Broke Heater Lever - 280s w108

[cnm]

My top right heater lever is broken on my 68 280S. I assume it was stuck and broken by the previous owner. The bottom-right lever is also stuck but not broken.

I need to replace the broken lever and I was wondering if the middle item on this page is the correct part (or a part that would work):

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&model=3238&section=VENTHT&page=1&bookmark=0&part_number=000-833-16-40-M36


Also, I assume I will need to clean the heater valves so that they are no longer stuck. Is this a good way to go about that job:

Originally Posted by twinockchef

The easiest way to access the valves is to remove the glove box insert which will give you a clear view of both valves. The valves are on the right side of the heater box. You can then move the valve lever, attached to the valve, back and forth. It your very lucky moving it could free it up. Although this is unlikely.
Sorry to say but you cannot just oil the valve. The fit is very tight and the introduction of oil would a best be a short term solution. If the valve does no move smoothly then i is a good chance that the o-rings are bad. You can replace them while the heater core is still in the car but it will not be easy. There is not a lot of room.
I you do decide to replace the o-rings. Remember that when you pull the valves out coolant will come out. So remove the carpet.

Since the lever is difficult to move. It could be the cable and not the valve. If there is any a small bend in the wire, inside the cable, it will not move smoothly. Disconnect the cable from the valve and then see if the cable operates smoothly. If it does then the problem is the valve.

[Tomguy]

Sadly none of those 3 will fit. They are the 3 you DONT need. The stuck top right one is the directional control which probably means all the linkage is gummed up and in need of attention. The valves, I did on mine, without removing the core. I had room to pull them & do the O-Rings without pulling the core, it was tight but I did it that way!

Call the toll-free # to see if they have the directional valve you need. I don't remember if it's yellow or smoke colored.

[Carpenterman]

Just my opinion, but those two piece levers are a bad design. The "tab" piece of the lever is riveted to the base and over time the connection will fail.

When I replaced my levers, I used a one-piece lever that should hold up better. I forget what they are called, but if you search around you should be able to find them.

[cnm]

Originally Posted by Carpenterman

Just my opinion, but those two piece levers are a bad design. The "tab" piece of the lever is riveted to the base and over time the connection will fail.

When I replaced my levers, I used a one-piece lever that should hold up better. I forget what they are called, but if you search around you should be able to find them.

Thanks. While I would like to have an exact/original replacement, at this point with winter coming on, I will take something that will at least work (and hopefully look decent). Hopefully, I can find the one-piece levers you mentioned (or perhaps the PParts 1800 number will be able to suggest a fit).

[cnm]

Also, in case anyone else is researching this same issue, I cane across a good article regarding repair of heater control levers:

http://w108.org/articles/heaterlever1.pdf

[JMela]

W108/W109 Heater Levers | JaimeKop.com

Here's another.