Am I crazy?
 

Usually with a thread titled this way, the poster says they're looking to buy something crazy and do crazy things to it, like buy a 600 Grosser for $20k then think it can be restored for under $10k. However, I'm not that kind of crazy. Instead, I'm taking all next week off work and going to address a bunch of things on my w109. Keep in mind I'll have access to a full shop w/ lift, etc.

I'm curious, do you think this can all be done with 5 days to complete all work? So far the parts have been order and arrived. Of course other stuff always comes up, but I think I'm being thorough. What say you?

The list thus far:
1. finish restoring the wood - so far it's been stained, just needs clear and reinstall
2. heater levers and valves
3. master cylinder
4. brake pads
5. timing chain
6. radiator reseal (leaking at top seam where tank meets core)
7. fix radio (won't turn on 95% of the time) - any ideas why? I'm hoping it's a ground issue...
8. R&R idle air valve to clean up
9. R&R A/C compressor - any ideas how long?
10. shifter bushings inside column and at trans (I have column shift car)
11. address lack of kickdown - I'm thinking the switch and/or solenoid needs cleaning?
12. fuel sender gasket
13. fix misfire - has new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Probably something loose
14. subframe mounts
15. R&R front bumper assy.
16. replace all hard and rubber vacuum hoses under hood
17. oil & filter change
18. slightly tighten hand brake and free hand brake switch so light illuminates

The good bad news is that I found out yesterday I have a big phone interview next week that will take several hours to prep for. Thanks Al again for your help with that.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions to hopefully make these days efficient, I am of course all ears. Naturally I'll tie a lot of the jobs together to make best use of my time.

Best Regards,

David

I see no allotted time for beverages so technically the time is not considered "off work"..

I believe you are optimistic considering the amount of oddball, unconnected things you are attempting but I'm pulling for you.

Yea that's a lot of stuff to address in one session. It's a lot more enjoyable if you can spread it out but I guess you need to take advantage of the time. AC compressor is another catagory in itself if you need to flush the system, replace the TXV, dryer, etc-
I would concentrate on a few major areas...

Maybe handle the easier items first, the things you're 100% certain you can complete. Don't start another until the task is complete. Prioritize jobs in a similar area so you don't have to do them twice (I.e. heater valves while the dash wood is out).

Also, do your interview prep before car repair. If not, you'll be rushing through these repairs in order to stay on track and mistakes will happen. Good luck!

Dude, just buy a 600. :P

A few thoughts;

#1: start that first, since you'll need time to dry between coats and sides. The clear should be spar varnish, and do the back sides too.
#3: do before #4 for sure. Make sure you have all new flex hoses, too.
#5: Are you planning to rebuild the distributor too (paging Dr. Benz)? If not, get a 123-ignition, as you're just dropping in a very worn part on a new timing chain.
#6: send it to a rad shop
#9: for close to or less than that cost, you might consider a Sanden rotary
#13: see #5
#14 - 18: knock 'em out!

Good luck!

That's just my .02 based on how long it takes me to do things on my 108...

Pat

Palolo and Jmela, you're right. For instance, I'm starting the wood Sunday but don't expect to have it "done" until Wed when it can go back in the car. At that time I'll do levers and heater valves.

How do I know that I need the distributor rebuilt? The centrifugal advance is right on the factory specs. Do I need any parts to do this is or is just tear down, clean, then reassemble?

As for the compressor, I already ordered a rebuilt A6 that cost something like $90. For that little, I saw no reason to start customizing A/C components when I can get plug-and-play for so little. I think you'd agree the weak point in these A/C systems isn't the compressor, it's probably the condenser and lack of good electric fans in front.

The radiator is going to the shop. It's going there the day I do the timing chain since I'll need the fan off plus it will give me more room to spin the crank. I even got a new visco clutch so the car should stay nice and cool, like the interior, for my drive back to TX. I'm doing all this work in IN where I grew up. Free 6 pack and lunch for anyone who wants to join me in N. Indiana!

Last but certainly not least, I'm more worried about the interview. I have a bunch of studying to do for it although it's only going to be a 30 min. phone call. It's a mock sales call selling something I need to know a lot more about.

Thanks a lot for your help guys,

David

Just a hunch based on everything else being new, including cap and rotor. The distributor bushings could be worn, causing timing to jump around some, enough to manifest itself, yet not be "visible" to the eye.

Consider that the distributor doesn't get much lubrication and is probably original, and if you're putting on a new timing chain, why not make sure the entire system is to spec? Try PMing "Dr Benz". I think he is in IN or MI.

Likely apples and oranges, but Mint2Me went and changed everything out but still had a misfire: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3191756-post36.html


I agree. I've pulled out my condenser, and will replace with a parallel flow unit that is slightly wider, along with a new (thinner, cover larger area) fan setup. eBay has them pretty reasonable.

Good luc with the interview too.

Pat

#13-misfire
 

Since you have the first generation Bosch D jetronic electronic fuel injection, you have "trigger points" in the base of the distributor that tell the injectors when to fire. These tend to get contaminated with oil seeping up the distributor shaft on older distributors, and this can cause "misfires"/rough running. If they are not too worn, they can be cleaned up and reused...but you still have the problem of subsequent oil contamination. Short of getting a new distributor (which you can't...no longer available), my solution was to fabricate a disc out of absorbent material that fits over the distributor shaft below the trigger points and the O.D. being the same size as the interior of the distributor housing. A cut through the disc from the center hole to the outside will enable you to fit the disc without disassebling the distributor. This will absorb quite a lot of oil before the trigger points get contaminated again, and unless you plan on driving your car a whole lot, it should solve the problem for several years.

My eye skipped right over the "Past Vehicles" line, and I was just about to say "Whoa, what a fleet!"

I almost ended up with a RR Silver Shadow I, but passed on it for the time being. A Cloud may be on the horizon, but this being Hawaii, it may be just be an illusion.

:P

the book says to check your dwell at different RPM ranges. It should never deviate more than 3 degrees. If it does, you need a distributor.

-CTH