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Old 07-13-2013, 05:29 PM
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 15
W108 Subframe mount replacement - help needed

I can't get sufficient clearance to install the new subframe mount on my w108.

I've studied Mike Tangas article carefully on how to replace the subframe mounts but I'm still having an issue with lack of clearance to install the new mounts.

I'm working on the passenger side first.
I have both wheels off the ground and on stands.
I've removed the brake line and unscrewed the 2 leaf bolts on the frame side (right side while facing the front left wheel) -this also released the torsion bar.
I've unscrewed the top of the shock absorber and pulled it down.

In his article - he mentions having to remove the "front axle stabilizer or lateral support rod"
I'm not 100% sure if this is the steering rod (see pic2). I attempted to remove it by removing the one hex nut with the cotter pin that's closest to the wheel and facing downward- but I can't (don't know how) to remove that rod - it won't move up (which is what I expected). I'm not even 100% sure this is what's preventing it from dropping further - it feels like the engine is holding it back - I've already loosened both engine mounts.

I'm thinking of getting a spring compressor, letting the engine weight compress it then clamp it. This way when I jack up the frame the spring would still be compressed. I don't have much experience with springs - so I've very cautious about this method as I know it can be dangerous. But, I'm not actually removing the spring - if it expanded, it would still be contained within the lower control arm.

BTW - the old one separated so it was able to be removed without a clearance issue.


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W108 Subframe mount replacement - help needed-108pic1.jpg   W108 Subframe mount replacement - help needed-img_0575.jpg  
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:44 PM
twinockchef's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Savoy, Texas
Posts: 353
I have used a long crowbar, 5 foot, to push the subframe down. All you have to do is find the correct pivot point.
You could also disconnect the shock and the engine mount (one side at a time) but it could be a pain in the ass and problematic. You have suport the engine and sometimes it is difficult to reattach it. If you do go the enigine route you might as well replace the engine mounts.
Britton McIntyre

68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball'
70 280 SL
71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:09 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 475
In his article - he mentions having to remove the "front axle stabilizer or lateral support rod"
First picture, there is a bracket in the lower left corner. One of those bolts (the forward one) is attached to what is essentially a panhard rod that laterally locates the subframe, vs the other which is attached to a steering damper that looks like a shock absorber...

(The second pic shows a steering arm. I undid one side, or maybe both, I don't recall. I also undid the "engine shock absorber" up front by the radiator lower hose.)

And yes, as twinockchef mentions, a strategically placed crowbar or hammer handle will be quite useful in adding to your persuasiveness.

Good luck!
Looking for Early 108 windshield surround wood in decent-to-good condition.

Last edited by Palolo; 07-14-2013 at 03:10 AM. Reason: Added detail.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:01 PM
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 15
Thanks. Once I released that forward bolt for the rod you mentioned, and applied more leverage, it was able to clear. I was able to do the drivers side without much clearance issues.

Threading up the bolts is a pain. I'll give that another try tomorrow.

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