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'71 W115 gas - amalgamated
I have so many questions about this car, and i thought it would be easiest to just get one thread going. Cuz i need the help!!
This weekend I thought I would tackle the brakes, pads and rotors. It was going fine until I got the front calipers off and realized that out of both front calipers on one piston was working! I worked and worked getting those pistons free and have three working good now, but I think one is still stuck. I think new calipers are on the shopping list now. Anyone have any suggestions? The car runs smooth once it's warmed up, the carb definitely needs help, as you can see in the pics. I don't think that tape is factory Sometimes while driving I get a pretty bad burning electrical smell in the cab, I don't see any smoke and I don't see any melted wires anywhere, under the dash, behind the center console, or under the hood. Any ideas? Below is the pics, hope you like. She's not the prettiest but I love her! If you see anything interesting or unusual please let me know. I know very little about this car and about old MB's.\ Thanks! |
#2
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The front calipers are easy to replace and can be found for about $60 each. The trouble with locating them is that the 230 was a rare car in 1971 in the US, so you need to find an interchange manual, or ask someone here, which brakes will interchange so you can order them. Few parts dealers have a listing for the 1971 230.
First: Detect brand. Either ATE or Bendix. Then check with Pelican, this site's sponsors. Last edited by Tomguy; 10-29-2012 at 02:30 PM. |
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Hi Idle, thanks for the info. This is actually a 220. I did call Autozone and they said they couldn't get them, although are listed in their computer. I looked on the existing calipers and did not see either ATE or Bendix, but the new pads and rotors I just got work.
Any idea what the two holes in the firewall, third pic, are for? AC? And that hose in the fourth pic? It is under the air box. |
#4
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The two holes in the firewall are drain holes. Water that enters the vent between the windshield and the hood drains out of those holes.
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Thought I'd add some more pics-
Anyone have any thoughts on how to track down the burning plastic/electrical/mystery smell? Also, the heater blower doesn't work. I understand this is pretty common and it's a real pain to get to the heater? I'm not so worried about the heat as I am the defrosting. Living where it rains most of the year, windows fog up really quick. Is there any way to tell if the blower is even getting power without digging all the way into the dash? Does anyone have a good step by step on how to get in there. I saw something about dripping ATF fluid, but don't even know how to get close enough to do that. My A/C blower(I think that;s what it is) doesn't work either. |
#6
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A/C blower is below the radio in the console. See that knob above the radio on the left? The one with the green arrow? Twist that knob to switch from heater fan to A/C fan. Rotating clockwise is the temp set for the A/C. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#7
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Quote:
Pull the wiper arms, then remove the vent cover between the windshield and the hood. You can then access the forward bearing on the heater fan. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#8
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Thanks Jim, When I turn the AC knob, the vacuum stuff moves, but no fan comes on. I can see the fan though.
What's the best thing for the forward bearing for the heater? ATF, what about something like PB Blaster or similar? |
#9
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There are fuseboxes near the passenger-side firewall under the hood that control the optional equipment like air-conditioning, power windows and the supplementary fan.
Make sure that all connections are wirebrushed clean of any corrosion--and that the fuses work as well. Then try your A/C again--it may work--good luck Tim Kraakevik kraakevik@voyager.net Four 114's, Four M110's |
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Thanks, I was wondering what those two fuses were for.
On another note, the RPM gauge started working on and off today! After driving it would shoot up a few times on the gas but always back to zero, than it would slowly start working while on the gas, but at idle back to zero, than if was fully working. But only after driving for awhile. Weird! Maybe if I keep on driving it everyday, everything will start working! I'd really like the radio to work, but that's lower down on the list. Is there a common reason why the radios stop working? |
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Sounds like you need to spend an afternoon with a brass brush and some emery cloth and, starting at the fuse boxes, commence to cleaning electrical connections. The contacts corrode over time and even though they may look fine there is enough resistance to cause havoc.
On my W114 I would spin the fuses to clean the contacts enough for it to work. It's a 41 year old car - enjoy it. |
#12
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In the first pic above, with the wires hanging down. The black box is the dash light dimmer. This is different looking than ones I have seen on ebay, which seem to have no plastic housing around them. Mercedes W114 W115 8 W108 W109 Speedo Dimmer Look | eBay
Any idea if this is correct? And thorsen, I am enjoying it!! more every day!
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Sold, but not forgotten: 1964 Ford F-100 "Maybelline" miss her 1960 Ford Falcon Ranchero 2 - 60's Econoline Scooby vans 1965 Plymouth Belvedere II, also missed Currently: 1971 220 1980 Honda CR250 1973 Yamaha DT-250 2003 SV-650 2000 Honda Odyssey and waaay too many motorcycles to list here |
#13
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When searching for parts online, you should give Rock Auto a try, I have found many wholesale closeout prices on parts including calipers and rebuild kits.
My calipers were nasty, had been sitting for 5 years before I got the car - I rebuilt all 4 - a bit of a pain but it's a hobby I guess. You should be able to get calipers cheap.
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1969 Model 220 gasoline Chassis: W115.010 |
#14
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I've tried freeing the pistons, PB Blaster and an air compressor, got all but one. I don't mind rebuilding the calipers, but not sure if the ones on there are beyond. We'll see. It's a daily driver so I'd like to have really good working brakes of course.
Planning on going after the electrical connections this weekend with some cleaner. And might try the rear calipers and see where they are at.
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Sold, but not forgotten: 1964 Ford F-100 "Maybelline" miss her 1960 Ford Falcon Ranchero 2 - 60's Econoline Scooby vans 1965 Plymouth Belvedere II, also missed Currently: 1971 220 1980 Honda CR250 1973 Yamaha DT-250 2003 SV-650 2000 Honda Odyssey and waaay too many motorcycles to list here |
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How do I get the cover off to get to the heater? I have the wipers off and I see little rivet looking things under the hood but not sure how to get it off and don't want to bend anything out if shape.
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Sold, but not forgotten: 1964 Ford F-100 "Maybelline" miss her 1960 Ford Falcon Ranchero 2 - 60's Econoline Scooby vans 1965 Plymouth Belvedere II, also missed Currently: 1971 220 1980 Honda CR250 1973 Yamaha DT-250 2003 SV-650 2000 Honda Odyssey and waaay too many motorcycles to list here |
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