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#1
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Throttle Linkage Adjustment W115/220D: Need special adjusting gauge
Hi-
I have a 1968 220D, W115 with an automatic transmission. I am adjusting the throttle linkages (30-300 in FSM), but am stuck. The FSM refers to an adjusting gauge which I don't have and cannot afford to purchase. Without it, I cannot figure out how to adjust all the linkages on the intake side of the engine. I have attached the appropriate sections from the FSM. The gauge is basically a piece of metal with an idle mark and full throttle mark. I guess I am supposed to adjust the linkages to ensure that these marks are matched with my linkages. But without the gauge, I have no idea what I am doing. The primary linkage to the intake butterfly valve was off on my car, which meant my idle control knob couldn't function. I have adjusted the main linkage to 310mm as directed in the FSM, and I believe I can now get my idle control knob to work again. But I have no idea how to get everything else to match. I believe I read about this somewhere but have just spent an hour trying to find a relevant thread, but failed. Your help is appreciated. |
#2
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I can't help but perhaps the guys over on
www.stroke8.org can help? Have you asked people on BW? These are the only Peach Parts threads that I can find that are even remotely close to the information you want Vacuum/ Throttle Help - 1976 300D (W115) How do you properly adjust the Throttle Linkage 1978 240D Throttle Linkage Setup
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Thanks Army
I have been searching on benzworld, but I haven't posted a question there. Regarding the stroke8 forum, that seems pretty underutilized these days. I don't think it gets much traffic. I will keep looking, as I know I saw it somewhere. The post/advice I read suggested a way to get around the necessary measurement gauge, but I just wish I could remember the advice.
I have done my best to adjust the linkages based on the few specific measurements that are given in the FSM for the w115. It will be interesting to see if I can notice a difference in the operation of the vehicle. Thanks again for your help. If anyone knows the correct way to adjust the linkages that go below the manifolds on the passenger side of the car, please let me know. They connect to the transmission, so I assume they contribute to the shifting of the transmission. My vehicle shifts too early, so ideally I would like to address that. But beggars can't be choosers. These old auto trannys don't use vacuum for the shifting as the later diesels do. |
#4
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PM sent
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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Part 115589302300 (the adjusting gauge) has an MSRP of $100-$120, depending where you look. The strange thing is that two vendors who normally sell parts for below MSRP both want $20 more than the suggested retail price. So when I said I cannot afford it, I was assuming it would cost me around $150 after shipping and tax (if necessary). Out of respect for our hosts, I should also check with them, but I doubt they find such an archaic part for much less than MSRP. That is too steep for a part that hopefully I will only use once. I also don't know for sure if it is even available. I will follow your leads and get back to everyone.
Last edited by Shortsguy1; 07-05-2012 at 08:50 AM. Reason: forgot one point |
#6
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Answer
There are two available in North America
Linkage adjusting gauge MB# 115 589 30 23 00 $208.55 That is flat cost from MB... I don't know anyone willing to loan or rent this tool. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#7
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This special tool isn't listed on the startek special tools page any more
STAR TekInfo Could that be a sign of immement unobtainablility? (Or just a sign that they haven't got their IT department up to scratch again?)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#8
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So I adjusted as many of the linkages as possible using the FSM as a guide. I will document this further elsewhere, but it turns out that the lengths specified at the beginning of the chapter did not accomplish their necessary tasks, so I had to adjust a few on the fly. For instance, the "tickler" pull rod linkage ( from the lever on top of the valve cover down to the injection pump) is specified at 205 mm, ball to ball distance. But this length did not allow the IP tickler to be all the way down at idle. So made it as absolutely long as possible, and the tickler is now very close to all the way down at idle.
The absolutely AMAZING thing is that my loping, hunting, searching idle is GONE. YES! I honestly don't know how or why. I did a few other things to the car since it last ran, but nothing that would affect the idle. So I think adjusting the linkages correctly may have actually done it. Regarding the semi-unobtanium MB reference gauge, here is my plan. I want to make a Solidworks solid model (a fancy name for a computer drawing) of all the 220D linkages from the throttle pedal, IP, intake butterfly valve, transmission, etc. and I think that I will be able to back-track the dimensions of this tool. I think I now know the constraints, but the geometry is too hard for me to deal with by hand. So I have no idea when I will have the time to do this, and there may be only two people on the planet that would care about the results, but this is my plan. Don't hold your breath though. |
#9
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Well good luck with it!
My next purchase will probably be an older Mercedes (most people buy newer - I'm perverse!)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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I was going to suggest that you do not need the guage ,but set the pump to full closed (fuel off) and the butterfy to full closed then connect the two rods so they push on with having to move the pump and throttle. Then move the throttle to full fuel and both should arrive at the stop at the same time .
Worn ball ends can make adjusment almost impossible so fit new ones. New ones can be bought from hobbie shops who specialise in RC cars. |
#11
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Adjustment of the control pressure rod is quite essential, as it controls everything in the transmission, but you can make a good guess by means of the shift points. Longer control pressure rod means earlier shifts, shorter means later shifts. At full load/kickdown the shift points should be around the marks on the speedometer.
Quote:
That controls the poppet cam and that prevents a loping idle. |
#12
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Perhaps my terminology is wrong
Perhaps I got the terminology wrong as I am not 100% sure which end is which. Is the end at the IP called the "guide lever" or the "tickler shaft"? The FSM indicates the pull rod from guide lever to tickler shaft should be 205 mm for my car. It later gives the methodology that you describe. I have another Bosch injection pump reference which I have attached to this post (Bosch Fuel Injection 6-300 which applies to 190D, 200D, and 220D (1967-73)). It suggests that the IP lever should come up only 1 mm (rather than the half ball, 4 mm, in the FSM). Regardless, that linkage on my car is not long enough to achieve either of those. So I just did my best to have the lever coming out of the IP as far down as possible when first hooking everything up. It was probably closer to a full ball diameter, but I really didn't have another option.
Does this seem reasonable? |
#13
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The rod indicated with the red dot has a prescribed length, the rod with the blue dot has the method of raising it by about half a ball joint.
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#14
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Govert-
Thanks, that picture is great. By setting my "red dot" linkage to the specified 310mm (I have the old, flat bracket on my valve cover), if I set my "blue dot" linkage to the 205 mm specified in the FSM (see first image on my OP), it was not long enough to satisfy the alternative method of setting its length to raise the IP lever connector by half a ball joint (or the 1 mm in my alternative bosch document). So I tried lengthening it, but I ran out of threads. I decided to keep at least 4 turns of threads inside each ball joint, and the linkage just wasn't quite long enough. I only mention this in case there are others out there with the same problem. My blue dot linkage at its longest is still slightly too short, and I am not sure why. To properly address this, I could lengthen the "red dot" linkage to longer than its specification. That would allow my "blue dot" linkage to push down further at the IP. The only reason I didn't do this is that the cable on my idle adjustment is too short to give me any room to rotate the bracket between the two linkages in question (even with its adjustment nut all the way in/shortened). I am considering cutting away some of the bowden cable housing to give me more exposed cable. Anyway, thanks everyone for all your help on this. It is amazing how much better the vehicle idles now that I am closer to the correct linkage settings. I very much appreciate all of your advice. |
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