Anyone have problems post Pertronix install?

[Mint2Me]

I've posted a lot about driveabilty issues with my '67 230S, 4-speed. My mechanic installed a Pertronix Igniter and coil, did valve adjustment, new NGK plugs, new copper plug wires and plug caps from M-B Classic. New fuel pump, filter, gas tank too. Then we got so frustrated with the Zeniths, we tossed those for a Weber set up.

The stumble still persists. Mind you, the car runs 100% better then it did before we started but it is this little burp between 1,900 and 2,100 rpms that bugs the hell out of me. BTW, it doesn't occur with a heavy throttle, just a lighter or normal acceleration.

So now my mechanic thinks it's ignition. The only thing we haven't changed is the distributor. Could a worn out one cause something like is? Or is the Igniter the issue? Should I try a different electronic ignition? Or is it something simple like futzing with the timing?

[Adv_rider]

Pertronix been flawless for me.

[Palolo]

Just a thought if you plan to stick with the Pertronix: Might want to have the distributor rebuilt if you've gone through everything else.

The Pertronix may be new, but it is sitting on a 45 year old piece of kit, with bearings that haven't gotten any tighter since it left the factory. It could be loose/"floating" at that particular RPM, especially without decent load. Benz Dr on here rebuilds them, BTW.

(You could get a new distributor, but if you go that route, you may as well get the one that comes with a built-in ignition and selectable advance curves.)

[Mint2Me]

Originally Posted by Palolo

Just a thought if you plan to stick with the Pertronix: Might want to have the distributor rebuilt if you've gone through everything else.

The Pertronix may be new, but it is sitting on a 45 year old piece of kit, with bearings that haven't gotten any tighter since it left the factory. It could be loose/"floating" at that particular RPM, especially without decent load. Benz Dr on here rebuilds them, BTW.

(You could get a new distributor, but if you go that route, you may as well get the one that comes with a built-in ignition and selectable advance curves.)

I didn't know you could rebuild a distributor...is there a kit one buys that has all of the parts if i wanted to tackle it myself? If I just wanted to buy a new one all set-up what/where do I find one?

BTW, we love Hawaii. I spent years in the Corporate travel business and brought many groups to Honolulu and Maui. I worked with Mary Charles in case you might know the name...

We haven't been in quite some time but miss it.

[Palolo]

What a small world. I have worked with MCA in the past, at a former job with a local (to Hawaii) airline.

Info PM'd on distributor/rebuilding.

[meltedpanda]

Petronix will help with distributor wobble, but wont eliminate it if it is bad., also make sure the magnet is seated all the way down and not rising up.

BTW I love your daily emails from your Mint to ME site.. I am in search of a Porsche fixer upper and I look there every day, the ones lately are awesome but way out of my range

[pedrocamp]

Sometimes just taking the distributor apart and giving it a good clean and lube will help. I did this and installed a Pertronix a year ago on my 68 230 W110 and have not had to touch it since. Make sure the advance plate operates freely and the shaft bushes aren't sloppy.

[JMela]

Yeah, they're rebuildable. Here's a nice photo essay on a similar model's rebuild:

http://www.glenn-ring.com/010/index2.html


Dan Caron (Benz Dr. on this forum) has rebuild kits, do a search for his contact info.

[vandor]

I doubt that it's the ignition if it only happens in that rpm range. I think that it's too lean, but it could also be rich. Installing a wide band oxygen sensor could confirm that. I would try one step richer idle jets and see what happens. Webers run off the idle circuit well past idle, and 2000 rpm may be the point of transition to the main circuit.
This is when it pays to have a mechanic that has a lot of Weber experince, and also may have extra jets floating around.
bye,

[Mint2Me]

Originally Posted by vandor

I doubt that it's the ignition if it only happens in that rpm range. I think that it's too lean, but it could also be rich. Installing a wide band oxygen sensor could confirm that. I would try one step richer idle jets and see what happens. Webers run off the idle circuit well past idle, and 2000 rpm may be the point of transition to the main circuit.
This is when it pays to have a mechanic that has a lot of Weber experince, and also may have extra jets floating around.
bye,

A thoughtful possibilty. But I had the problem with the original Zeniths in the same spot. It is one of the many reasons we went to the Webers.

[Mint2Me]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

Petronix will help with distributor wobble, but wont eliminate it if it is bad., also make sure the magnet is seated all the way down and not rising up.

BTW I love your daily emails from your Mint to ME site.. I am in search of a Porsche fixer upper and I look there every day, the ones lately are awesome but way out of my range

Thanks for your input and comment about Mint. You should let me know what you are looking for in a Porsche. We don't usually post projects but we see them everyday.

[Mike D]

Does the problem only occur under a load or can you get the stumble to appear in neutral?

If you can get it to happen in neutral then connect a timing light and see if you are getting a "jumping" of the timing mark at that occurrence.

"No jump"? Quit looking at the distributor as the problem.

[Palolo]

It was the distributor as suspected... Zenith Carb Issue - What would you do?