It's running, so I have new questions - w108 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

alabbasi · #16 05-12-2013, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandor

Hi Al,
>I'd pull a vac for a very long time and then charge it before replacing the compressor

That won't fix a bad clutch :-(

Yep, but that's a familiar sound when I've seen over charged systems. See if you can find an S6 compressor as a replacement. Will bolt right up, but made from aluminum and much lighter.

vandor · #17 05-12-2013, 03:06 PM

Al,

Do you know what the S6 came on? There is a place in MAnsfield called Universal AC and they have very good prices, but of course only list parts by application.
thanks,

Csaba

alabbasi · #18 05-12-2013, 03:17 PM

I don't know if it came on anything but instead is a light weight replacement for an a6.
Here is the website S6 Automotive Replacement Airconditioning Compressor and there are dealers in the DFW area.

vandor · #19 05-12-2013, 11:41 PM

Palolo,

> I would change out the rubber flex lines on both sides

All the brakes hoses were replaced 1.5 years ago not much before the engine blew. They look brand new. But I may replace them anyways, as they don't cost much and it's sure acting like something is not letting the fluid back.

>Sounds like you're on a roll. Post pics.

Yes, my son was with my aunt and uncle for a long weekend, so I had time to work on the car. Here are some pic: the interior with the Becker in place (not hooked up yet), the left manifold heatshield I just installed, the wingnut for the air cleaner for quick removal, and a pic my son took on the way home :-)

Csaba

vandor · #20 05-12-2013, 11:52 PM

I drove the car nearly 100 miles today. The left rear caliper is still dragging, when it does that it will actually make a noise. Does not drag enough for the engine to feel it, but heats up the wheel enough for me to feel that it's warm.
The engine runs well, unless I want to go over half throttle on the highway in which case it totally falls on it's face. I will be looking at D-jet diagnostic websites.
Also a few time it quit for a split second, like I would have turned the ignition switch off for 0.2 seconds. That will be fun to diagnose...
The fuel sender likely has a connection problem, as the needle jumps to zero when the car goes over bumps.
I replaced the heater levers this weekend and lost a few of the parts: two of the C-clips that hold the cables in place, and one of the barrel nuts that holds the vent cable to the heater levers. This is a weird piece that has a phillips head on top but the bottom is a threaded hole. Anybody have one?
Thanks,

Csaba

alabbasi · #21 05-12-2013, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandor

The engine runs well, unless I want to go over half throttle on the highway in which case it totally falls on it's face.

Are you sure that your timing is setup right? Also, the vacuum pod is a vacuum retard. If it's not working, then it may advance past the cylinder.

vandor · #22 05-13-2013, 12:48 AM

Hi Al,

The vacuum retard was working when I set the timing a few days ago. I set it 5 degrees more advanced than spec (Right at TDC, instead of 5 degrees ATDC).
I mean it falls on it's face that it acts like I totally took my foot off the gas.
Up to a point there is linearly more power, like it should have, then there is a point of hesitation, and past that absolutely nothing. However if I gun it from a standstill I can give it a lot more throttle and it will respond, but still won't run well at WOT. Of course I mostly drive gently as the engine is fresh. Cleaning the TPS is high on the to do list.

Here is a video I took this evening driving home. Nothing exciting, but it's running :-)

Driving 1972 Mercedes 280SEL 4.5 - YouTube

Csaba

Palolo · #23 05-13-2013, 02:18 AM

I think it just needs straight pipes and cherry bombs.

That'll make it run right.

Graham · #24 05-13-2013, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandor

Hi Al,

I mean it falls on it's face that it acts like I totally took my foot off the gas.
Up to a point there is linearly more power, like it should have, then there is a point of hesitation, and past that absolutely nothing. However if I gun it from a standstill I can give it a lot more throttle and it will respond, but still won't run well at WOT. Of course I mostly drive gently as the engine is fresh. Cleaning the TPS is high on the to do list.

Csaba

TPS is a good place to start.

Did you check to see if timing advances to 25-30deg when rpms are at 3000? Or if you don't want to go that high, at least say 20deg at 1500rpm. IOW, is centrifugal advance working?

Other thing to check might be fuel pump delivery rate. Pump with fully charged battery should deliver 1L per 30sec against 2bar pressure (collect at outlet of damper after FPR). If not, check pump, fuel filter, tank screen etc.

Tomguy · #25 05-13-2013, 03:08 PM

TPS has a full-throttle 10% enrichment on D-Jet. Floor it at ~75-80 on the highway. It should kick down and kick you back in the seat a bit, and blow black out the pipes. If it doesn't kick down, the kickdown switch may be bad. If it does, but it doesn't blow black, the TPS is probably off so you're not getting the 10% enrichment.

You may also have a plugged fuel filter or screen causing this.

vandor · #26 05-14-2013, 12:58 AM

Graham,
I will have to check both of those. I'm not afraid to rev it :-)

Tom, I'll check that too. BTW, I adjusted the kickdown rod's length and now it upshifts earlier, I like it a lot better this way.
Thanks,

Csaba

vandor · #27 05-14-2013, 11:37 PM

Today I removed the fuel pump's inlet hose to see if there is any junk built up before the pump. Nada. Then I removed the fuel lever sender for a peek into the tank. I was amazed at what I saw. The tank looks TOTALLY clean, brand new, inside. I even ran my fingers around the hole to feel if the top of the tank has any rust, but found none. Good news so far.
Wanted to check high rpm ignition advance, but I could not both rev the engine and watch the timing at the same time. My neighbor that I usually ask favors of was not home and I did not trust my 5 yo to be able to hold and rpm and not blow the engine up by accident :-)
I replaced the driver's door check, as the old one was broken.
bye,

Csaba

Tomguy · #28 05-15-2013, 10:45 AM

Oh, in regards to your sticking brake, if it turns out to not be the caliper it may be the master.

I just remembered that the master was going out on mine when my parents still drove it and my dad had to open the line at the master to relieve the pressure so he could make it to the mechanic's.

vandor · #29 05-20-2013, 01:33 AM

I messed some more with the AC today and it seems it may not be the compressor clutch that us faulty, but the AC unit is simply not turning it on (green light not lit). What threw me off was the the compressor is still turning very slowly - but only with the AC turned on. Like it's not getting full voltage? I would have thought a clutch is either on or off. When I apply voltage directly to the compressor it comes on, so today I dumped 2 cans in there and got the temps down to ~55F. I think it's still not fully charged, but I will wait a while to be sure there are no leaks (I just replaced the high side valve).

Later I took the TPS off and although it looks very clean on the inside it seems like there are several contacts that don't work. I tried cleaning them with a pencil eraser but still no go. I will buy some electronics cleaner tomorrow.

Csaba

Adv_rider · #30 08-11-2013, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandor

I messed some more with the AC today and it seems it may not be the compressor clutch that us faulty, but the AC unit is simply not turning it on (green light not lit). What threw me off was the the compressor is still turning very slowly - but only with the AC turned on. Like it's not getting full voltage? I would have thought a clutch is either on or off. When I apply voltage directly to the compressor it comes on, so today I dumped 2 cans in there and got the temps down to ~55F. I think it's still not fully charged, but I will wait a while to be sure there are no leaks (I just replaced the high side valve).

Later I took the TPS off and although it looks very clean on the inside it seems like there are several contacts that don't work. I tried cleaning them with a pencil eraser but still no go. I will buy some electronics cleaner tomorrow.

Csaba

How this went?