wood, wouldn't he?
Burl Ives - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Edit: I would try something like this, and stain to match, vs bleaching a darker wood... But that's just me. Ash, White Burl Veneer: FormWood Industries Last edited by Palolo; 05-31-2012 at 04:47 AM. |
#7
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Carpathian Elm burl is a possibility, though what I've seen has a busier grain.
A good furniture refinisher will be able to re-glue, fill as necessary, and touch up the fill, reproducing the grain pattern. Results can be amazing. Oxalic acid is used (and sold as) wood bleach. |
#8
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The broken portion looks a lot like Maple. I would be surprised if they use bleached walnut. I have no basis for my opinion though.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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If I were you I'd go and kick the UPS man and then get some acetone and strip the varnish on the two parts.
(Results for acetone stripping shown here Got me some cheap dash wood for my W123 300D) I'd then put the two halves together and see if the damage can be hidden with filler / glue / varnish or not. In my experience you are usually better off with what you've already got.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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Just a tid-bit on gluing the pieces.....
Long a go a friend of mine ran a refinish shop. He would take a piece of Linen cloth and glue it between the pieces of wood. He claimed the linen held to the wood stronger than just wood to wood. His stuff always looked good. You would still have to refinish the crack somehow, but you would not have to worry about the wood snapping apart while you worked on it. |
#11
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Agreed, take it to a wood or furniture restorer and get an estimate, you shouldn't need to have it re-veneered but they can identify the wood type for you easily if they know their stuff.
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1962 220SE W111 Coupe, 2nd owner http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../SideSmall.jpg The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs) official website The Coupe Group on Facebook MotoArigato: Roadworthy News & Humor |
#12
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Quote:
To repair a cracked dash bow, I would lay a strip of doubled-up 6oz fiberglass tape all the way across, from one end to the other, simply because these dash bows need a little bit of twisting and persuasion to get out and replace, and having one crack a little on the way back in would be a shame. The dash bow's internal layup is actually in two halves (the wood plies/layers below the top finish veneer meet near the middle at a butt joint) and running a strip of fiberglass or backing tape across that joint would be peace of mind for me. The factory hit the joint with a couple of staples across the seam, more to hold it in position while the glue set up. Applied right (just enough resin, not goopy/drowning the fibers), the glass tape is thin, not visible, and there"'s even a handy recess for it to sit in. |
#13
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Wait- I'm fine with repairing the broken pieces and filling/ staining to cover the damage. The reason I'm asking this is because I'm going to veneer and finish the windshield surround pieces that join under the rearview mirror to match. I'm also rebuilding a Behr underdash A/C box for a W111 Coupe, and have patterned out all the pieces so I can reproduce these fairly close when necessary, and the first effort will go into the 230S. I think it'd be a nice touch- and the veneer facing needs to match (or be close to) the dash also.
So, that's the reason I'm asking.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#14
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Army- Thanks for the acetone tip- a W123 300TDT is one of the next cars in line. I'll try it on some old W108 pieces also.
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1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#15
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Quote:
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1962 220SE W111 Coupe, 2nd owner http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../SideSmall.jpg The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs) official website The Coupe Group on Facebook MotoArigato: Roadworthy News & Humor |
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