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#1
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W115 300D 1976
Hello guy's i'm new on this forum.
At the end of the last summer , i bought a 1976 300D /8 , in quite a great condition for it's price. My first Mercedes soo far , but not my first diesel car. I've been on VW diesel forum for ages and been driving / working on diesel vw's for quite a while now. I've drove it almost 2,000 miles in less then one and an half month , before storing it for the winter , everything was perfect , until the vacuum pump failed. After reading and watching video on the internet , i've found out that the one way valve tend to fail , or in some cases , the rubber diapham. I've bough a rebuilt kit , upon it's arrival , i started to remove the pump... The piston inside the pump was broken in 2... After looking around to found a replacement pump , wich i've rapidly found out to be quite expensive i decided to look at other options , like an electric pump etc... Then , some of my volkswagen friend told me... why don't you put one of those OM606 engine in yours ? Soo here i am Lots of questions to ask , let's hope peachpart.com can help me OM606.910 VS OM606.961 , what's the internal differences ? Does the engine mounts of an OM606 (.910-.964) can fit on the chassis of an OM617 ? In my 300D i have an automatic transmission ( Any one know the tranny code? ) if i eventually swap for an OM606 , i would probably go for a transmission that originally came with an OM606 ( transmission code? ) If i want to put an manual gearbox on my 300D does an OM616 transmission would fit ? Are all OM606 IDI's engine ? Well , that's already a bunch of questions... enough for now I'm taking all those information , soo if i realise it's possible , i'll start looking for a whole car with an OM606 for sale... Collecting pieces slowly. Please pardon my bad english. Gérard. |
#2
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The .961 is turbocharged, so it is going to be built with oil cooling channels built into the pistons. There are bound to be a lot of other differences as well, but if this is the engine I am thinking of you may want to avoid it.
This engine was used in the W140 series, which is the S-class, and the early cars had a great deal of trouble with the connecting rods bending. The 606.961 engine is said to have been built to correct this flaw, but you might want to do some research on this if it is determined it will fit. There are also a number of electronic controls on these engines which would be difficult to install on a 115. If it were me I would just put a notice in the 'parts wanted' section of this board. Someone somewhere has a few of these engines sitting around and I am sure they would be willing to sell you a vac pump for far less than the engine swap you are considering. And the VW vac pump is also a good thing to look into. I use one of these in my shop to test vac systems. I just don't know if one would develop enough inches to do the work the pump in the Mercedes does. |
#3
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Yeh that's not going to work, you can't even put a om617 out of a w123 in these cars with out modifying the oil filter housing. It seems a really same to replace the engine when only the vacuum pump is bad. Post in the used parts wanted section and I am sure someone here has a used one. There's also a used one on eBay for 138$...probably can find one cheaper with the model and part number. By the way this model needs some strange maintenance and I hope you've done that before the 2000 mile trip...
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#4
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mets-y le 5,0 litres V8 gaz du 500 SEL qui se trouve chez Kenny a Laval It won't be diesel but more fun
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#5
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W115 300D 1976
Specifically, what comes to mind?
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#6
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Oil bath air filter.....never gets cleaned...
Oil in IP....never gets drain, topped off nor replaced... 2 piece oil filter....usually the reusable piece gets tossed.. Valve adjustment...normal... Transmission fluid....never gets done...normal for most cars.... The fuel filter is nifty.... Sure there are other things... Oh and you'll just dig the leather diaghram in the IP....when it tares....the engine goes vrooooooommmmmmmmm then BOOM
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#7
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W115 300D 1976
Hmm just did my trans fluid, valve adjust, fuel and air filters. Not sure about my oil bath air filter. Nor the oil in the IP. Should I have the IP rebuilt? So it doesn't go vrrrroooom. Then boom.
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#8
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W115 300D 1976
Seems like an impossible number of pitfalls. Just dumped $4k into my 76, how am I gonna sleep with all these potential problems remaining?! *Laughs
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#9
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Nah you can usually catch it, it tares rather slowly....when you notice the revs not dropping...you may want to check on that. It will also suck all the oil and diesel out of the ip....so you'll should notice that in the clear tube. I would really read about changing and checking the oel level in the IP......would also recommend cleaning the air filter with gas and adding oil to it.....
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#10
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W115 300D 1976
Cool man, I'm learning. I thought the IP got oil from the crankcase. As to adding oil to the air filter... Like seriously, just drizzle some delvac on it and allow it to soak up?
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#11
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Quote:
Here's a thread explaining changing it. 75 240D injection pump oil consumption - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum Oil bath instructions The element inside the air filter housing is cleanable and does not need replacement unless it is damaged. This is called an oil bath filter because the filter element sits in a small bath of engine oil at the bottom of the filter housing. Oil is mixed with the incoming air to "grab" fine dirt particles and the mesh screen removes the oil and dirt from the air before leaving the filter and entering the intake manifold. I know it is a little messy but has proven to be a very effective filtering device. Other industrial diesel engines have used this type for years. Just look at how dirty the oil gets at the bottom of the housing and you will see how effective it is. If you have diesel engine blow-by this style filter is works better because the oil would plug a paper filter - but in this case it just adds to the filtering mesh without restriction. To service, remove the filter element from the housing and place in a bucket filled with diesel fuel. Let it sit in the diesel for an hour or two while shaking it from time to time. Remove from the bucket and let drain. When reasonably dry pour engine oil through the mesh to coat all surfaces. Clean (wipe) the old oil out of the bottom of the housing. Note the fill mark near the bottom. Pour engine oil into the housing until it reaches the mark. Replace the element and the lid and you are ready to go for another 15,000 to 25,000 miles (depending on driving conditions). Pull the lid and inspect the level at every oil change. Add oil if required but DO NOT overfill.
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#12
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The W115 300D does NOT have an oil bath air filter. Also the OM617.910 engine that is in your W115 has a an injection pump which gets oil from the crankcase.
Mercedes was very proud of these improvements on the W115 300D, which also include the first diesel to start with a key, rather than the old pull knob like the W115 240D's 220D's and so on...
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#13
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W115 300D 1976
Grazie, tons to learn here.
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#14
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Okay I feel stupid now
Does it at least still have that horrible oil filter as the 240d? God I hated helping my friend with an oil change....slash bath...
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#15
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Nope, the W115 300D has a modern replaceable paper style filter
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
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