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#1
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'72 280se - Painting Trunk Interior
Hello Guys:
I am in the middle of prepping the trunk of my 280se to get it ready to be painted with some 3M rubberized paint (stuff in the spray can). What area(s) of the trunk of the trunk came painted or should I paint with the rubberized stuff? This is what I am thinking of: Sides - Paint up to the bottom edge of the chrome beltline trim. Rear - Paint up to the bottom of the rear tail light clusters and up to the edge of the trunk loading lip. Front - Up to where the flat trunk area meets the first vertical edge. I am also thinking of spraying as much of the curved wheel arches as I can reach with the spray can. Last question. What is the round plastice thing in the center of the trunk floor? Should I paint over it or mask it? Thank you. |
#2
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The round plastic thing on the center is the access to the fuel tank sender. I don't think you should paint over that.
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1976 280C SLOWER DRIVERS KEEP TO THE RIGHT. DRIVE RIGHT PASS LEFT |
#3
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Thanks Tomas7, I will tape that area up before painting.
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#4
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Are you painting with the rubberized stuff to be more protective against scrapes? Regardless, it's not "correct" for the car so however you choose will make no difference really, just whatever you feel works best for your uses. The Plasti-dip type stuff can be peeled off eventually as long as you use several coats so it's thick enough, so if you use a similar product it won't be as big of a deal to remove later if you decide to.
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1962 220SE W111 Coupe, 2nd owner http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../SideSmall.jpg The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs) official website The Coupe Group on Facebook MotoArigato: Roadworthy News & Humor |
#5
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I wouldn't spray the lower trunk area with the rubberized coating. There are drains in the lower fender area which are easily clogged. Clean, treat, prime and a good painting is what I would do.
Above the trunk deck line, it would probably be fine. You should have pasteboard interior cards which hide the coating.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#6
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I would also make sure that there is no moisture trapped in the body-panel-sides (outer crevice) of the wheel arches. You don't want to trap any moisture when blowing rubberized paint in to spaces you can't really see. Mke sure the coating isn't porous.
Good luck with it. Pat
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Looking for Early 108 windshield surround wood in decent-to-good condition. |
#7
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Thanks guys for the helpful replies. I think I will go with the paint route so it is more period correct.
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