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#1
02-22-2002, 08:01 PM
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Where can I buy a repair manual for my car?
Hi All,
I am a new owner of a 1969 250 in good condition, but is in need of some engine work. I can't seem to find a shop or repair manual anywhere for this model year car. Are repair manuals available for these cars or am I out of luck? Any sources would be appreciated. Thanks. Steve 1969 250 
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#2
02-22-2002, 08:38 PM
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You can get the Haynes Manual at a number of places. I personally favor this over the Mercedes CD for most operations. Do not buy the bootleg CD for sale on ebay - it doesn't work.
I have had good luck with www.books4cars.com and www.tmcpubl.com. A favorite of mine is the "glove box" parts book which has exploded pictures and shows almost all parts on the car. You can find them on e-bay for 10-15 bucks.
__________________
Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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#4
02-23-2002, 01:59 PM
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Steve,
Once you get the haynes manual, be careful. It's specs for ignition timing & the like may well be wrong. It's not a bad book to have, but you REALLY want the factory service manuals. They can be found used on ebay. You can purchase the service CD here at fastlane. The CD has all the relevant service manuals. -CTH
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#5
03-01-2002, 05:13 PM
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Hmmmm that CD
I have to agree with Chuck. I ordered one of those CDs off E-Bay about 2 1/2 months back. However while waiting for delivery (7 weeks) I managed to obtain a copy of Haynes. Imho the budget CD isn't in the same league as the book. The CD looks cheap from cover to material, and is grainy and hard to navigate.
__________________
Peter New Zealand 1974 M B 250
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#6
03-01-2002, 05:36 PM
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Haynes Manual is Excellent
And published ignition specs are accurate -- those being 30 degrees BTDC@3000 RPM and dwell being 39 - 41 degrees.
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#7
03-01-2002, 06:18 PM
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The haynes books aren't "bad". Chiltons are bad. Down right aweful. But, the 1/2 inch thick haynes book doesn't compare to the 5 inch thick equivalent mercedes benz service manual stack. The pile more than triples in size when you stack ALL the books for all the cars covered by a haynes manual.
But, you get what you pay for. A complete stack of manuals for a benz from Mercedes costs between 100 and 200$ easy (and that's used on ebay). The haynes book is 5-15. There are 3 generations of CDs from MB. The oldest is the 114/115 & 116 CDs. They are not incredibly good. The most recent are the "star Classics" for the 1946-1972 model cars. -CTH
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#8
03-03-2002, 10:46 AM
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Well, the Haynes will probably due for now as I just need to do a few simple things like putting on a new water pump and fuel pump, etc. Should I get more "motivated" and have more time, the CD's or MB shop manual would be the way to go. Thanks again.
Steve
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#9
03-03-2002, 11:10 AM
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You can remove just the pump from the housing, or the whole housing. Either way, the job is straight-forward. Painful, but straight forward.
If you remove the housing, you REALLY want to have a 28mm socket, extension & breaker bar to turn the engine by hand to remove the water pump housing. You will find a 6mm allen key mounted on a 3/8" drive equally essential. These tools will come in handy for many other jobs. You also REALLY want a few spare parts, including the gaskets, and the metal banjo bolts that hold the little metal bypass tube between the housing & the head (they corrode). Also replace the rubber bypass hose (it's about 4" long) now while you have the chance. All the parts mentioned, together, will be under 20$ at a very good foriegn autoparts store (or order them from here). -CTH
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#10
03-04-2002, 07:36 AM
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Hey, that's helpful information to a newbie like myself! But, is there a reason I would have to take off the whole housing instead of just the pump itself? I am guessing you have done this job more than once before. Thanks again.
Steve
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#11
03-04-2002, 07:49 AM
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It all depends on what problem you're fixing and which replacement parts you have. If you can remove the pump only, then by all means, do so.
If it doesn't budge, apply heat, lots of heat. Spend the 30$ at home depot for a cylinder of MAPP (yellow can) and the special tip that goes with it. Don't toast your gas lines(!). -CTH PS. To drain the block, look for the large bolt at the bottom just in front of the oil filter. Do that after draining the radiator. BTW, before putting in the new pump is a great time to back flush the system. Invest the few bucks in the de-scaling agent and use it too.
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#12
03-04-2002, 07:50 AM
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Oh, and while the radiator is out, have it cleaned professionally. -CTH
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